20 Most Recent GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven - Page 6 Questions & Answers

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Once again...I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. My email notification doesn't seem to working.

The part number for the bake igniter is WB2X9154. You can order a replacement part online at any of the following websites: searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com, pcappliancerepair.com or appliancepartspros.com. I recommend these sites, because they seem to offer the best service and offer competitive pricing. I would recommend checking all of them for the best price.

You do not need to remove the oven floor to access the connector wires for the igniter. Remove the lower drawer for access. Make sure you unplug the stove and turn off the gas before servicing. As stated before, the new ignitor may or may not have a matching plug to fit your range. If the connector does not match, there will be guidance provided with the new ignitor that instructs you to cut the wires and splice using heat resistance ceramic wire lugs. They should be included with replacement kit. DO NOT use standard wire lugs. They will melt. Let me know if you require further assistance. I hope this helps you.

replaced the control box that that governs the burner

The igniter will remain on because it controls the gas valve.

most common issue is a bad bake ignitor, easy fix, probalby about $75, located on the side of the bake burner, simple to replace a few screws and 2 wires

do both of you have a digital display? if so are you getting any codes that f- with a number?

Bob, an F3 error code denotes a failed oven temp sensor. See below.

F3 Open oven temperature sensor circuit Replace oven temperature sensor
The repair is pretty straight forward, but you should have the replacement part in hand before you begin. The part number is WB21X5301 and retails for about $95.00. I just found one online for $72.60!

The sensor is located inside the oven cavity mounted to the top of the rear wall. Remove the 2 screws and slide it out of there. The sensor has a plastic connector connecting it to the main harness behind the oven. Pull this carefully through the hole. If you can't get the plastic connector through, then you'll have to pull the oven and do this from the back... alot more work but still do-able. Simply disconnect the old sensor from the plastic connector and install the new one. Then feed the wires back into the oven and re-mount the new sensor.

If you don't have to pull the oven, the job should take about 20 minutes and all you need is a 1/4" nut-driver or socket.

If you have to pull the oven, re-post and let me know... I'll walk you through it.

There ya go!

hi there,

since you can smell gas, you have a gas leak. i would recomend checking and cleaning the gas valves. if you can hear sparking, that means it's just the valves. sometimes cleaning the rods will fix the problem.

hi thanks for the question remove that screw remove the burner assy now remove the screws that hold the igniter .replace parts thanks the appliance doc

hi thanks for the question I would replace the bottom igniter it has failed thanks the appliance doc

The following link explains how to replace a glowbar and how to measure them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401858-replacing_oven_igniter_gas_range

The first thing you need to do is determine which type of glowbar igniter you have. The current tolerances are different on each one. If you take a current reading and it is not within the prescribed range, replace the igniter (even if it is glowing). The easiest and preferred method measurement is to use an amprobe type multimeter and clip it to a single wire from the igniter.

Most commonly, the igniter, rather than a gas valve, goes bad after periods of use. In particular, the bake igniter because it gets used more often. In addition, your range should have a separate igniter for the broil manifold as well. Since most home owner's do not own an amprobe meter, you can swap broil and bake igniters to see if the symptoms change. If the symptom moves to the broil manifold, then you know you have a bad igniter. If the symptoms stay the same and then you need to consider the option that you may have a gas safety valve issue. Let me know what you find. I hope you find this information helpful.

PS I'm only assuming this is a bake manifold problem, as you did not say which one you were having problems with. This is the more common failed component, however, because it gets used more frequently.

The JGRP17 (not a full model number) does not have a pilot light. It uses glow bar ignitors. Watch the burner at the top of your oven when you turn on broil. After a short time the glow bar ignitor begins to glow, and a short time after that the broiler burner should ignite. The same thing should happen with the oven burner under the floor of the oven when you attempt to bake. If the igniter does not glow, or glows and burner does not light, replace ignitor. (looks like part # WB2X9154)

When you turn a burner to the light position, all burners should spark. If one is not, clean burner head area where the burner is not sparking. (dirty from boil overs)

GE jgrs14bew5bb gas wall oven temp button will not go higher than 360 degrees???

Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

• The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).
  
  
• The thermostat is defective.
  
  
• The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.
  
  
• The selector switch is defective.
  

if this helps please vote me a fix ya

the f7

Sounds like one of the control knobs got stuck or shorted in the start cycle. Can you get access to the inside where you can see each of the control knobs? Look for wiring and unplug one at a time. This may help you figure which one is shorted.

two things either hte clock(control ) assy not sending powerdown to the igiotr, or hte valve that the ignitor is connected to onst nay good, unplugh the unit andwitha meter try testing the 2 wire connections on the top of the safety valve( i wire goes to the ignitor nad the other is a neutral wire htt hooks downt to under the valve for the broiler, you should show continuity across those to leads, if not your valve is no good and will need replacing