Ford Vehicle Parts & Accessories - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You might try a tranny service, but in all likelyhood you've burned the bands on the 1st gear. What it was doing, "jerking and high rpm on shift" used to be known as "slipping."

In line with rear light fuse, asrear trailer light extension from rear lights, And / or Tow Hitch

If the bellhousing from one can be put on the other, in theory, it should work. Just keep in mind that the torque horsepower of the 300 6 could totally splatter the 5 speed out of that flyweight Ranger.

if you can locate the ground in the unit, run an auxiliary ground to verify that the oe ground is good

It looks like the drive shaft/train needs replacement. Normally the front wheel drive cars have the drive shaft in the front.

Could you please tell what brand or describe the antenna and remote.there are several brands of remote starters. Few are interchangeable.

Check this site for a similar issue..may help 2001 Escape automatic transmission stuck in reverse

More info needed make model symptoms such as any flashing lights in cluster.

check the owners manual. that may be a safety feature.

cil. ?

Check tranny fluid. make sure it is topped off. What color is it? Is it burned? Is there a check engine?

Fuse is probably the problem on this.

FIRST THING TO CHECK IS TRANNY FLUID LEVEL. IF THAT'S GOOD UNDERNEATH THE DASH WHERE YOUR SHIFT LEVER HOOKS ON TO THE STEERING COLUMN THERE IS A LITTLE WHITE CABLE THAT ATTACHES TO THE INDICATOR ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER THAT TELLS YOU IF YOU ARE IN DRIVE REVERSE ETC... IT ALSO HOOKS UP TO THE SHIFTER POSITION SENSOR AND IF THE ADJUSTMENT IS EVEN SLIGHTLY OFF IT WILL ACT AS YOU DESCRIBE, THERE IS A THUMB WHEEL WITH A LOCKNUT ON IT THAT YOU CAN ADJUST UNTIL THE INDICATOR IS EXACTLY IN THE CENTER OF THE GEAR YOU ARE IN WITH YOUR HAND OFF THE LEVER.. TRY THAT AND FINALLY IF THE TRANNY HAS OVERDRIVE THE MODULATOR GOES OUT ON THEM AND ONCE AGAIN THE SYMPTOMS ARE SIMILAR TO WHAT YOU DESCRIBE. GOOD LUCK

well if you have check all the brake lines and the clutch pedal and slave cylinder, if all is o k there then you will have to take out the gearbox and most likely problem is the clutch fork /yoke could be broken or bent

There is a short circuit somewhere, or the fuse is not of the same value as the original. check the fuse amperage.

Need new overhaul kit fitted.

It's a torque converter pressure solenoid.

There are two arms that run from the control valve on the right side of the intake manifold. At the end of these rods there is a nylon bushing, these crack and brake, buy new ones (Dorman #47099). Replace and the code should clear.

Assuming it is an electrical clutch, unplug the wire while the clutch is engaged & you know the temp is cool enough that it should not be on. If it stays on then the clutch is bad. If it gores off when you unplug it, then the sensor is sending current to make it operate. Then you will have to determine if it is hot enough to need the clutch on or if the sensor is getting a false reading. Good Luck.

Find Jim Osborne reproduction the should have repro diagrams.