20 Most Recent Husqvarna Lawn Tractor 48" Deck, 23 Hp, Model# Yth2348 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Most riding mowers have a kill switch wired to the seat. It kills the engine if the rider falls off or gets off the seat. Check to make sure this switch is not shorted or faulty. Replace if necessary. Hope this helps. Bob

Make sure clutch pedal on the left is all the eay down. Check fuse. Raise hood and it should be either mounted on the right side of the frame. When you turn the key to the on position does the hour meter come on? If not it's probably the fuse.

Try changing the fuel line as there has been a few cases where the inter liner of the fuel line on the carb complaint systems collapsing causing this problem. Also check fuel cap rubber seal if it has deteriorated and parts of it may be blocking fuel flow from the tank. An additional thing to try is leave the ful cap loose to if it is venting problem.

Valve clearances will also effect the decompression valve in the engine, if they are too wide the valve lifter will not work and the battary will not have enough energy to crack the engine.

Bad belt, it's tensioner or transmission arrangement.

starter brushes bad, replace starter

What it sounds like is a lose connection or bad ground cable. Check both battery cable leads red or positive to the starter. If you have a meter or test light check voltage at the starter. The check black or ground cable from Battery to point of ground. If rust or poor connection clean cables. Not knowing make model year. Look once you have all connections clean for a main fuse. This could be spade or glass type. What your describing is lack of charging of batter [lose of power slowly] and not able to start bad connection.

If they were really bad, dry and about to fall out they would. Grab each of the pulleys and give it a good wriggle, if you can feel any movement at all your bearings are shot. With the belt of turn each of the pulleys by hand, if any notchiness is felt the bearings are cactus. If any noise is heard while you are turning each of the pulleys the bearings are past there use by date. All bearings should rotate smooth and silently.

Bad pulley bearings or twisted cutter deck

Depending on the year - here is the link for manual that will show the diagram

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/usa/2009/I09000/I0902011.pdf

If you have any questions, please call John at 860.233.5439 x222 or visit www.ButlerPower.com

The bagger installs by using the supplied bracket on the rear of the tractor. Mount the frame of the bagger onto the bracket. then connect the discharge tubes using the spring connecters. Flip open the lid and slide the bags into the frame.

check wiring for a bad ground or a short to ground

Go Here: Husqvarna YTH2348 96043005901 Riding Lawn Mower PartsI have no connection with erepair but I buy parts from them all the time. good prices, excellent service. Great for the DIY.

You only have one magneto on the flywheel, this is how any flywheel is designed because both cylinders can't fire at the same time, so why have two magnetos to fire one coil? Anyways, the magnetos on flywheels from my experience hardly if EVER go bad, and coils today have so many capacitors and resistors and diodes inside that even the slightest amount of heat soak from a poorly maintained engine can fry the circuitry and fault a coil in a flash. If you replaced te coil and it won't work, try to swap the coils around and see if the one you know works won't fire on that non-working cylinder, that way you can be sure the new coil is not defective, which I've seen many times as well. When it's running, do you pull the plug off the dead cylinder and see if it fires, then repeat the procedure on the live cylinder with the dead coil installed on the plug? Will it fire at all? Try to disconnect the kill wire from each coil, then start the engine and see if both cylinders fire now. I have seen some engines, as an example some briggs vanguard v-twins that have a diode right in the middle of the kill switch wire. I don't know why it's there, probably to deal with spikes in current or something, I'm not that great with electrical I just know how a simple ignition system works and I know if one coil fires that plug, the other one should too. As I said, things from china areive defective all the time, it wouldn't surprise me if that coil is defective or if it runs with the kill wire disconnected from the coils, then there may be a diode blown in the line or you have a chafed area of insulation that's grounding to the book somehow. Pull the kill wire and fire it up, then swap coils, you'll be able to tell what's wrong once you rule out one or the other, it's just a simple process of elimination for a simple problem once it's explained to you. I'm sure you'll figure it out and be back running in no time I you attempt my suggestions!

You may just need the kingpin bushings....under the rubber protector on top of the kingpin,there should be a snapring holding the axle in place .

I have worked on SO many lawn tractors over the years so I feel comfortable telling you this is probably normal. These aren't precision machines, they're stamped metal decks and mostly plastic machines so there won't be adjustments like your car or a commercial machine might have. There may be one or even one tie rod adjustment for each side, but these are all built with a price point in mind as well as the idea that they are big, cumbersome, not easily controlled, imprecise machines so they're designed to have a high positive camber, (the tops of the wheels angle out farther than the bottoms,) and a LARGE amount of toe-in, (the fronts of the wheels point in at eachother), to assist in maneuvering these cheap hunks of Chinese quality. I really wouldn't worry about it, just get the wheel as centered and straight as possible, anything as far as toe or camber past an inch I'd worry about something being bent MAYBE or jut out of "alignment" but if they, when sitting still, are all approximately less than an inch in either of these directions and close to some sort of symmetry, then that's just normal and these other posters are just making you more worried than you need to be. These tractors support their weight, a close to 90lb engine, your weight, are rear wheel drive, have to move and cut grass simultaneously, AND steer, so the geometry is pretty exadderated to make turning and maneuvering easier. This is why they come with steering wheels

before you turn off the key pull the throttle down to idle and wait a few seconds give the gas a chance to burn out of the cylinder

Yes SAE 30 is the recommended oil for B & S engines. You can find it on amazon for good price. here: Amazon com oil 30w . Hope this was helpful. cheers

The blades are very carefully made so that they slightly overlap. This is why on some machines when you turn one way there will be a strip as described. If you ground the ends shorter, they will not overlap, and this is your problem. You should only sharpen the lower cutting side [NOT THE END] of the blade. Make sure that they are evenly ground back, not more near the outside as this will result in a curved cut with low centres and slight ridges in the middle of the blade paths. Also important to accurately balance them. Place nail in vise and put blade so the exact centre of the hole is on the nail, splined blades can be difficult. Maybe necessary to get ring of tube to fit inside spline. Grind off low end until they hang level.

Most hook to right front frame, even with front wheel