NAV5800AWW washer won't spin

The motor sounds like it is overloading and kicking out. Most likely cause: binding brake pads.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.

sound as though the drain pump has something hitting the impeller making the clicking noise,and the filter basket next to the pump is blocked by debris and not letting it drain

Hello, Does it sound like its spinning in regular and just not spinning? If So You may just need to replace the belt. Also this unit the motor pulley would melt and break. Lean the unit back and you can see the belt and pulley. Hope this helps and please dont forget to rate me. Thank You...

Check the belt/ pulley bushings

sounds like you are dealing with the same problem as me .
take off the front panel (after unplugging power) take a flash lite and look at the large pulley at the back just below the pulley is the helix check to see if they are worn .

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2008/10/21/amana-washer-makes-loud-ratcheting-noise-during-spin-but-doesnt-actually-spin/

Sounds very similar to having something such as a sock or small article of clothing that is too large to be sucked down the drain hose into the pump. So what happens is it hangs around between the inner and outer drums and sometimes gets itself lodged over the drum drain hole, and can allow water to be centrifically flung over the top of the drum. Most times when the spin cycle stops, the article of clothing will dislodge and float around inside the drum only to do it again later....
If you can remove the top of the machine, you can usually see the gap between the two drums and use a piece of coathanger wire with a small hook on the end and "go fishing in the area between the two drums and close to the drain hole location... bet you'll find something in there... Let me know how it goes... and if I can help .. ken

First, check the belt (located in the bottom of the unit) and if it shows signs of wear (black dust) and shiny sides on belt and black marks on the motor, transmission, and water pump pulleys - replace the belt. The motor is spring loaded and acts as the tensioner up to a point of too much wear on the belt.

You will need to tilt the washer about 45 degrees and prop it to keep it from going all the way over (just makes it more difficult to right it later). Pop the belt off by rotating it while pulling the belt off the edge of the transmission (larger) pulley. Again, the motor pulley is spring loaded and will flex appropriately. Reverse the process with installation of a new (exact replacement part number).

If this doesn't fix the problem, you may have to call the Maytag Repairman. They would have replaced the belt anyway and would probably charge $50 + for the belt and installation.

• it sounds like it could be a bad belt. tilt the machine over and look at the very bottom, you will see the belts. they are spring loaded and can be changed without any tools.
  
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• or you may need a transmission pulley and bearing repair kit ($30). this will fix the center pulley (spinning problem, not he draining issue) if it is stripped out. as you will see, the center pulley is made of plastic and does have frequent problems. but the good thing is that the parts are cheap and easy to change.
  

take the two screws out of the front bottom panel and fill the machine up with water then get a flashlight and turn to spin and if you look at the top of the transmission behind the motor watch for any water flying out it there is that is the cause of the problem if not you have a bad motor