20 Most Recent GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hey P! If the bottom won't ignite, it's your gas valve. If you need parts, give me a call or email us and we'll get the correct part out to you tomrrow so you can start cooking right away! You will need to provide your brand and model number for us to get the right part to you. We look forward to helping you out and hope to hear from you soon. Call us at 972-859-0929 or email [email protected].
www.accurate-appliance-service.com.

Your oven has a serial plate on the inside of the door frame or at the bottom when you open the bottom part of the oven. If you will call us with the model number, we;llget the right part out to you asap!
972-859-0929. We love helping clients out with their appliance repair issues and you'll be cooking great meals right away! We look forward to hearing from you real soon.

You need to be very careful with gas, and you may not be able to light this pilot again. Try to use a long lighter to see if it will accept the flame. If it does not, you will need to replace th gas valve. Give us a call and we'll be sure to get the correct part out to you right away! We hope this helps!

F7 stuck keypad
Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on.
Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

Possibly the bake igniter, the temperature sensor or the electronic oven clock/control. Does broil mode heat properly or does it run cool also? If broil heats to the proper temperature then the temperature sensor is probably ok. That leaves the ignitor or the controller which takes some more troubleshooting. If it is the controller, we repair them at www.fixyourboard.com.

Hello, This is going to be a problem with your igniter/glow bar. Over time these get old and although you may see it glowing iit still may be bad. Your igniter should glow a brillient yellow and should ignite the gas within 15 seconds of the valve opening.

here is a link showing pictures of typical igniters.

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=ge%20oven%20ignitor&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi

If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again...Good Luck! Mike

This could either be the gas ignitor or the valve may be out. Do you mean the burners aren't working? If so, you probably need a new ignitor. Hope this helps! :>)

remove oven bottom floor

Hi there,
Well, F7 error code occures due to
A = Function pad button stuck or 
B = Bad clock Unstick button or
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)

Replace the ERC there are ten screws 3 on each side and 4 on the control leave the hex screws alone all you need is a phillip screwdriver.
REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF THE POWER FIRST lift and fold out the control panel remove the ribbon cable and remove the four screws that hold the control board . replace control panel in reverse order.
Good Luck!!

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

I had the same problem and swapped the oven igniter with the broiler igniter and the oven now works. This proved the oven igniter itself was the fault, now I have to replace the broiler igniter with a new one(which is much easier to get to).

FYI: An igniter may glow red and still not allow the oven to work. The igniter has to draw a certain amount of electrical current for the main gas valve to open.

F7
Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on.
Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:

1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel

Control senses oven temperature above 615F-630F. shut down the breaker switch asap.

If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).

If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective.

Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit , not actual oven temperature.

Hi, If this model has a standing pilot, use a lighter and put the flame to the back center next to the burner assembly. Most newer models have electric ignitors now. It is fastened to the burner assmbly on the laft side.
If this an electric ignitor, turn the oven on and see if the ignitor glows. These ignitors are a very common problem and will probavly need replaced.
Please let me know if I can assist youu further.

Vic

if ignitor glows and the burner does not fire within 30-60 seconds it is weak (not drawing 3.5 amps or higher) and should be replaced. Hope this helps,please rate my solution

Hi, It very well could be the ignitor. Sometimes they work at first and then will not open the gas valve later in cycle. You can set the oven to heat and watch the ignitor. If it glows and the gas will not ignite in 30 to 45 seconds, the igniter is getting weak. I jope this helps.
Please let me know if I can assit you further.

Vic

CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...

Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.

Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.

http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/Dispatcher try this web site. Or go to geappliances.com, then service and support at the top of the page. Then enter your model number and it will show you the manuals you can down load for free. Good Luck

This will happen when the oven Control senses oven temperature above 615F-630F.


If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).

If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective.

Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit , not actual oven temperature.