20 Most Recent GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

Open sensor circuit or intermittent sensor connection. First you need to check the sensor, to test it disconnect power, pull the range or oven out then take off the back cover. Once off, you should see the two small wires that are from the sensor and you need to disconnect them (some have a plug but if you have to cut the wires). Now using your ohmmeter , measure resistance between the wires going to the sensor. It should be somewhere between 1050 and 1150 ohms. Note that this test should be done while the oven is at room temperature. If the sensor is open (or not within that range) replace sensor.. you did this but have seen bad sensors new, if not check the wiring between sensor and control. If you don't find any loose connections, the problem may be in the control board but the sensor is much cheaper, so testing with a ohmmeter and cking wiring will totally eliminate that. Sensors and control boards can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com or Repairclinic.com. they who I use. they have online chat and 800# to talk with a tec. if needed before ordering or install questions. Hopefully tis a bad new sensor or loose wire connection. Hope this helps a little.

looks like a faulty pressure valve qualified gas fitter needs to check over the gas part of the fridge

Check the wiring connections the door latch.

Pull the igniter out and see if there is a short to ground on the wire. If none is found, replace the igniter. Here is the part to order.

your stove must be plugged in for the auto-pilot to work .do you hear a ticking noise when you turn on a burner?

hi
replace the lamp

Thanks for your question!

I'm sorry that you haven't received an answer yet.

The response rate on FixYa FREE questions is usually over 80%, but sometimes questions go un-answered when:
1. the question is unclear, incomplete, or poorly worded...
2. the question is mis-categorized - so the correct experts aren't viewing it...
3. the question requires an answer for something that cannot be explained online adequately...
4. specific training, tools, or equipment are required to avoid injury or death...
5. the Experts that are online simply don't have the resources to answer your question fully...

Please feel free to re-work your question if you feel one of these may be the reason.
Of course you are not required - but converting your question to a PAID one usually increases the reply rate as well.

Normal rates for FixYa are...
$ 9.99 answer for one question.
$12.99 Live Real-Time online chat or premium e-mail support.
$29.99 Live Real Time phone support
Sometimes FixYa will run specials for unlimited questions via monthly subscription or reduced rates for limited periods.


Consider the savings that can be had when an informed Expert can save you a $100 service call, or a $350 trip to the car dealership.
Your problem solved - guaranteed! Or your money back!!

If you don't want to pay - feel free to re-submit your question so it returns back to the top of the work queue if you still need help.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for helping with your FREE question

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101

Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.
Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.

Good luck!

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

heatman101

you need to clean out that particular orfice with an orfice wire cleaner available thru a welders supply or appliance parts store as the water minerals have dried and partially plugged the orfice tube and it can't get the right amount of air to burn the gas completely

Hi,
The most common problem with gas ovens is the failure of the ignitor...

Check out this tip that I wrote...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

heatman101