1994 Mazda 626 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Keep in midn that is a '94 and it probably has a lot of miles on it, so the first thing I suggest is to give the throttle body and Bypass Air Control Valve (BAC) a good cleaning. This will, very often, cure many idle problems. Other things to check for are vacuum lines and the large air hose between the Air Flow Meter and intake manifold for cracks. Also check the PCV valve and hoses.

If everything is okay, then I would have to look at the secondary ignition system, distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.

Hope helps; keep in touch and tell us news..

youre a tooth out.always turn motor over by hand two revolutions,by hand,and recheck timing,before starting

I once owned one of these! Great car [at least I thought so] The biggest thing to look for when replacing the drive belts is to make sure all the pulleys turn freely and are in line, and that the belts are tightened properly then rechecked again after a day or so of driving once they have stretched and worn in a bit. Now if you are talking about the timing belt then I would replace the belt, the tensioner, and the idler pulley all at the same time as you DO NOT want the belt to fail or skip as this is an interference engine and the cylinder head and valves will be damaged if the camshaft gets far enough out of time in relation to the crankshaft. Most parts stores will sell you a "timing belt kit" which has all these parts in it and it's well worth the extra cost. Just a note about timing belts: It's easy to forget that they have a limited life span and should be replaced every 60,000 - 100,000 miles [depending on the make and model] to help prevent the very, very expensive damage I mentioned earlier.

? Are you talking about your A/C I had a Mazda 626 and from experiance I can tell you if you haven't had the A/C gas Checked/topped up you are running the risk off seezing the A/C pump. The lubricant for the pump is in the A/C gas - No Gas - No Lubricant. Mine seized on the motorway at over 80 at the time I didn't know what is was so loads of blue smoke and a squealing noise, not good.
The car might be shaking a bit as the pump is not turning correctly or you have already knackered a bearing - hope this help

If your vehicle cranks but won't start; you first need to check the vehicle's fuel and ignition systems to ensure the vehicle is getting spark and fuel. If there is no fuel or spark you will have to further diagnose that particular system. If you have neither; the ECM is probably faulty. If the vehicle was running and suddenly quit and wouldn't start back, then the timing belt could also have broken.

1993 Mazda MX-6 2.5 liter DOHC V-6




Hope helps with this (remmeber comment and rated this).

If it was running before firing order shouldnt be an issue, more of a tune up issue, say if a coil failed or some other ignition or fuel delivery system part failed.

you will need speacial tools for this!! Its not worth the repair, just find a used compressor and replace it. Hopefully this helps!

Unfortunately, there's only 2 causes of this. One the computer is located under the heater core( center of dash) & it's leaking on the computer. Replace the heater core & pcm(computer). Or it needs a transmission. Sorry for the bad news,.

In the gas tank. Also referred to as the "fuel sending unit" Which is the pump, screen and sender (float that sends the signal to the gas gauge) If it just stopped working get under the car and hit the tank a few times with a hammer. You don't need to hit it hard. Usually a few whacks will free up the pump and it will work again for a bit. At least long enough to get to a repair shop and save the tow cost.

The lowest pulley that a belt goes around is the harmonic balancer.

Hi,
You will want to take the car to a qualified technician. This way they can find out if and where a leak may be. Then repair it and refill the freon. If you have any other questions let me know.
Thank you,
Lee

check ignition coil it must have been fried thats why it doesnt give supply to the spark plugs

Question Posted by Asker under the 1994 Mazda for a 1993 Mazda.

Click on the following: free, direct Link. It has several Diagrams including the Serpentine Belt Diagram for your 1993 Mazda 626 2.5L DOHC V6. It has the 2.0L DOHC 4-Cyl Diagrams as well as Instructional and Directional Diagrams that will help you.

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1993/make/mazda/model/626/1993_mazda_626_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

What are you torquing down?

pull the dash cluster out and make sure you wear a static resitstor band around your wrist for discharging and static electricity if you dont you may blow the cluster then replace the small bulbs on the back of the cluster making sure to keep away from touching the electical pad on the back hope that helps.

its held in place by 2 bolts (on the transmission) you well see the bolts on top of the plate the device is on.. remove the bolts, remove the device ,,..

New water pump.... new timing belt.... new radiator cap... but the idiot mechanic has not done the obvious.

1. Change the coolant thermostat located under the hose fitting on the manifold where the top radiator hose connects to the engine.

2. Check the radiator fan switch for proper operation. When in doubt change it out. A $30.00 switch isn't worth risking a complete engine overhall.

3. Do a compression check on the engine to make sure all cylinders have close to the same amount of comression. Overheating can cause head gaskets to weaken and fail. Performing the compression check would verify that both the cylinder head, valves and head gasket are still in good working order.

4. (Applicable only to cars with a belt driven fan) Does the fan have a fan clutch? I did not look it up yet. If it does then the fan clutch can also be a problem if it is not turning the fan when the engine is hot.

For cars with an electric fan the switch in step 2 applies as does checking the fan for proper operation.

5. Fire your mechanic! If there is one thing I hate it is a mechanic that only does half the job vs checking out all possible causes! Your car should have never left the shop in a state that it could over heat AGAIN. Time to have a chat with she service manager and the service managers' boss! They owe you some free labor!

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

alternators only provide current to any operating system,,,starter is what cranks motor over

My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.

I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway. You may want to Print the Diagrams for future use.

CLICK on the following LINK. It has the Belt Diagrams you will need.

If you would: Before Clicking: Let me know if this helped you, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Again my apologies...
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1994/make/mazda/model/626/1994_mazda_626_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm