Kenmore Freezers - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Try disconnecting power for about 30 seconds, and then restore power. This will reboot the control and maybe restart.

Sometimes when the power comes back on you get a power spike or low voltage, this can damage electrical components.

The hot sides is normal, this is how they expel the heat from inside the freezer, sometimes it may help to use a fan to help cool. Also make sure there is about 12" of room around all sides of the freezer .

It is in a defrost cycle if you wait for around 30 min. it should come back on

It should come back on automatically when power is restored. If not you could have had a power spike or low voltage and caused damage.

On some models the beeping will not stop until it gets to normal temp. The -3 is more than likely the set temperature of the unit. you can try to change that with the control. The best thing to do is get a thermometer to check what the actual temperature is.

the drain pan removal requires a sealed system repair to modify the type and new location of the replacement drain pan. this should get repaired by a certified refrigeration service technician.

If working fine do not worry about it. However, you can always throw a blanket or something over the top to insulate more and cut down on losses.

why not then when its down to zero shut the unit off and open the lid and free freezing...no electricity required....remember pop machines sit out in all types of weather

See if compressor is running. If not check for bad start cap/relay Parts available at this site Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Maybe sears web site can help you.

That is the dumbest answer I've ever heard from a technician. The cold control on most boxes controls the freezer temperature. You want the freezer temp to be around zero degrees. Somewhere (usually in the refrigerator section) there's another control that actually sets a damper, letting some cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator. Higher numbers equal lower temperature. Find that second control knob and turn it up by 1 or 2 numbers, let an hour or so pass and check your refrigerator temp. You want about 40 degrees in the fridge.

You mean it build up full of ice and no room for any thing...? If so. Unplug it and let the door open for 24 hours then clean it up and plug back into power. You should be good for a while. Good luck Mai

I was told to check the doors gaskets when buying a fridge. The gasket must seal all around. Check by using a dollar bill. The dollar bill when placed anywhere along the door gasket must be held tight when the door is closed, it is held when you try to skip the bill off. If the bill is not held, the gasket is defective. This means there must not be any gaps letting air into the fridge.
A thin coat of ice means air is going into the fridge and moisture in the air freezing into ice.
Some doors flex and warp causing a bad gasket seal, or the gallery is bad. Just one probable cause for icing in the fridge

Check door gaskets if sealing properly? Check to verify freezer is level? If all of the above are fine then look at your drain for the condenasation. It's located at the bottom of your back wall underneath the aluminum evaporator that the cold air comes from. (You will need to remove the back panel inside of freezer wall To get to the drain. It's probably plugged and frozen over. Do not use a chisel or knif instead take a cup of hot water and pour it Oder the drain area and let it sit. (Your freezer will not be running for an hour or so so think ahead or work fast). That being said you have to unplug unit first :-) once you remove all ice push a straw or something through drain to verify its draining through. You can also flush more water down it to watch it drain showing you that it's working. Start with this first.