Top 20 2003 Ford Expedition - Page 8 Questions & Answers

This is only a guess, but check that the air cleaner is fairly clean, and replace the idle air control solenoid (IAC). The IAC is located on the top of the engine, and is easily replaced...(2) bolts, an electrical connection, and maybe a gasket.

fuel filter or fuel pump

There's a few possibilities with this issue. Loose or corroded plug wires or ground wires can work loose when they expand from engine heat so make sure those are clean and tight. It could be a bad IAC (idle air control) valve, bad or dirty EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve or even a dirty air filter. Are there any codes showing when a scan is done on the truck? You can go to most auto parts stores and they'll have a scanner you can use to check. If so, Google the codes and see what they say. Good luck!

More than likely you can fix it yourself. There is a possibility first something has fallen into the shift mechanism and is blocking it from going into park. The other possibility is the shift interlock cable may have slipped off, or the cable broke. To fix this you would have to open the shift console. The interlock cable is the small one, it should attach to some sort of lever that prevents the car from shifting into or out of park. I hope yours has a floor shifter rather than a column shift, they are easier to fix. The last possibility is there is something in the engine compartment that is preventing the shift lever from reaching park, and though it's not likely I've seen it happen before.

Part of the MAF Sensor You change no parts until they are tested & fail a test,why would you,codes have nothing to do with parts replacement Have to find a problem & the cause

Could be a very dirty air or fuel filter. Usually the simpler answer is the correct one.

Elaine, not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)?????????? what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)your lost operators guide explains all that, right? eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive systemhere are the mode. which one , gives you problems.quote ford with comments. What are the modes, and how do they differ? (note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly) • 2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability, 2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled • 4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time) Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential, Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference, 4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled • 4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER) Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential, Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference, 4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled • 4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly) Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential, Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference, 4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction) If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft. What about traction management? 1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

What I did ,took off seat from scrap yard.

Why you here!

heater control valve

U may want to grease ur steering knuckle under the hood or up under the dash if that does not help it may be that your steering column may have a problem with the pins inside , if so u should see a mechanic to diagnose the problem as the steering could lock up on you

If all fuses are good and wiring is good too, then there are still a few things that can be the problem. The easiest ones to check first is the vaccuum hoses that operate the diaphragm that moves the throttle. They could be unplugged, cracked, cut, etc. and any vaccuum leak on the system will at least hinder it, and can also prevent it from working. If all that is fine, then you probably have a faulty sensor, solenoid or switch somewhere. The brake pedal switch is used in the system to disable it when braking, and some models have 2 switches on the pedal. One for the cruise control, and one for the brake lights. So if the switch is stuck the cruise will think ur braking and prevent it from working. The solenoids that controls the vaccuum going to the diaphragm can also be dead and not open the vaccum ports when needed, so the throttle won't ever move. These are easy to test usually with a multimeter, since solenoids are just coiled wired that make a metallic shaft move, so there are only 2 terminals on them and you should have some resistance between the terminals if they are ok. If you have direct continuity without even a little resistance, then the coil is shorted, and if you have no continuity at all then the coil is cut open, and in both cases you will have to replace the solenoid. The vehicle speed sensor is also used for the system of course, and there are a few here you will need to check, and there are usualy one or 2 on the differential, and in most cases each of the ABS wheel speed sensors will also be taken in account, which also means the ABS unit's computer needs to be functionning correctly. So if you have a brake or ABS light on or are having trouble with the ABS while braking, this might be your problem. Of course the transmission computer usually plays a role in this too and needs to be functionning correctly, but in these cases it becomes too hard to figure out unless you have alot of equipment and knowledge on those. So i'll cut the rest short and just say that if you have a check engine light on, then you have a problem that quite possibly will prevent the cruise from working, so go to a garage or friendly mechanic to have him/them get the codes out for you so you can try and fix the problem, and hopefully your cruise control will work after that. Hope this helps! :)

needs multi function switch

Get your OBD Codes & diagnose them Do your Preventative Maintenance Check for a failed battery

look under seat

under brake pedal check switch it can got lose, or wire disconnected. try by finger to push on it, if light come on, adjust for pedal

check for 2 bolts on the bottom of the steering column make sure that they are tight

Its under the dash on the passenger side of the truck. juat a few screws very very easy .

APP. Accelerator pedal position sensor. Is located at the top of the accelerator pedal under the dash. They are not hard to replace.

duplicate post. how do you mean car does not pull? same thing check belt