Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 2012 zx10r Cold Start Engine Knocking Kawasaki ZX 10R net 05 zx10 Clutch problem cause noise ZX Forums Kawasaki NINJA ZX 10 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 1988 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 10 Owner Manual
If the problem is worse when warm then it may be rich. try new oil, plugs and new air filter first. also check for a flooding carb or leaking fuel tap, or bad diaphram in the fuel tap clean the carbs, adjust the valves if it still has problems then lower the needles 1 notch keep notes on changes so you can change it back if there is no improvement or its worse
dyno jets may help if the jetting wrong or the exhaust has been altered from standard, but its not a miracle cure and wont help the starting on 3 cylnders problem which may be related
I have never known a cable to take up slack and get tighter! You need to find out why? I suspect you have a problem with the clutch plates failing and de-laminating. I would take the case off and remove them all to check.
Hi, Max and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 04 zx10 no spark How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle Kawasaki NINJA ZX 10 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
dont know what bike you have, but there is no wires at tail light that will affect charging. Most bikes have a stator that produces AC voltage powered by magnet in the flywheel, this then goes into a rectifier\regulator, which converts to DC and regulates voltage and then to the battery The regulator will have 1 or 2 plugs and 5 wires 1 red 1black and 3 yellow or white
The plugs you describe sound like indicator or earth wires , a power wire wont have a male bullet
1. Oil level is checked with the engine off and the bike on its center stand so that the oil level is even across the engine.
2. Without knowing the model and year of your bike, it's not possible to suggest the oil capacity for your engine. Some engines have the maximum oil capacity molded into the engine case near the oil filler; others do not.
3. Your fuel petcock is vacuum activated. When the engine is running, a small amount of vacuum keeps the fuel flowing when the petcock is set to "On" (main tank) or "reserve" (emergency dregs of the tank). "Prim" stands for "prime," which permits fuel to flow without the presence of engine vacuum. You'd use this if you ran the bike out of gas and needed to get fuel to the carbs so that the engine could be started again. You don't want to keep your petcock set to "prime" for very long when the bike is turned off (or even when it's on) so that the carbs can't overfill. In extreme cases, you can fill your crankcase with gasoline, which can lead to hydraulic lock and the potential for serious engine damage if you try to run your bike like that (I've had that happen to me).
4. Again, without knowing the year and model of your bike, I am not able to provide any information about the spark plugs used by your bike. However, if your bike has 18mm spark plugs, you'll need an 18mm deep socket to install and remove them. I recommend using a 6-point over a 12-point socket for this purpose--and spending the extra dollar or two to get a good quality, brand name socket. I have never seen an 18mm "spark plug" socket, but if you're really concerned, you can take the little rubber insulator out of an old spark plug socket and stuff it in an 18mm deep socket. I have never bothered.