20 Most Recent GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Check your owner's manual, but most self-cleaning ovens should not be cleaned with chemicals. The finish can be permanently damaged. You might try running the oven through the self-cleaning cycle more than once. It will take some time. Make sure the room is ventilated properly since the cleaning cycle produces a lot of heat.

Starfish, remove the oven racks, in back there will be two chrome screws, remove them. Lift the lower oven panel out by pulling up from the rear. Remove the screws holding the flame spreader and remove the flame spreader. Now you will see the burner and igniter attached to it. There are 2 quarter inch hex screws holding the ignitor on. GE likes to put them on an angle where you cant get at them. If you have trouble you can remove the bottom drawer and remove the screws securing the burner to the back wall. There should be one in the front too. The burner will now lift up and you can get at the screws. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts. Just cut the old igniter, strip the ends of the wires going to it and wire nut the new one on. Reverse the rest of the steps. Here's a little trouble shooting schem. Catriver...post back.

You have a problem with either air supply or with the burner getting dirty.  Clean out throughly with solvent type cleaners...no abrasives.  You should only have blue flames.

You will need to replace the igniter. Here is that part to order.

REMEMBER TO UNPLUG YOU UNIT> The oven igniter is located under a metal plate. Remove the oven door so that you can slide out the flat cover to expose this plate. There are four screws holding down the plate. Once you remove this plate the igniter will be exposed. Hint: The screws holding the igniter in place are difficult to loosen if you dont have the correct socket for it. Once you do remove the two screws holding the igniter, pull the igniter until the connector plug comes out and replace it.The Broiler igniter is easier to access. Remove one screw from the plate covering the gas manifold. Then loosen the one towards the front. Pivot this metal cover ccw to get it out of the way and using a socket, remove the two screws holding down the igniter and pull it out until the connector is exposed. Install in reverse order.

Does the igniter glow white hot when you try to start the oven?

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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Does the igniter glow whit hot? If not, replace with this new igniter.

If you are getting no display or any functions at all from the display you will need to replace it. Here is the control display to order.

All parts come with a 365 day, any part, any reason return policy.

You will need to replace the temp probe. Here is the part to order.

There is also a video on that parts page to show you how to make the repair.

most appliance repair centers carry them take modle ans serial numbers with you

Check to see if the igniter glows white hot. The igniter needs to be glowing white hot before it will allow the valve to open and lite. Here is the part to order if you find it bad. Post back the results.

I have a GE Gas Stove XL44 the stove top buners don't light by themselves without manual lighting. When I turn on the buner knob the buner doesn't click. Also I used my self- cleaning oven for the first time and stopped it before the time was up after that is when the stove top buners wouldn't light by theirselves.

First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.

The way the oven works is like so:1) User sets the desired temperature2) Power is sent to the ignitor3) The ignitor is then energized, drawing 3.2 amps of current4) When the 3.2 amps is drawn, the gas safety valve is allowed to open and gas flows into the burner assembly in the oven.5) This gas is then ignited, causing the oven to heat. 6) As the oven heats up, the oven sensor, which is the metal rod located at the top on the rear oven wall, converts the heat into an electrical signal, relaying this information to the main control which in turns displaying the temperature.(In models with a dial thermostat, there won't be a sensor, though a metal wire with a bulbous end will be present, which is actually connected to the thermostat.) Will all that said, more than likely the ignitor is bad in the oven, not drawing enough amperage to allow the safety valve to open. Even though the ignitor is lighting up and glowing, I'm 99% certain that this is the problem. Here is the part number for ignitor. WB2X9154 and can be ordered from any parts distributor or from a local supplier. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3