if it's not a fuse it's the bulb some of the front lights use a double filament like the rear lights the parking light filament is probably burnt out or a fuse is bad from use or a short in a wiring harness somewhere
depending on the year the truck is and what the speedometer is doing could determine how easy or difficult it will be to fix if the speedomoter is bouncing from a low to high reading most times it's the sensor on the rear differential housing going bad also if it has stopped working is same problem the other problem could be the cable itself or the sensor ans linkage at the transmission, but is most likely the rear sensor. that is located on the top of the differential housing and is held in by one bolt and is easily removed after taking the bolt out.
I found a couple of codes that may be the cause here is the first one and the seond right under it thay seem to point to the EGR or EVR valve pressure issues it might need replacing. this is the 327 code can't find more than 3 digits for a Ford error code
Electronic pressure transducer (EPT)/differential pressure feedback exhaust (DPFE) sensor/electronic vacuum regulator (EVR)
327
(O,R,M)
EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
you might be getting 2 three digit error codes as Ford only has 2 and 3 digit codes form all the sites I've checked. a 116 code is this
Out of range Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)
I hope this helps some
? 3:18
www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0EToZjmTO8
Sep 3, 2014 - Uploaded by FordTechMakuloco
I have a 2011 ford escape usually only blows warm air, from time to time I ... cold air , and then a decide to blow out a warm or hot air , That have an humid , stale odor ) . ... Fast forward 3 months and the ac will quit working all together . ... noise again but would die down in a few seconds after engagement.
I hate to say it but you probably have to take it to a Ford store. They guard the info you need to find it. EGR is very complex and with all the digital busses in the vehicle moving data back and forth, the old broken wire etc fix isn't usually available any more.
Turn signals and hazards are on separate flasher modules now. Check the flashers, either under the dash or under the electronics pod under the hood.
Brake lights are on a different circuit, and if they aren't coming on, check the brake light switch attached to the brake pedal. They usually just need an adjustment.
Most vehicles run the battery positive cable directly to the starter solenoid. They also run the alternator cable there as well where it connects and provides the charge path back to the battery. There is usually a fusible link in the cable between the alternator and the solenoid. This may have melted under high current or just broken (they do that sometimes), causing the loss of the charging path.
This is a vague questions without stating the year/make/model. There are several things that could be the culprit. The easiest to check is fluid level; without fluid, the valves cannot build pressure to ingage the bands inside the transmission. A clogged or dirty filter would be the next easiest culprit - how long has it been since you changed the fluid and filter? Mileage is the other simple issue; it may just be worn out. A transmission is full of moving and/or wearing parts. It is possible that it can't be fixed.
Any other issue you will not be able to diagnose on your own, but there is possibility you can fix it... if it has a sticky/dirty valve-body (the part that engages the clutches), you may be able to clean it for about $12. Go to the parts house or department store and purchase a bottle of "Trans-X" in the silver bottle with the blue lable - NOT the black bottle with the yellow label. Also avoid Lucas or any other "thick" fluid. This Trans-x is a solvent/cleaner just for gummed up transmission parts. Put the Trans-X in the transmission, put it in drive w/ the brake and/or e-brake applied and run the car. If it is a sticky valve-body, it should clear up and start to pull within the first 5 minutes or so. If it does start working, drive it for about 50 or so miles to clean everything, then change the fluid and filter.
If the above did not fix it, you are destined for professional help. You either need a new valve body, pump, rebuild, another transmission, or maybe another car depending on what vehicle you have (depends on what it's worth).
Hope this helps!
-Scott
Euro Parts Plus
Horn relay is in the main power distribution box under the hood. It is a very tall unit, that is higher than all the other relays around it, making it easier to find, and remove. SMP (Standard Motor Parts) replacement number is RY612. It has 5 terminals, three across and one each in a "T" style pattern.
i think your key needs to be reprogrammed. you must go with your ford dealer for reprogram your key.
i solve a similar problem with a windstar 03 doing that.
