It is mounted to the base of the steering column. there are two small screws that secure both the switch and the ignition switch. Just remove the necessary screws and the old switch being careful to not let the rod fall out of the steering column- tape the rod in place. put in the new switch and replace the screws. here is a diagram of your column:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ah2LozuwGzsTCQoOYJbqO-q1GDPOzmYE/view?usp=sharing
Without testing no one on here could answer that for sure. . Looking at a wiring diagram an using a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter an testing the wiper electrical circuits is the way to find the problem . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/ Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on body & accessories , then under subsystem click on wiper / washer .Click the search button then the blue links . Then i suggest you watch these videos on electrical system testing .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SO-eKuhCOqc&t=125shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efKoWifdcag&t=4669s
Besides the wiper motor , fuse , the switch could be a problem too .
Should be between the radiator and engine, underneath the car. There might be a plastic cover held on with 10mm bolts. The starter bolts go up thru the starter, into the block.
Air bags and the air bag system need to be serviced by an approved auto shop. The light will come on when there is a problem with either an air bag or the bumper sensors which will trigger them in an accident. You should be able to determine the specific problem by checking the error codes with a code reader.
Adding a can of refrigerant might temporarily solve the problem.
A car of that vintage could have wide variety of problems. Since you have purchased the refrigerant, you should have a friend that has done this before show you how to do it. Don't be surprised if that does not solve the problem. I would recommend that you return the stop leak, and refrigerant, save your money and hire a professional to fix it. Find a grey haired auto air conditioning mechanic that is familiar with that year and model car. They should be able to determine quickly if it just low refrigerant or something more expensive.
If the key is not coming out of the switch, it may be off, but you haven't turned it far enough back that final click to remove the key. Some have a button you have to depress to get the key switch to turn back that final click. That's it.
To be sure it isn't seized up try to turn the engine over by hand ! Get a socket that fits the crankshaft bolt . 1/2 drive an a breaker bar , you can buy them at a parts store . Me i prefer craftsman . If it spinnes it's not seized , then you need to look at the electrical part of . Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits ? Voltage drop testing , how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Do you know the componets in the starting circuit ? Starter of course , PNP - park neutral position switch , starter relay , Heavy gage battery cable to the starter , control wire to the S terminal on the starter solenoid .
How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit
yes. You just need an honest, qualified mechanic. I'm not saying your last mechanic was not qualified, but any mechanic should know how to search and test for an unintended drain. Sounds like that is what you have.
Go on youtube and watch videos of "unintended, or parasitic drains"-there are hundreds of them. Any mechanic with a good multi-meter should be able to find it pretty quick-within an hour or two.
I wouldn't worry about the AC-your car is too old for it-too easy to have problems with a car that old, although if you have enough money, you can do anything. Just saying it would be expensive. The window problem is not an expensive fix, probably needs a new window motor. yours probably has worn brushes. The rear defroster is easy to troubleshoot with a multi-meter. Keep at it and you will have a good car.
The click is the solenoid not getting enough power to energise the starter and engage the pinion gear. Either the battery is weak or the connections going in the starter circuit have excessive resistance and need to be tightened/cleaned.
Your question is inconsistent with the fuse panel you are showing in the picture. The only place you will find the ignition fuses (there are two of them) is on the driver side, under the hood electrical center. They are 40 amp fuses in position/location numbers 3 and 4.
