20 Most Recent Husqvarna , No.455 Rancher, 20" Gas - Powered Chainsaw Questions & Answers

There is a number of things an engine needs to run,clean fuel getting to the engine, a good spark, adequate compression and an air tight engine, if there is an issue with any of these the engine will struggle to run, so remove the muffler and take a look at the condition of the piston face through the open port, any sign of scuffing and the cylinder will need to be removed and the damage assessed, check there is a spark at the plug by removing the plug and resting against the cylinder, crank the engine to check for a spark, does the plug get wet with fuel after attempting to start, if not we have fuel starvation, possibly stale fuel, blocked fuel filter, broken fuel hose, a pressure test of the engine is more a shop check.

I have a very low time Rancher 55. It is hard to start when it sits for over two months. It is easy to pull with the spark plug out. The solution for me was to dribble 2-cycle oil into the cylinder and pull it about 7 times with the plug out. When I put the plug back in, it starts easily

This is not good, and not easy to fix, the bolt is an interference fit in the composit crankcase, there is a square on the back of the bolt that fits into a moulded opening on the inside of the tank, if this square has destroyed the bolt will just turn, all you can try to do is increase the interfernce fit in the tank and hope this will hold enough to tighten the nut, to do this drain the oil tank, tap the bolt from the ouside pushing it into the tank, shake the bolt out of the filler hole, take a centre punch, and punch the shank of the bolt where it sits in the tank, this will slightly increase its diameter, if you have a frendly engineer, have him knurl the shank, make a small mark on the thread at what will be top dead centre ( this will aid getting the squre in the correct position ) thread a piece of thin wall tubing, or thin wire through the bar hole and out through the filler hole, connect it to the thread of the bar bolt, and carefully pull it in, once the thread comes though to the outside of the bar pad, turn it with your mark at top dead centre, now use a nut and a spacer to pull the bolt in, you could use some adhesive on the shank as well, sorry this is a bit drawn out, but it would realy need a new tank.

what are you working on dude ? you failed to tell us the make, model and item you have removed the clutch from, then replaced........ likely - either it didn't work before you started, or it is now defective due to your inadequate attempt to fix it..... suggest - get a competent repairman to look it over and fix it.

You need certain things to be correct for the engine to run, clean fuel getting to the cylinder, a spark ( occurring at the correct time ) and the machine to be mechanically sound. So remove the spark plug, is it wet? if not remove the hose and filter from inside the fuel tank, remove the filter and replace, if the plug is wet, then place the plug against the cylinder ( away from the open plug hole ) crank the engine, is there a spark? if not replace the ignition unit, if there is a spark, remove the muffler and check the condition of the piston face through the open port, any signs of scuffing or melting the saw has seized and will require stripping to assess the condition.

a few of things here, the pick up pipe can get kinked thus slowing the oil flow down, the filter on the end of the pick up pipe may be partly blocked,if you are using non fling oil and the outside temperature is very cold you may need to thin the oil to allow a better flow, finally you can modify the pump shaft, this is done by increasing the angle on the end of the pump piston ( the bigger the angle the bigger the throw of the shaft and the more oil is pumped ) this is a final resort and has to be done with care, you have to remove the shaft from the pump body and hold against a grind stone to increase the angle

The wire linkage has a short Z bend in one end this hooks into the throttle lever from the outside, the other end has a long loop this goes into the trigger arm from the outside, you will need to twist the top of the trigger arm slightly to allow the linkage to go into the hole in the trigger arm.

Yes, no problem

Go to partstree.com type in model no then go to crankcase and you will see fuel tank vent and location
on diagram. Be sure to check your fuel line in tank to make sure it is not broken.

indicates incorrect length chain in use the adjustment slots should be about 1/3 when fitted moving close to 1/2 when adjusted the correct adjustment is when the chain in the center of the bar is lifted up the bottom segments of the chain are still in the bar groove make sure that the oiler hole is not blocked from saw dust and chips

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No spark could be a number of issues. Break in ignition wire, faulty switch, incorrect timing space, faulty ignition module, bad sparkplug or the spark plug lead. The running problem is most likely a fueling issue, check the fuel lines, filter and make sure fuel is getting into the cylinder.

The starter pawls are held on with small springs. If the springs are broken or installed incorrectly, this can happen. I would suggest replacing the springs and maybe the pawls. Check the recoil assembly to make sure the issue is not with the recoil assembly.

Make sure your fuel is good, fresh and properly mixed. Airfilter clean and correct resistor plug.

To properly check the coil takes an expensive machine. Coils have a very low failure rate. However, if you doubt the coil, they are not terribly expensive. If you swap the coil make sure to properly set the air gap (distance from the fly wheel) and clean the area the coil mounts. Failure to get a good ground at the mounting location will prevent the coil from performing properly.

This can only happen if the seal between the two case halves is damaged. This is not an easy fix. The saw will need to be completely disassembled to access the gasket.