2000 Mercury Villager - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

hi dont know if this relates to your car but may be crank sensor or the dizzy trigger unit i had a simlar problem turned out to be dizzy trigger unit breaking down when it got hot.car was hard 2 start when hot and as it got worse motor would cut out when driving.it drove me and a few others nuts as nothing showed up in the codes good luck

go to villager-quest yahoo group and join for free expert help.

do 4 way hazard flashers work?

headlights?
Tail lights?

Side marker lights?

seriously? I'd take the car right back to him , No Ford tech I've ever known would do that . If you mess with it ,, they are just going to void any warranty you have on the repairs, take it back and ask them why all of a sudden your having new issues after wires were connected not using the proper connector,

You have a parasitic drain. Remove one fuse at a time and connect an ammeter between the fuse and the fuse holder. Everything should be off (no current drawn). When you see current being drawn, then that is the circuit to investigate. Normally it will be a switch feeding a light in the trunk-hood, etc. All tests with key out of the ignition.

check if the negative terminal of your ignition coil is connected to the condenser of your distributor.
also, make sure that the negative terminal of the ignition coil is not connected to the negative terminal of the battery / body ground.

IAC idler air control valve is not working. Its job is to bump up the RPM every time any kind of load is aded to the engine.

go to yahoo group for villager quest owners. lot's of help there.

go to yahoo group for villager quest owners.
they work off same system. need more info on issue & how it started. Could be swithc for rear controls.

yahoo group for villager-quest owners. so there.

I was the engineering manager for service. It is a FREEWHEELING engine.

go to yahoo group for villager-quest owners and join for free. everything you need is there.

Its called a slip differential and is normal, when both wheels are on the ground you have traction,
best scenario if both wheels are on the ground and one is stuck on ice or mud the free wheel
will still have the traction to grab, just not the full traction of the car. nothing to worry about, good luck!

your thermostat is stuck in the closed position, replace it, anytime a hose blows off, this is usually the case, remember when replacing it that the spring part of it goes towards the motor

• try your spare key.
• try the passenger door
• call your dealer with your 17 digit VIN number on your registration, insurance card or call your insurance agent.
• go to delaer with ID and they can cut a key using the code they get from Ford. Easy

go here for help

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Still sounds low on freon. Most with rear a/c have rusted lines under body. Replace with original or get hoses made up.

gerry

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

go here

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

this is the rear sensor. The connector is near the oil filter, passenger side.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

go here

gerry

HI, you did not say you put gas in the tank, so, i assume you didn't. That would be the first thing to do.

Hello, You need to have your PCM Relay tested. If there is an ECC Relay, it needs testing too. What happens is the Diagnostics work on a circuit that links all the sensors. The 2 Relays I mentioned are part of the circuit and when they go out, the connection to the Diagnostic plug is dead. These Relays should be in a large box marked Powerbox. It may be a good idea to go to an autoparts store and see what the part looks like and ask for a location of the specific Relays you need.

The other possibility is a bad connection at the computer brain under the dash, but because of the Relays it may not be getting power.

I hope my solution is helpful in fixing your car.