Replaced the starter still not cranking also checked fuses and battery cables ground wires are good ,starter getting power turn key nothings happening all lights are working all gauges working (1995 toyota tercel)

Probably should check to see if there is power going down threw the small wire on the starter solenoid when the key is turned to the start position, that be a good place to start. Double check the battery cables, make sure they are in good shape, clean and tight. If there is no power to the small wire on the starter solenoid, it may be the starter relay, or even an ignition switch.

Nothing, if the battery is new you may have a bad starter.
Check ground wire from starter to where it's bolted to the frame; if you see corrosion remove cable and clean with a wire brush. Reset cable see if engine cranks. While you're at it, do the same thing to your battery ground cable. Good luck.

I know you said it isn't the battery, forgive me, be sure the battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Use a test lite and follow battery voltage. Battery ground is important also.
The battery voltage may lead to junction block--fusible links--fuse box?
At the fuse-box, pick any component that has a fuse, check fuse circuit for voltage, use a test lite. Some fuses are hot all the time, some go hot with key on, test both ways.
If the starter motor won't crank, check voltage and ground for the starter motor. Usually two voltage circuits at the starter motor, one comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other circuit goes hot with key in the crank position and is probably wired through the clutch or neutral switch then through the starter relay, where applicable, to the starter motor. The starter motor usually grounds through the engine block, so, battery negative connection is important.
Any testing at starter motor, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and functional parking brake is set. Safety is your responsibility. You don't want the vehicle to move during testing.

4.0L or 4.7L engine> the park switches are different.

you pulled a starter with out removing battery neg lug?
is that it?
your post makes it hard to see what the story is.
you replaced starter because car would not CRANK
or
you replaced starter, and shorted out the big cable and boom
and now all things are dead. what?
ill assume car would not crank one day
and you gue$$ a bunch of parts and guessed wrong,
guessing is very expensive.
------------------------------Testing wins--------------------------------------
so no crank 101, posted 100 times. ILL ASSUME it's a A/T tranny.
(im ignoring new parts, i never assume anything works i test it)

1. check all fuses in all boxes. using a voltmeter. 12vdc both sides key on and battery cables lugs area all clean and tight x4 ends.
2. you check battery volts its 12.6vdc rested, good.
3. you crank, and the solenoid just clicks. or only the starter relay only clicks, (more later on that)
4. you see that battery voltage never drops below 11v and crank time. (11v is typ, tad less if in Alaska, or bad battery or not charged fully)
5. You then jumper cable crank car, off a running donor car ,just like Mr. AAA tow does.... same to a fault. (google how) (hinting your battery is good, I have a battery load tester so can check)
6. if this cranks ok, the battery is bad. (happens or is discharged)
7. car still will not jumper crank.
8. we next hot wire the starter small wire to big lug. keys in pocket. Called hot wiring a starter solenoid.
9. engine does not crank, starter bad. or may be battery cables.
10. engine does crank nice , my keys are in pocket ,see?
11. ok starter is good, at test 10. so we now know its ok. easy huh>
12. now we know the key line is bad. 1 wire. end to end. easy.
13. you try to start in neutral, omg it starts. bad PRNDL switch.
14. or its bad starter relay.

now we show how it cranks. good starter and battery (& cables)
keyon,
put shifter in to park then neutral and crank.? fails both?

the starter relay must close cranked, if not, bad park switch or bad relay
in this moment (cranking) there must be 12vdc across the 2 relay coil pins.
pin 85 and 86 with volt meter, if 0v, the PRNDL switch is bad.
or on 4.7L the TRS switch.
if the relay closes, then jb fuse f31 is ok and pdc f8 must be good.
and you then turn key to crank. and relay pin 87 goes to 11v to 12v.
this then is a single wire that goes directly to the starter solenoid
tiny wire , it goes to 12v and starter cranks, 11v what you see here
unless in alaska , less. (10v ?)

see red arrow what is voltage there cranking?
we can go fast , if you just do that.

the transmission switch grounds the lower coil,here.
if not the starter will be dead forever.
both fuses must be good, or same.
12vdc arrives at top left fuse, and is hot only cranking.
if the right fuse, glows above the relay can not send power to the starter solenoid.

Hey Ray sounds like starter selonoid look on fire wall it will have a cable coming from battery and on other side a cable going to starter , with the key on ,in netural use a jump wire to touch each of the cables (the one from the battery and the one going to starter) ,if it cranks and or starts that's your problem and its easy to change . if not sure of wiring take a photo of them .
Woody

Clean and tighten battery cable connections and check battery ground, engine ground-should be a ground strap from engine to the body or frame. If this happens and you have nothing, no headlights, nothing-it's almost certainly a problem at or right off the battery.

But those are ignition parts. If the car won't crank, there is a problem between the battery, ignition switch, and the starter.
Try this, Darren: With key on, does your dash light up, gauges working and check engine light on? Turn key to start. Do you hear a click form the area of the starter? If you hear the starter solenoid click, and you know the battery is charged up good, then likely the starter is out, and needs to be taken off for testing or replacement. But that is assuming that the battery cables and their.connections are good and allowing full battery power to the starter.
If you hear no click in start, turn the headlights on and watch their intensity while someone turns key to crank. If the lights dim noticeably and no cranking, then the starter is bad or needs testing. If the lights don't change intensity when key is at crank position, then possibly the starter solenoid is bad or the circuit from ignition switch to the starter solenoid is not allowing current to pass. Take off the small wire (brown, I think) from the starter solenoid and see if it has power when key is in crank position. If it has power, the starter has to come off-it or the solenoid is bad. If no power on the solenoid wire with key in crank, then the circuit from ignition switch to the solenoid will have to be checked. There are at least a couple of components in that path- one is the starter relay, another is the neutral safety switch (or clutch switch on manuals). Also if no power on the solenoid wire, check the 30 amp fuse in the power distribution center by the battery. It may be fuse # 10, at least it is on a '97 Jeep. Heck, check all your fuses while you're at it.
Good luck.

Tilt the steering wheel down all the way and see if it starts, if it does then there is a main power wire loose in the steering columb. Thats all which comes to my mind at this time.

Could be a miss aligned switch try wiggling the shifter in park the next time it dose not start to see if starts.Also dirty battery cables will give you the same crazy makes no sense problems. Clean both the post of the battery and the cable ends and make sure they are tight. Your car needs a completely charged battery (14.2volt at the ignition) to start, were as the radio and other electronics, locks, windows, etc. only need a few amps. .

Starter Fuse? Possible failed ignition switch. Loose Cables on battery or starter. Starter not grounding properly. Bad starter Relay? Use Voltmeter check voltage going to main starter wire while someone cranks the motor if not power check power to starter relay while cranking if no power suspect ignition switch.