Lexus ES 300 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 2

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The bolts are "Lefty Loosey"

Hi. Thanks for your question. For overhead cams ypu can refer to https://www.reliable-store.com and download the entire service manual which includes all the information along with the diagrams for better understanding. Good day!

there are open or short in the engine wire,check the connection of the connector,check also the connection of vaccum hose,injector,fuel preesure,and ignition system,,good luck.

Check the low level as on the dryer it maybe bad.

I will help you I have been there before what you're going to have to do is program the key for the entire car and you can do that by following instructions on YouTube or you can call the dealership and I'll give you instructions for free

Most likely it is a bent or seized shock absorber - remove and test by hand and replace if necessary. For best practice replace in pairs.

Could be the ECU has failed. Is the Check Engine Light (CEL) on? It should light up when the IGN is turned on, before you try to start. If not, the ECU is not powering up. This does not mean the ECU is dead, as there are relays and IGN switch circuits that route +12v to it. If you smelled something like rotten fish when you lost power, then its because electrolytic capacitors in the ECU have failed. ECUs also have a "limp-home" mode when the engine management circuits have a partial failure.

Cold start circuit could be plugged with carbon. Throttle body may benefit from a cleaning. Or possibly the cold (warm up) valve.

Just replace the glass it should come with a seal.

Did you torque the head bolts in the proper pattern? Sounds like your head gasket is leaking.

if the vehicle was not designed for hids its best to make a relay system off the original head light wiring, like you would do for fog/spotlights this would draw power direct from the battery and not the original wiring as the original wiring may not be able to take the drain from the startup of the hids. there are kits for vehicles so no wire cutting is involved, just plugs into the original wiring. same with led kits. https://www.hidextra.com/lexus-es300-hid-kits/

Your wheels each have rotor speed sensors... 2006 LEXUS GX470 4 7L V8 ABS Wheel Speed Sensor RockAuto These are easily bent or misaligned... and can be put into a position of INTERFERENCE with the (particularly ... in YOUR case "RIGHT FRONT") ROTOR... These parts ARE NOT CHEAP... and WILL ADVERSELY impact the operation of BOTH TRACTION CONTROL & ABS (anti-lock brakes)... It is a WORK ERROR... while your BRAKES were being "inspected" ... your rookie dealer "mechanic" most likely did something... ROAD-HAZARDS "can" break these parts... but reasoning with your fully functioning brain... (OCCAM'S Razor) Occam razor Wikipedia the free encyclopedia You should NEVER HAVE LEFT... without having a SERVICE PERSON making a note of your ABS & TRC lights... You do have rights... and government licensing boards... In the unlikely event your "dealer" FAILS to recognize their obvious WORK ERROR... OCCAMS razor: When you hear the thunder of hoof beats... Think HORSES... (not Zebras) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zebra_(medicine) I have had many BAD experiences with DEALERS... (& I trust my lying eyes)... I'm just saying (in my opinion)... Get back to that "DEALER"... pronto...!! Carnac the Magnificent

Quite often that is to do with your Gear Position Neutral Safety switch.

I had a 94 sunbird and when we stopped, it would start running a little rough and the speedometer on the dash would start raising up sometime to 20 mph, and the car was not moving. I finally took it to a shop and they said it was the voltage regulator which was built into the alternator. They changed the alternator and we never had the problem again. The speedometer on the car was controlled by and electric circuit not a cable. You should have the code checked it can help diagnose the problem. Most auto part places where I live will tell you the trouble code for free with their code reader.

In order to change the back light bulbs you must remove the cluster from the dash.

assuming you have the right rated fuse in their you might want to check for short-circuit after diffuse i.e. chafed wire

It sounds like your previous thermostat was stuck partially open ( that's why the engine temp never reached mid point on your temp gauge) . Why you are smelling the rubber is another issue. I suspect some antifreeze from the thermostat change got onto your car's serpentine belt and is causing it to slip some...until it wears off or you clean it off the belt it will stink.

As both the radio and ventilation motor packed up simultaneously, I suspect a common 12V positive feed, so if fuses ARE ok, then try unclip fuse box as far as possible to look for a burnt off / broken terminal. As you said p-locks & p-windows didn't work before, there might be loose connections hidden away under dashboard, behind console (center). Happy hunting!! :) Clive.