20 Most Recent GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 6 Questions & Answers

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=xl44

is yours the the battery type or the electric type. battery type can get weak and will light others but not many ( need new battery) electric type there is a unit in the back and a black box that is the sparker. using a meter find the wire from the sparker to the spark end on the box they do pull out its push pull pins you push the wire in a bit the pull out. check the wire and see it works as some time it can snap from heat. also check that it is not touching the side of the cooker as that will stop the spark. also check the top of the ring were it sparks to if this is not clean it will not spark or the gap is to fare away. this can happen with heat the metal moves when hot and move back when it cools somtimes not back to the same place.

@00 or 180, does not spoil cooking. If that is your only problem, then set oven to 220 or 230 with your thermostat in the oven. Then compare the reading in the oven to the one on the control panel.You can then set the stat on the control panel to higher or lower, to compensate for the difference.A new stat might not make that much difference as other issues might be involved.

The control board is going out and will need to be replaced. Here is that part to order. There is also a video on that same parts page to show you how to make the repair. The part comes with a 365 day, any part , any reason return policy.

Either one of your controls is partly on damaged or the wires from it have melted together just under your cooktop

try relighting it first

there must be a broken wire or a bad connecton, trace the wire

Sounds like fuel starvation.

I had the same problem and searched extensively for a solution. They even have a video from GE on the net telling you how to avoid melting them, which is basically don't open to broil and make sure the seal is good on the oven. Essentially, don't use their oven normally like the rest of the ovens in the world. Finally I went to a few show rooms to look for a knob to substitute for the garbage ones from GE. On one of the new models they have a solid cast stainless knob (with a plastic shaft, I think it is delrin) which looks identical but has a longer shaft. I obtained the PN which is WB03T10262 and ordered one. I trimmed the shaft length to match the length of the defective knob with a hack saw, and had to trim out some mold flashing in the cavity. After a couple of fittings I was finshed and it looks fine. I then ordered 3 more from the Appliance Zone for $15.98 each. GE's price for the same part was $25.25!!

call a appliance and parts store give them the tear and model number from stove it is inside the door or on back it5 mkay also be on the top under the fuse panel access door

Check to see if the glide rail has been bent of if something is actually pinned under the stove it self sometime tile or and rug will get caugh in the drawer. after that's all clear the only other issue I can see is if cleaners of some sort have drained down unto the drawer slide, or the drawer slide is bent or off track some how.

Hi, Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go intothe self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaningoption. Thanks for the info!!

lyrica...you should call the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

Second, go here: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/

Get your manual above and get the section on removing the door. Lay the door on a padded surface so that the outside is facing down. Then, find the appropriate screws and carefully remove them. You may want to take a few digital pictures. It should all come apart and then reassemble. Avoid touching insulation or breathing any dust from it. Caution when cleaning oven glass: use only blue cleaner and mild abrasive pads to remove burned on stuff. Never install any glass that is chipped or scratched.