2002 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Unless you know for sure that the oil pump is bad or your just changing it for a high performance pump. These cars have an oil cooler that clogs up and causes problems. It is located at the bottom of the radiator, between the radiator and engine. About 18" long and 2" in diameter. It has the oil lines and the coolant lines running to it. Remove it, it can be disassembled and cleaned. there are a lot of fins in it and they clog easily. When they start to clog you lose oil pressure( oil light on) And the lifters start to rattle. Have friends on the police force and they said the coolers where a problem, until they put them on the maintenance schedule to be cleaned. If this is the problem your having , try this first. Replacing the oil pump is not a fun job. It is almost easier to pull the engine out.

If you supply your vin to the dealer (vehicle indentification number) they can retrieve the code-it is also located (sometimes) inside the glove box (on the sides, or the outsides of the pouch) and they are on the door module, located behind the glovebox. If you go the dealer route, you might have to do it in person (with an owners card).

Also Could be wires. or vacuum leak... any check engine lights?

Ok, fuel filter is replaced.But if the problem is with fuel pump, then it also has to be replaced.You can get the fuel pressure checked at local car repair shop.If the fuel pressure checked low, then its problem with fuel pump.If you want to test, without checking fuel pressure.Then try this procedure.Spray starter fluid on the throttle body and then try to start the car, if it starts and runs smooth, then yes it confirmed, that fuel pump is faulty and it has to be replaced. This will help.--------- There are also many other possibilities including fuel pump issue. A car that cranks over but doesn't start, in many cases will be due to a bad fuel pump, a broken timing belt, an inoperative cam sensor or crank sensor. Also these problems are related to faulty spark plug. Check the spark at spark plugs when you start the car. Do you notice any spark. Actually you should see. If in case there is no spark then it's a spark plug problem. Also the coil pack gives power to spark plug. So check the voltage at coil pack. It will show 12 volt. If there is no voltage noticed at coil pack then its faulty coil pack that has to be replaced. If all the possible options checked out ok then check the car starter. The starter gets power from battery to start the car. If the starter is faulty then it will not let the car to start. Also check and confirm that there is fuel in the car. If its very low fuel then in some cases this causes the problem. You can also listen for the fuel pump's humming sound when the key is first turned on. Also if a inoperative fuel pump is suspected, a good technician will always check to verify there is power and ground being supplied to the pump, to eliminate the possibility of a bad relay or electrical issue. Fuel pressure can be checked with a pressure gauge and if there is pressure, pulse can be checked at the fuel injectors in several ways including the most common, with the use of noid lights. If the injectors don't have pulse the engine won't start. ---------- This troubleshooting tips will help you to solve the problem. Thanks. Helpmech.

The horn does have a fuse. If you need anything else, let me know. I am here to help you.

The vehicle cranks over but will not star?

The fuel filter is either under the car on the passenger side in front of the rear wheel or its in between the fuel tank and the rear axle near the top of the fuel tank.

A fuel filter will rarely if ever cause a vehicle not to start. If it did there would have been other symptoms before the no start condition.

All the alternator does is recharge the battery and keep the car running once it has started. It will not affect the actual starting of the vehicle.

Have you checked for fuel pressure? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The car has to go through a certain number of driving cycles (start, drive, shut down) after the computer has been reset or the battery disconnected for an extended period of time before it will be ready, sometimes 50 or more depending on the vehicle. You could drive 1,000 miles and it wouldn't make a difference. Take your car on multiple short trips, around 15-20 minutes each, letting it sit for a while in between. Just starting and shutting down the car won't count either.

The motors on windows are designed to stop with pressure, kind of like a limit switch. When the stop short your window is in a bind. this is caused by the window regulator going bad. If you need help and want to replace it your self let me know and I will guide you threw it. Randy

They should be located at the top side of the valve covers under the coils.

YOU GETTING INTO LOT OF DISASSEMBLY TROUBLE YOU HAVE REMOVE WHOLE DASH AND TO GET HEATER CORE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE WINDSHIELD WIPER MOUNTING ARM AND THE PIVOT.SHAFT.YOU HAVE REMOVE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE UPPER COWL EXTENSION SCREW AND THE EXTENSION.REMOVE VACUUM HOSES AND THE WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR FROM THE EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS CANISTER PURGE VALVE NUTS AND THE VALVE.REMOVE COWL SIDE NUT.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE RIGHT SIDE REAR FENDER APRON SCREWS AND REPOSITION THE APRON.REMOVE EVAPORATOR HOUSING NUT AND SCREW.YOUR HEATER CORE INSIDE EVAPORATOR HOUSING YOU HAVE TO REMOVE HEATER CORE FROM THE RIGHT REAR OF FENDER FROM EVAPORATOR HOUSING.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE DASH TO DISCONNECT HEATER HOSES, REAR AIR DUCTS,REMOVE EATC CONTROLLER AND DISCONNECT OTHER ELECTRICAL HARNESSES YOU HAVE A BIG JOB.GOOD LUCK.YOU WILL NEED A REPAIR MANUAL TO SEE INSTRUCTIONS.

you cannot thay are designed to another one of fords bright ideas there is a specila tool for under a hundred buck u can get from mac tools works great deffently a must have for a job like that

Check in Power Distribution Box Description, position 4, 15AMP...



Additional details in page 169 and next from Manual-Crown-Victoria.

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

safely raise and support the back of the vehicle. The fuel pump will be on the passenger side of the fuel tank.

remove the fuel lines from the pump. Be careful as any residual pressure in the lines will spray out and get you. Wrap a rag around the connector before you remove it to reduce the spray.

Unbolt the passenger side fuel tank strap. You will need to do this to remove the wiring harness to the pump.

Remove the 6 bolts holding the pump to the fuel tank. An 8mm socket should work. If the tank is full gas will start coming out at this point. Have a drain pan ready to catch it.

Pull the pump out of the tank. This can be a bit of a rubix cube but the pump will come out without having to pull or drop the tank.

Please be careful! anytime there is fuel vapor or spilt fuel there is the chance for fire.

Use new clips in the fuel line fittings. There should be one black clip and one white clip. They only go into the fitting with the tab facing the line. If you put them in backwards the lines will pull off.

Sometimes they use a quick connect fitting that a release tool needs to be used to get the fittings off of the fuel pump. They can be purchased at any good auto parts store. There are two sizes and most parts stores will carry the tool that has both sizes in one tool.

Make sure you replace the fuel filter when replacing the pump. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Yes it is your blower motor that is going bad, eventually if not fixed then it will stop blowing all together.

Check your Inertia switch in the trunk. It is on the drivers side of the left rear quarter panel and behind the slots in the carpet. Hold down the button for 2-3 seconds and it should repower the fuelpump.

The Inertia switch is a safety device for Impacts. Sometimes the closing of a door or the trunklid will trigger it. It is a common problem across all manufacturers and there usually is no dash warning or "check engine" light for the condition.

lubricate the latch with a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40. Repeat as needed. J.

Go to this FREE Ford website and view or download your owners manual. Fuse block information is located in the roadside emergency section (page 160) it shows the fuse block diagram for your vehicle.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/results.asp

according to the owners manual it is fuse number 18

look on top of the throttle body for the idle adjusting screw. take a phillips screwdriver and SLOWLY turn it, you should here the engine respond immediately. as long as the engine doesn't stall when it idles in park, i wouldn't mess with it, but if it sounds like it might croak any second, i'd adjust it

Your 'fan blower resistor' went out. I believe it is located up under the dash on the passengers side, can't be certain. You will need to locate your blower and the resistor will be right beside it. There will be a bundle of wires, approximately 4 or 5 going into a bundle connector that plugs into your resistor. 3 -1/4" screws hold it in place. You can get a new one at your local auto parts store for between $25 and $35.