20 Most Recent Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp Questions & Answers

Hi,
If it is only running high at full choke - then it is not getting enough fuel.
You've cleaned out the whole thing - so it's not air that's the problem. It's running - so it's not a spark problem - it's a fuel problem.

If you have a fuel filter - change it out or clean it properly. If the fuel line is clear, then you need to adjust the running setting of the carb - there are usually 2 setting knobs -one for idle - one for running / mix.
You need it running richer till you get it going - then trim it back to stop it smoking and get a good rev.

It is very simple to re fit, you only need to lift the top cover off, the hooked end of the rod just engages into the hole in the throttle spindle, the other end with the plasric sleeve just sits into the groove in the tank unit, and is held down by the top cover, the part number of the rod is 530029869 the plastic sleeve is part number 530029863

Put oil in the reservoir.

Did anyone ever think about looking on ebay for this tool? I payed .99 for one, free shipping. It's a lot easier than trying to rig up a home made tool.

Forget checking the spark by grounding the plug to the engine. This is both dangerous and does not tell if you have enough spark under compression. Start by performing a secondary compression check, without proper secondary compression, the unit will not start. You need between 115 - 165 psi. If compression is good, check the spark with an inline spark tester. Set the gap on the tester at 6mm. If you have a blue / white spark, ignition is good. Make sure the ignition is gapped .20" from the flywheel, more or less will retard or advance the timing of the saw. Make absolutely sure you have the manufacturer's recommended spark plug. If it calls for a resistor plug, it MUST use a resistor plug to operate properly. If you have compression and spark, check fuel supply. Rebuilding modern carburetors is not recommended. They have very small fuel flow holes (due to emission) Replacement carbs can be purchased for under $100.

I would say yes the coil is bad, they do work off speed of rotation, however there is a limit to how fast you can phisicaly crank the engine by hand, the coil is part number 544018401, check out the web for sellers of this component.

if you mean where the chain oil lube goes then you could have a fire if any sparks occure ! If its where a seperate 2stroke oil feed should be then you will not lubricate the engine internals and sieze the engine ! Just drain out and fill with oil , 2stroke will need to be bled on the side of oil pump !

Get Chain lube for the chain oiler. Naturally, husqvarna recommends that you use "genuine husqvarna" oil for your mixture, I recommend a quality oil, doesn't have to be husky. Husqvarna recommends a 50:1 ratio, other manufacturers, of vertually all 2 cycle power equiptment use a 40:1 ratio. This mixture is slightly richer, but will not hurt your chainsaw. May produce a bit more smoke. Not sure what a 34 husky is...neither is Husqvarna, I visited the website and even tried to download a manual. Looked at every husky model, no 34.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/2rggj4jtbg080ih

If the saw has good compression and spark (check them with proper gauges) check the fuel lines and fuel filter. If this all checks out, then the issue is probably the carburetor itself.

You will need to double check your numbers. This number does not appear to be either a serial number or product number.

The compression should be between 115 lbs and 145 lbs

To remove the cover you must open the chainbrake. Pull the chainbrake lever back towards the operator until it "pops". Then the side cover will slip off of the saw.

Take the old chain to a servicing saw dealer that can cut and make up one to fit nearly any saw made. Plus, they will usually give you good tips on maintaining the new chain as well. Hope this helps!

carb needs cleaning, rebuilt or replaced. Take off and soak in carb cleaner for a day or so and blow out all orifices with shop air. if this does not fix then probably needs rebuilt or replaced.

That metal band you see which is preventing you from putting on the cover is part of the chain break mechanism. You were suppose to disengage the break before taking off the cover (I did the same thing). To get it back together you need to disengage the break by a tricky procedure and that will make the band diameter larger so it fits over the clutch. To force the band open, you need to first place the cover over the two bolts that hold the bar. As you already know, the back of the cover will not be able to fit over the clutch. Now in this angled position, bend (force) the break lever down (gray thing on top) until you can force together the sproket in the cover onto the mating pastic fitting built into the break lever. Now you can use the break lever to force down the internal spring and open the metal band. That will expand the stainless steel band and it will fit around the clutch. If you now push down on the back of the cover it will snap in over the clutch. Once you see how it is done, it is not so hard, but it is tricky because you are forcing some of the parts slightly out of position to get it back together. .

use a hooked rod to snag the oil feed line and filter.

Item 10 in the following is where your tank is.

40 to 1 is the ratio.

Sounds like a carb problem. My 310 stihl did the same thing. Rebuilt the carb and now it will cut the gates of the hinges off of H**L