Hyundai Elantra - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 9

hi minnieskirts. go to this link it might help you out. Hyundai Elantra died while was driving on the freeway Google Search

If the manufacturer has added this procedure, it is probably because they have seen failures. I would do the extra torquings. They only take about an hour, if you have the tools. Youmust use a torque wrench. Remove the air intake hose, as necessary.Remove the rocker arm center cover.Label and remove the spark plug wires.Remove the breather and PCV hoses.Remove the upper timing belt cover.Remove the rocker cover. Tighten head bolts to proper torque specification in sequence shown below. 65-72 ft. lbs. (90-100 Nm). Install the rocker cover. Fig. Fig. 9: Apply a 0.4 in. (10 mm) bead of Three Bond No. 1212Dor equivalent sealant to each end of the rocker coveras illustrated-except 1.5L (VIN E), 1.5L (VIN J) and 3.0L (VIN P) engine. Fig. Fig. 10: Rocker cover bolts are of different lengths.Bolts marked as (*) are 25 mm long. Bolts markedas (**) are 20 mm long. Bolts marked as (***) are 15 mm long

you have to mention the make and model that is being tested there are codes but if it is a GM product many scan tools will not read the faults because it requires a scan tool with a special protocol for GM if it is a nissan , the ECM has a small screw that has to be turned to get the codes to read The car is playing so rest assured there are fault codes but who ever is doing the reading is using the wrong scanner or is not familiar with your make of car requirements

The 4-wire sensor is for vehicles rated as Ultra Low Emission Vehicles. If you have a 5-wire connector, your vehicle isn't ULEV. NTK is the brand installed at the factory and that's the brand you should use. Go to rockauto.com and you can buy it there if your local store can't get that brand.

Does the vehicle have a manual or automatic transmission ? If automatic have you tried moving the gear selector to neutral ? park netural safety switch.

No fuel delivery is fine im sure i was having same issue thought the same thing so i changed fuel pump. Still same thing try checking your rear drum brakes under neath the rotor that are for your emergency brake your ebrake is sticking inside the drum everything is old and prolly needs replaced try checking the brakes jack it up and try turning one rear wheel then the other one wen ebrake is down and wheels are in the air the rear wheels should spin freely if not then the drum brakes r sticking check it out like isaid i had same issue and spent money that didnt need to be spent

Hi, fusible links in older car are most likely installed very close to the battery. Click this article for more details: https://www.easybom.com/blog/a/unknown-facts-on-fusible-links

Not a problem. Just do not turn unit on lest you trash the belt!

I would go back to the mechanic and get him to explain himself better. I feel by the sound of it - it is fuel related.

Now a days Fans will starts rotating when the hit to specified temperature, do not worry if Fan did not starts intimidate after car starts. The Fan will start automatically when engine temperature arise. Even after that is its not starting get it into the Garage, u may have to check FAN switch.

If the test says it the issue.. you have no choice but to replace it.. (you could cut it apart and clean it out, then reweld it)..BUT if the inspectors see it,, you are IN BIG TROUBLE!!

Check out all the wiring connections having anything to do with your transmission. Some wire has dislodged.

if some one has tried to suck gas with a hose. they could have pushed the vent line back in the tank . There is a 3/4 line inside your 2 inch to releave presure. have line checked.

there is a switch on the door frame the door hits this and brakes the turns the light and door chime off, will need cleaning or replacing.

It's the fuel vent pipe, check and make sure it's vented and not stopped up with dirt or road debris If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2094e122cc46f24c

Yes, there's a relay in the passenger compartment relay box. Power flows from 2 fuses; blower fuse 30A in the engine compartment relay box and fuse 12 10A in the dash fuse box. The 20A fuse goes to one side of the blower relay contacts. The other fuse goes to one side of the relay control coil. When you turn the blower switch on, it ground the control coil which moves the contacts and sends power to the motor. The motor speeds are controlled on the ground side of the circuit by the blower motor resistor. Which resistor provides ground depends on the speed switch setting you choose. But the whole system depends on ground G01. If that ground is bad or corroded, the blower won't work

There are several possible causes for this symptom. Your regulator is integrated to the fuel pump inside the fuel tank. Unless the problem is in the wiring, the pump will probably need replacing. A mechanic can check the wiring for you or you can check yourself with an ohmmeter.

Think your dealer is mistaken. If the engine is stock, then the serial number of car should enable dealer to get the engine info. Try another dealer just to make sure. I NEVER trust those *(&^^^&(*)))&*^%^&(

if your car is front wheel drive it could be your cvs that go to the trans,do you have the orginal tires on it or did you put bigger ones ? didyou do any changes/ then this noise started.thats the best I can do without me looking at it.

bleed out the air and get the engine running, then decide if the price is good or not still even if the engine and transmission is faulty requiring replacements , , as the body is in good condition the extra cost may still make it a good buy compared to used car card prices