Top 20 GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven Questions & Answers

There is a lot of troubleshooting and repair advice at the link I'm providing. In addition, they have parts available and hot-to videos. I'm sure you'll find your answers there. GE Oven Not Heating

Check to see if there is something blocking the burner tube. It sounds like it is blocked.

igniter needs changing very easy to do , I changed 3 last week on my rentals wont take but 15 min

this is normal as after manufacture these units are stored before shipment and they put a coating on the elements and bake racks so they don't rust during storage

Does the bottom element heat up red hot?

Hello,

The F3 error code means the oven sensor has shorted. To check the oven sensor disconnect or isolate the wire plug to it and on the plug at the sensor,use a ohm meter set to measure up to 2000 ohms and check the oven sensor at room temp. to be between 1060-1100 ohms if way more or much less the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.
This is what the sensor looks like it will be inside of the baking chamber of the oven.

GENE

There are two cause for this condition one is the temperature sensor and the other is the main control board. Since the sensor is cheap and easy to replace I sugest you take that road first. If the sensor thinks that the oven is over heated it will send a signal to the board and shut the oven down and lock the door to keep someone from being burned, it actually thinks the oven is in cleaning cycle. Here is a link to testing the sensor for your oven.
http://www.applianceaid.com/oven_temp_sensors_help.html

The sensor may be inside the oven near the top it is going to have a tube that is filled with liquid, some come out the back others out the front most of the time it is not hard to do just be sure that you do not kink the tube on the new one or it well not work. If a new sensor does not fix the issue it will be the control board.

Hi

F3 Error indicates a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

This indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Your model number was missing digits so I used this manual:
GRP17WEWWW
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=981380002.PDF
and if your unit is older this one:
http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/Dispatcher?REQUEST=ShowPDF&FileName=49-8514.PDF

Automatic Ignition

The oven burner is lighted by electric ignition. To light the burner, press the pad for the desired electrical function and press the INCREASE or DECREASE pad until the desired temperature is displayed. The burner should ignite within 60 seconds. After the oven reaches the selected temperature, the oven burner cycles off completely, then on with a full flame to keep the oven temperature controlled.

GE contact data:

If you don't understand something or need more help, call:

GE Answer Center®

800.626.2000
24 hours a day, 7 days a week


Both the new and OLD units use a glow bar for lighting the burner. Most likely your Glow Bar has failed: GE PN: WB2X9154

The Glow Bar is item 316 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=214914&diagram_id=20725728#d20725728

If you net search the WB ge part number you can save lots of money!!!!
http://www.amazon.com/WB2X9154-Gas-Range-Oven-Igniter/dp/B004H3XQPM

If the glow bar is glowing and you still do not get ignition respond here and we can go through troubleshooting.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101
..

Hi, my name is Jason and I'll be helping you today. Chances are one of your ignitors, more than likely, the bake ignitor, has gone bad. Usually it is located under the bottom pan of the oven, so you will have to remove some screws to take that out. Once you have the bottom out, you'll see a long aluminum pipe, which is your gas line, and a piece attached to it with two wires coming out, which is your ignitor. It will either be a rectangular shape or a cylindrical one depending on the exact model. Turn the oven on to see if this piece starts glowing, if it does and it doesn't light the oven, then the ignitor is bad because it isn't drawing enough amperage to open the gas safety valve to light. If it doesn't glow at all you'll need to check to see if you have power going to it using a voltage tester. If there is power there then the ignitor is totally bad and needs to be changed. If there is no power then your oven control, be it electronic or manual, is not working properly and will need to be change. Chances are its just the ignitor, but be careful when testing with live voltage, and if/when replacing a part always remember to unplug the machine to prevent shock of any kind. Once the problem is isolated, get the complete model number, which will be located on a tag somewhere on the oven and call a parts distrubtor to order the part. A reliable place is appliance parts depot. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hi, Error F7 on your oven means that the keypad is shorted or stuck and to resolve this issue you'll have to replace the Electronic Range control (ERC).

Most likely, you're oven igniter is not getting hot enough to open the gas valve to ignite the burner. It glows like normal, but does not reach the temperature required to open the gas valve. Replace the igniter. Before you replace that, make sure that the small shutoff lever on the appliance regulator was not accidentally closed, which would turn off the gas to the oven, while still allowing gas to the stovetop. The silver lever should be sticking straight out or up. Douglas

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Hello,

These codes mean that the oven's electronic control has detected a condition it needs to check. When you see a code, follow these steps:

• Press "Stop/Clear" to clear the display and stop the beeping.
• Reprogram the oven.
• If the code still displays, turn off the power to the oven at your breaker box and wait five minutes before turning it back on

thanks.

IF THE PILOT LIGHT IS LIT BUT THE BURNERS DONT FIRE IT IS PROBABLY THE THERMOSTAT. FREEZE A LARGE OVEN PROOF BOWL FULL OF WATER PLACE IT IN THE OVEN FOR TEN MINS TO COOL THE OVEN TO BELOW ROOM TEMP AND THEN TRY THE OVEN IF IT WORKS FOR A SHORT TIME THEN STOPS CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT