20 Most Recent Samsung WF337AA Front Load Washer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

How did you test the pump? These were my symptoms as well, and my pump was working intermittently. Sometimes, I could test the pump and it would work perfectly, and sometimes it would not work at all. Try running a load; the next time the machine won't spin, use the drain tube to drain water manually (I used a big shallow pan). There's a sensor in the washer that won't let spin start unless the water is below a certain level. In self-test mode, there's even a way to see what the machine is seeing as the water level. Anyway, let the water drain out manually with the drain tube; the machine should start spinning once the water is below the specified level. If the machine displays "Err" or "ND" before you have the chance to drain the water, you can hit pause once or twice and it will try to start the spin cycle again. To directly answer your question: If the machine will not start the spin cycle, it could be because the washer thinks the water level is not low enough to start the spin cycle. This could be because the water level is not low enough (ie a pump that's not working properly or a clogged hose), because the sensor that detects the water level is not working properly, or because the motherboard is malfunctioning. My discussion with a repair professional indicated that the pump is (by far) the most common culprit. I bought mine on Ebay very inexpensively (around $35, I think?). It is pretty quick and straightforward to disassemble the machine (check youtube for how-to videos). Just be careful -- they apparently used 2 different pumps more or less interchangeably on this model. Check if your pump is gray or black before ordering; I bought the wrong one. I made it fit because we needed the washer, but I ended up soldering the wires to the pump and re-routing some wires to make it work. It was a hassle. The electrical connector is different between the two pumps, so you'll be saving yourself a lot of hassle by ordering the right one.

Contact manufacturer and get a new seal for your make and model washer, then follow instructions that come with new seal. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/frankie_091f536560a54e12

any error code

Change door gasket .

I fixed the bad odor problem once and for all! This problem is caused by mold and mildew growing in a large ventilation hose that runs from the top of the wash drum to a large vent hole in back of the machine. To correct this problem you can buy a kit from http://washerfan.com/ or do the cheap fix like I did. Step One: Find the vent grille on the upper left corner of the machine. Remove the machine top, only a couple small screws hold it on. Step two: Remove the hose clamps that hold the hose to the drum and grille then snap out the plastic grille. Step three: The grille is convex so I used a belt sander to make it flat then I took a computer case fan that was the same size as the grill and hot glued it to the plastic grille. I wired it to an old 12 Volt phone charger (12V 500 Ma) and made it blow air INTO the vent. Step Four: Put everything back together and enjoy a stink free washer because the mold can no longer grow in that hose. Note! You must bleach, clean and scrub that crud out of that large vent hose and it is some kind of gross! If you're allergic to mold please wear respiratory protection. My fan has been blowing air into the washer 24/7 for six months and I have seen those case fans run non stop for years. It it dies just snap the hot glue beads and put another fan on it. Total cost for the entire fix, about $10.00 Also note that you have to leave the door open a little bit for the air that blows in the back to blow out the front door.

You're either using the wrong non-He detergent or putting in too much. DO NOT use more than the number one line on the measuring cap and ONLY use High Efficency type detergent.

I fixed the bad odor problem once and for all! This problem is caused by mold and mildew growing in a large ventilation hose that runs from the top of the wash drum to a large vent hole in back of the machine. To correct this problem you can buy a kit from http://washerfan.com/ or do the cheap fix like I did. Step One: Find the vent grille on the upper left corner of the machine. Remove the machine top, only a couple small screws hold it on. Step two: Remove the hose clamps that hold the hose to the drum and grille then snap out the plastic grille. Step three: The grille is convex so I used a belt sander to make it flat then I took a computer case fan that was the same size as the grill and hot glued it to the plastic grille. I wired it to an old 12 Volt phone charger (12V 500 Ma) and made it blow air INTO the vent. Step Four: Put everything back together and enjoy a stink free washer because the mold can no longer grow in that hose. Note! You must bleach, clean and scrub that crud out of that large vent hose and it is some kind of gross! If you're allergic to mold please wear respiratory protection. My fan has been blowing air into the washer 24/7 for six months and I have seen those case fans run non stop for years. It it dies just snap the hot glue beads and put another fan on it. Total cost for the entire fix, about $10.00 Also note that you have to leave the door open a little bit for the air that blows in the back to blow out the front door.

I fixed the bad odor problem once and for all! This problem is caused by mold and mildew growing in a large ventilation hose that runs from the top of the wash drum to a large vent hole in back of the machine. To correct this problem you can buy a kit from http://washerfan.com/ or do the cheap fix like I did. Step One: Find the vent grille on the upper left corner of the machine. Remove the machine top, only a couple small screws hold it on. Step two: Remove the hose clamps that hold the hose to the drum and grille then snap out the plastic grille. Step three: The grille is convex so I used a belt sander to make it flat then I took a computer case fan that was the same size as the grill and hot glued it to the plastic grille. I wired it to an old 12 Volt phone charger (12V 500 Ma) and made it blow air INTO the vent. Step Four: Put everything back together and enjoy a stink free washer because the mold can no longer grow in that hose. Note! You must bleach, clean and scrub that crud out of that large vent hose and it is some kind of gross! If you're allergic to mold please wear respiratory protection. My fan has been blowing air into the washer 24/7 for six months and I have seen those case fans run non stop for years. It it dies just snap the hot glue beads and put another fan on it. Total cost for the entire fax, about $10.00

Error code D5 OR DS is the same.Its mostly DS which looks like D5. The D5 error is actually DS. The code means the washer thinks the door is open or unlocked during the cycle. The door has to be checked.Is it getting properly close/open.If its getting close/open then the problem is related to faulty door locking assembly. But if its not getting proper close then there is any blockage causing the door to close or the door lock latch is faulty causing this problem.

Hope helps.

pop out that door on bottom right. Get a salad bowl and 3 bath towels.Flip out that little drain hose and drain away/

The "dc" error code indicates an unbalanced load is preventing your washer from spinning properly. Try redistributing the load, then press the Start/Pause button. If the load appears well-distributed, you may need to make adjustments to the leveling legs to make sure the washer is properly leveled, removing the clothes and running a spin only cycle to make the necessary adjustments. Once firmly leveled, be sure the plastic leg locks are tightened to prevent them from vibrating loose.