Check the gap on the side of the door. Most likely the top will be wider than the bottom. There is a bulliten for several models. Call a service/parts dealer. Give them your model and serial number they can check the bulliten and order the correct hinge kit. The hinges and receivers will need to be replaced. Both must be replaced to correct problem. Not a difficult repair. If no one will hepl you, respond back and I can check the bulliten and get you a part number. And can order and ship you a part if necessary.
Your oven ignitor has gone out. This is located under the pan in the bottom of the oven. This is held in with 2 screws in the back portion of the pan. This will expose the ignitor and then 2 screws take it out. Replace this and this will fix it. very common problem
well the person at frigidaire was talking about caustic chems like easy off elements should be ok get as much of the silicone and foil out as you can then run self clean only prob i see is the oder the oven wilkl self clean for three hours send the misses and kids to a movie get you a six pack of brew sit on the front proach depending on where you live and let er rip then lets see what to do from there how much stuff you got stuck on there
These doors have springs to shut them. If you can figure out how to get to the springs usually you will see that one is either unhooked or unattached at one end. If broken on the end bend another hook into it and add a pice of wire long enough to make up the broken difference.
The model number should be posted on a nameplate near the oven door opening and/or lower drawer opening (if equipped). Sometimes the model number is located along the back of the operator console. You will need this model number in order to ensure you are getting the correct manual as all appliances are not the same with operation and features. Go to geappliances.com and click on the "Service and Support" link. On the next page is a heading for "Use and Care Manuals". Click on the link, type in your model number, and there should be a manual available for you to download in .pdf format (Adobe). I hope this helps you.
The oven features on electric ranges are controlled by the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. Commonly referred to as the clock assembly. Each function (bake or broil) is usually controlled by a separate circuit. If you have installed the new element, and can rule out the possibility that you may have received a defective part, the EOC may be a likely culprit. Before you go tearing the console apart, however, double check your wiring on the element you just replaced and take a resistance check of the element. Measure on the element terminals with the wires removed. The reading should be in the K ohm range (resistance will vary between manufacturers). Then measure from one of the element terminal to the outer shell of the element. If it reads a short (0 ohms) you have a grounding problem and probably have a bad element. If you are confused by any of this, please post back with any questions you may have. I hope this helps you.
PS There should be a tech sheet inside the operator console to assist with troubleshooting.
The same thing with mine. I took apart the door today and found the hinges a little bent. I think it should be ok to bent them the opposite way a little with some mole grips......and then I must remember not to move the stove out for cleaning by the oven door handle again (oops). Door comes off (unlock hinges and lift up). undo 4 screws on the bottom edge and then two on the inside of the door handle then it comes apart - beware as it's heavy. The hinges themselves come off with two screw each.
the lock mechanism is acting up. if they fail they can give the board a door locked indication through one of the microswitches but not be locked. you can find the assembly under the cooktop and at the back of the unit with a rod going up to the actual latch you may be able to touble shoot it from the back without taking the top off
You can try turning the power off for a couple minutes then back on but this is typically caused by a stuck key or a faulty control board. Either way you're looking at needing a new control board.
Hope this helps.
THERE SHOULD BE A KNOB SELECTON ON THE MAIN TEMPERATURE CONTROL OR SOME HAVE A SWITCH. OR .I DO NOT KNOW WHERE IT IS ON FRIGIDARES ... AND PLEASE DONT HOLD IT AGAINST ME.
I WILL SAY THAT ALL SELF CLEANING STOVES DO IS TURN BOTH YOUR BROILER AND OVEN BURNER ON HI AND "BURNS OFF THE SPILLAGE OR DIRT" IN AN ALOTTED TIME.
AS A REPAIR MAN I NEVER ADVISE USING THEM ... THEY CAUSE ALOT OF HEAT AND DONT REALLY WORK ALL THAT WEEL IF THERE IS ANY SIGNIFICANT SPILLAGE TO CLEAN ANYWAY.
Send it back and get the correct one. It can't be the same part number if the connections are different. Your old one may have features that his new one doesn't. The one less wire may just be a shared return, but the stove might be needing individual returns. If it is an updated replacement (the listing sometimes says 'compatible with' or 'replaced by', or 'alternative part'), it should come with a wiring schematic.
Please always include full 'make MODEL (what it is)'.
Fixya Expert 'Jorgie the Appliance Guy' will have the answer if it is a shared return but he will need the model number. Edit your post and add it.
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No orifice for the oven jet? All work on gas appliances needs to be done by a certified gas technician. Somewhere, normally just behind the knob, there is an adjusting screw (certainly for hobs). The flame must be high enough that it can't blow out. The standard test is the slam the oven door, with your kitchen windows closed and then again with them open. Help in the link, but also the pressure from the tank _at_ the range should be checked.
https://www.google.com/search?q=oven+flame+adjustment
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