Top 20 2003 Ford Expedition - Page 6 Questions & Answers

They are just bolted on. If you climb underneath and take a look you will see where.

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I'd be looking at the condition of the battery first.Have you tried using jumpers to see if you can get it started?Tried disconnecting the battery and leaving it on a charger overnight? Cleaned the terminals and battery posts, cable connections?Lets try that and then see what happens.Cheerfuls!

Google search 2003 ford expedition owners manual & download it from ford for free that way you always have it on your phone/computer the radio instructions are there for all radios that came with the truck also your fuse box inside the truck & your power distribution fuse box under the hood this is needed in case of roadside emergencies and this will be a big help in searching for other problems that may come up unexpectedly

Maybe a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Obviously if the engine is crankiing a no start it is not getting fuel. Additionally if you have bad spark plugs then you would also have same problem. Start with the easy thing first. Fuel filter then fuel pump

have you checked your tranny levels if the oil is low when it warms up the torque converter will slip but as soon as you put it in reverse there will be enough oil in the finns to move you backwards .

Sounds like an electrical problem. Check fuses first. You'll need the owners manual. the fuse will be marked trans or EATX. Check the fuse and check to see if has power(key on). After that is wire chasing for power and ground to the transmission. Your transmission will shift because of pressure, but won't go into overdrive because it takes a solenoid to lock up the torque converter.

Check ignition switch the electrical wires

How about the battery? Is it good? Or ignition switch?

Bad connection, or frayed insulation short to frame or break in the wire. Bad switch? Does power side of switch actually have 12vdc?

Go buy the chiltons manual. There will be a chapter on this

Go to autozone and buy the repair manual. Look at it there to make sure it has the diagrams to fix.

I suggest the previous owner or supplying dealer is contacted to discover if they have the code which should be part of the vehicle literature pack and be transferred with the vehicle along with the keys. Usually a coded radio will not initially be permanently blocked, but after a wait a few further attempts to enter the code can be made but eventually the unit will be permanently blocked. Full details are contained in the audio manual which is also part of the vehicle literature pack. The audio code can be found by removing the radio and noting the serial number. Providing proof of ownership and the details to the manufacturer's dealer and paying hard cash and they will provide the number. There are cheaper online sources of code numbers but if the radio is close to being permanently blocked it will be too risky to enter any but the correct code. If the unit is permanently blocked the services of a specialist will be required to decode or recode it.

no clues,? like whats' dead? CJB, center junction box fuse 9 runs Alternator (internal reg. module, slave to PCM)

Your truck has what is called coil in plug commonly known as CIPS. They are located on top of the spark plug boot. You have to take out small bolt that holds it onto the sparkplug. Then you can take out spark plugs. The CIPS are expensive (about 85-100 per cip). I ordered mine on the internet for about 10 bucks a piece and the were new. Be advised you may not need to replace all the CIPS. I only had to change 3 out of 8. Have autozone run a code check then you will know exactly which CIP or CIPS are bad. I would change all the plugs if you have over 60,000 miles on them. Additionally after you change the plugs your truck computer will have to "relearn" the firining order. The truck will run rough for about 3-4 restarts then it will run smooth. Getting the plugs changed took me 5 hours. Theres a lot of stuff in your way as you will see once you get started. The back 2 plugs on both sides are a real pain. Good luck !!

I would suspect that loss of oil to certain parts was caused by mechanic not doing job correctly. You have to replace all sorts of seals and clean all sorts of parts when doing heads, timing chain, etc. All types of gaskets must be scraped off and parts removed that can let large chunks get into passages - that if clogged will fry the engine. To do all that work and have oil related failure is way too coincidental. If truck has oil pressure gauge did you notice it was reading low? If it has oil light did it come on? No matter what I would suspect sloppy work caused this. I have been doing this kind of work since the 70's so I have seen it all. Just for a tip - if motor needs head gaskets we have found it is cheaper to just pull motor out and put used motor in. It is cheaper and takes half the time. Check on web site car-part.com for used engine in your area and get this mechanic to install for free. It is least he could do.

DOES THE CAR START AND RUN ARE THERE BLOWN FUSES MAYBE WHAT ABOUT THE 4X4 CONNECTOR IS IT CLEAN ARE THE LINES HOOKED UP TO THE ACTUATORS HERE'S SOME PHOTO'S OF WHAT IS INVOLVED THERES A ACTUATOR VALVE THAT I CAN'T GET A PHOTO

The switch should be on the transmission at the shift lever. But it won't cause shifting problems. The cranking problem could be several other things.

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Check all fuses and replace brake light bulbs and clean the socets . Inspect grounds and wires at conectors . Bulbs at dash also .