1994 e350 7.3 diesel

no year told , nor country.
sold all over earth with lots of different engines,
my guess in Europe
1988 to1998.

• 1.9 L XUD9 turbo-diesel I4
• 2.0 L RF turbo-diesel I4
• 2.0 L DW10 HDi turbo-diesel I4

or
1999 t0 2005
2.0 L RF/RFM I4 turbo-diesel
2.0 L RHW/RHZ I4 turbo-diesel
2005 to 014

1.9 L F9Q I4 turbo-diesel
2015 up
1.6 L D16AA DDiS I4-TD

no telling year, country , and which diesel is here, makes answers
10x more hard. so now I go GENERIC and vague.

1. bad fuel, now filters are bad. , water in fuel or worse./
2. clogged air filter.
3. injectors clogged.
4. newer diesels, have EFI sensors that can be bad.
5. injection pump bad or messed with and fails.
6. engine compression fails. (a test)
7. tank lift pump bad,
8. and more but no engine or year told.

does it start and run for 3 seconds on test fuel

yes, engine ok, EFI bad.

no, bad engine, engine must be good to run.

EFI cant run bad engines..

so compression at spec......????



why beat the EFI to death,

all engines run on test fuel.

with gas engines, takes spark and good engine

on diesel, takes only good engine. simple huh (and some air)



for test fuel try diesel in a spray bottle into the injection port.

google this

or use youtube on test fuel on any diesel car. or truck



this is called basics....... basic basics.

1: good engine, and pumps air ok. (must breath)

2: good fuel.

3: test fuel works now. if not check above.

Hello, I operated a Ford diesel through Michigan Winters. There are usually issues with the Glowplug Timer or the Power Relay to it. If not that, then you probably have a bleeddown issue in the fuel system.

If you trace the wires off the Glowplugs, it will lead to the Glowplug Timer and then the next part is the Glowplug Power Relay. If you take off one Glowplug wire and put the Hot lead of a Voltmeter or test light on the wire and ground the other testing device terminal you can test it.

Just place the testing device where you can see it or have a helper observe it. Then try a normal startup. The test equipment should show that power is going through the wire. The power should pulse a few times and then stop. If you have NO power at that point, you need to follow the wiring I mentioned earlier and find out where the power stops. That part should be the bad part. You want to restore power to the Glowplugs.

If the wires to the Glowplugs have power, there is the remote possibility the Glowplugs are burned out. To test them yourself, they can be removed and connected to jumper cables and briefly energized. The Glowplugs that stay dark are bad.

The fuel system is another matter. First try a new fuel filter to replace a water clogged filter. It is also beneficial to find that fuel is in the fuel filter and that it is not dry. If the fuel filter is dry, then you most likely are bleeding off your fuel overnight. This will require testing the fuel line by using either a Vacuum tester or air compressor and removing and plugging one line end. The line should not leak.

Diesels absolutely require the Glowplugs to work and they work shorter periods in hot temperatures. You just have the pulses to heat up the Glowplugs. So if the Glowplugs are weak, it will show up in hot weather too.

As for the Injection pump, there are Electric solenoids in some which sometimes respond to a "tap" to get them going again. This will mean pump repair to finally repair it. A Diesel shop can also measure output pressure, which , I want to say can be 1300PSI. Beyond the capability of an Owner to do himself.

I hope this helps you and I would be very interested to know what you found.

Hi, if you have a voltmeter or 12 volt test light, I recommend you interrogate the fuel pump relay socket. Pull the relay out and connect one probe to ground. Probe the socket terminals with the other test lead. With the key off, there should be 1 hot terminal. With the key on, there should be 2 hot terminals. Move the first probe to battery positive and probe again. There should be one ground that shows 12 volts and one load terminal that shows lower voltage--like maybe 2 or 3 volts. There results will tell you what is not getting to the relay. If you can tell me the results, I will provide next steps.

check the mains.

don't know how you came to this conclusion but your fuel pump harness has four wires two for the gauge and two for the pump, if you dont know what they are you go over to a auto parts place have them show you one and look at the harness to see which go to the pump now go test the pump on your truck remember when you turn the key you will only recieve power to fuel pump for a few seconds to prime the fuel line after which once it starts the computer cintrols the rest. you might have a bad crank sensor causing it to not start.

have you check the fuel pump?or the fuel shutoff solenoid is going bad or loseing power. I also know that chevy has a problem with the fuel injection pump on the 6.5 diesel had one. the pump would go out around 50,000 mils

HI. There is an access cover, located inside your trunk. you will need ot pull off the trunk carpet, to expose the access cover. Once the access cover is exposed, you will need to remove the nuts that are retaining the cover. Once removed, the cover can be lifted, thus, exposing the fuel pump.

It has no power at the tank with a test light? It sounds like a bad ground.

Nope.. It's probably your pump mounted injection module (or injection pump) what ever you wanna call it.. A little control box up in the engine compartment next to the intake.. little 4 wire connection.. Pain in the **** expensive..