20 Most Recent Husqvarna Lawn Tractor 48" Deck, 23 Hp, Model# Yth2348 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Drop mower deck and have a look.
Both rods run to the rear on the right side.
Possibly something interfering.

Yes take it to the dealer and have them check the pump since it uses hydraulic motors, it sounds very much like the pump is running backwards or is it possible the blades are on upside down

Hello porkeybyrde3:

You can Use the Breakdown to See if a Component is Missing or Assembled Wrong.
You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Mower at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM (MTD) and Enter the Model Numbers. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Now you can Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View.
>>If you cannot Locate the Model, then
>>Send me the Model Numbers Off the Mower, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers are Usually Located Under the Seat on a Sticker or Tag on the Body.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Ok, this has happened to me before and it was a broken deck engagement wire. On some models the deck engagement wire which leads to the deck from the pto engagement lever is routed on a critical bend. Because the wire in the casing is bending at such an odd angle it can ware through the casing and break. If this happens it will cause the deck break to come on and stop the deck belt from turning in the pulleys. Check to see if this wire has broken. If so you can order the new part from a small engine mechanic or from the vendor or manufacturer. When you hook up the new on route the wire same as the old, but make sure that it does not have such a tight bend in the casing. hope this helps :)

Use a press, your local garage or engineering shop should help.

Most likely you need a new drive belt, it's slipping.

It probably isn't! Check the cable.

Not sure what is going on here, these machines do not have a clutch as such, it will be a idler pulley that is pulled onto the back of the belt to tention it thus taking the drive to the hydro unit, so it may be a simple idler pulley replacment, or slave pulley replacement, with the hydro in neutral have somebody sit in the seat and work the pedal whilst you look under neath and watch what is happening.

here is a diagram that will hopefully help you. let me know if it helps, or if you need further assistance. thanks.

Most likely a bad seat switch

it is droping to half power to stop the motor from over heating check the water level and oil top them up.

if it is making a clicking noise then it is getting power to the starter. that is good. saves a lot of time. make sure the battery if fully charged. the wires on the battery terminals and the solenoid are know to get corrosion on the. be sure to take apart and clean with sandpaper to get a good connection. if it still does the same thing. the starter may be bad, or the valves may need adjusted. you will find videos on you tube that show how to do this. i hope this gives you an idea of how to get it going. good luck

Have you tried to jump across the solenoid? It could be different things causing your problem. It could be a broken wire, the switch, the solenoid or even as simple as a blown fuse. What have you tried?

SOUNDS LIKE THE REAR END LOCKED UP I HAVE SOME USED ONES IF YOU TELL ME WHAT THE MODEL NUMBERS ARE FROME UNDER THE SEAT I NEED ALL THE NUMBERS AND LETTERS AND ILL FIND YA ONE

the tie rod between the two wheels has broken or come off the steering rod works on that rod or on one wheel which is connected to the other wheel by that tie rod.

As for whining sound I believe this normal. The purging instruction using the bypass valve ingaged on low engine running. Next with the bypass disengaged followed by the fwd with fast breaking and or rev with fast breaking actions to get the wheels to turning and getting better responce takes time. This does take some time to do - in my case 15 minutes or more. My tractor had 65 hours on it before it showed signs of not pulling a slight hill. I had to remove the transaxle and put in 50 wt. motor oil and with the purging I was able to bring new life back to this tractor. The original 30wt. motor oil is fine for a brake in oil and I did drain it and took the bottom cover pan off and cleaned the metal particals on the magnets and cleaned the filter. These transaxle are sealed but have a vent plug at the top of the case. That little plug is hard to get off with out damaging it. My tractor whins in forward and reverse but has good hydrostatic power now. So I say the whin is good!

Drive belt broken or slipped of pulleys, hydrostatic drive filter(s) plugged. Should be one or those, Roger. Follow the drivebelt with your hand (disconnect battery to be safe) and see if it hasn't slipped off the engine drive pulley, idler pulleys, or axle pulley. If you tractor is hydrostat, may be time to replace filter.

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I think this is it but the model year is needed to be sure. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Husqvarna-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-YTH2348/3199/1509200/P0703088/00005