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I can bleed it and get a little less slipping i dont know what the thing is called i am bleeding but i may need new one i have compressed it in an i can do it without opening any bleaders or anything so i dont know if you are even supposed to be able to do that i was told when i got it it had a new clutch put in about 400 miles ago what could it be or what is the part i bleed called i have a 87 or 89 not for sure one or the other its a kawisaki ninja 1000cc 2 cam 16 valve so any info would be great thanx
Contact the person you got it from there may be a warrenty on the recently installed clutch !! you must make sure there is no leeks or problems with the clutch master cyclinder
The thing is called a clutch slave cylinder and it can be pushed in by hand...but the system won't usually cause slipping as a lack of pressure will make the clutch drag.I Is the release spacer (5mm thick plastic gasket) fitted between the slave and the engine casing ? If this is missing or broken then the clutch will slip all the time...
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if you have a hydraulic clutch there is probably no adjustment. it might help to bleed the clutch, similar to bleeding brakes.is the clutch slipping? if not i wouldnt worry about. if it is slipping you might need a clutch job.
It might be the flywheel make sure there are no oil leaks and clutch isn't contaminated does the gearbox select gears ok when it starts to slip before you re-bleed it?
Hello
A new clucth will slip a little at first. Its recommended to try to make the clucthes slip.
i just put in a set that instructed me to make the clutches slip.
A brand new set of clutches needs to seat and it will take a few times riding it before it does.
If they continue to slips after a few rides then you should have your master cylinder bled.
If the clutches are not engaging all the way, the clucthes will slip and motor revs but bike dont move.
if the clucthes are not disengaging all the way, the clutches drag, and the bike will edge forward because the clucthes are not disengaing from the motor.
Thats a pretty simple set up, hydraulic just needs to be bled all the way in the same manner you bleed a brake caliper.
once bled there is no adjustment and the clutches should disengage and engage within the first 1/2 inch of pulling in the lever.
Hope that helps, and don't worry about your new clucthes, they will slipp a little but will go away.
i'm sure of it.
Best Regards
Big Al
Dont need to be bleed . if that was the case the clutch would not release and stay on all the time
sounds like the clutch disc is wearing out and beginning to slip in the lower gears (they have higher toqure in these gears to get the truck to start moving ) which means they put a hevey load the disc and presure plate assembly .
you clutch needs bled better, i'm currently going through this now. If bleed your clutch hydrolics, and after a few days it starts sticking again, you will need a new clutch master cylinder and slaves cylinder. About $70 at autozone. Make sure when you bleed it you get NO AIR not even little bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Bleeding the cluch is much more difficult that bleeding the brakes.
if you have just instaled a new clutch you need to make sure the clutch disk has not ben instaled back wards and all the bolts holding the pressure plate are torqued evenly if eather is not corect the slave cyl will extend but not relace the clutch, if you have some one step on the clutch and it moves 1 to 2 in the problem is in the pressure plate or clutch disk,
There would be a bleed nipple on it. It would be located near the bellhousing. Open nipple a little let fluod seep out until no bubbles in it. Make sure you top the fluid up and dont let it empty.
I am totally unfamiliar with the particular setup you have, however I know a bit about clutches, Sifting through what you said, it appears that your clutch is set up too tight. By this I mean that the throwout bearing is always pressing on the release diaphram (or fingers) on the clutch cover. As you drive this is causing the clutch disc to overheat and slip. The repeated bleeding you are doing likely has no effect on this other than that the time you spend bleeding is allowing the clutch assembly to cool off. If the slave cylinder is part of the throwout bearing and is inside the bellhousing you need to remove it and get one that is slightly shorter. If the slave is mounted on the bellhousing and activates a clutch fork that moves the bearing you will need to find a means of backing off the slave adjustment so there is a bit of freeplay between it and the fork. likely since you can drive it you are looking at 1/4" or less play to get it right. My only concern would be that you may have overcentered the fingers on the pressure plate and damaged the return spring. slipping the clutch also has not done good things to the disc either. (like driving down the road with your foot on the brake is not good for brake pads) Good luck with your project !!
Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes. You'd pump the clutch pedal several times to get the pressure up, and then open the bleeder on the slave cylinder (mounted down on the transmission). Repeat and add fluid as needed until no air comes out.
Two things - first off, some cars have more than one bleed point (the Nissan 300ZX is one of those), so be sure there is only the slave cylinder to bleed. Second, if it went right to the floor, something failed - either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder. Changing the slave is relatively easy - usually two bolts and it comes off, you put on a new one, and bleed it as described above. Often the slave cylinder is less than $30, so it's worth it to try changing it if you can't get the pedal to come back off the floor on its own. A clutch master is significantly more expensive and more difficult to change, so start cheap and easy and replace the slave cylinder if you can't pump the pedal to get pressure built up for a bleed.
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