2005 Ford Focus ZX4 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hey Mike ok I'm pretty sure your looking at the pressure sensor switch and no you can just get that switch and replace it take it out and bring it to an auto parts store to make sure it's matched up to what you have spray out the connector with electronic contact cleaner or brake parts cleaner alcohol will do and clean the inside pump threads with just a rag with alcohol and let dry if the switch is bare plugged put silicone sealer or Teflon tape to seal the threads and your done but you must jack up the vehicle on both sides and put the steering fluid in and with the top off turn the steering wheel back n forth only from 10 o'clock -2 o'clock until the air bleeds out of the pump otherwise you will blow the seals in the power steering pump or the rack n pinion so just back N forth a little bit (DO NOT TURN THE WHEEL TO THE STOPS BLOWN UNITS WILL OCCUR) THEN SHUT OFF THE ENGINE WAIT TILL FOAMING BUBBLES HAVE STOPPED CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL AND ADD AS NEEDED THEN AGAIN SAME THING UNTIL THE FLUID IS AT THE FULL LINE WITH NO FOAM THEN CAP IT AND TAKE IT OFF THE STANDS THEN IN 10 MINUTES CHECK IT AGAIN AND ADD AS NEEDED NOW THERE SHOULD BE NO AIR IN THE SYSTEM and the level should be at the fill line as close as you can get it a little either way will be ok but try to get it at the line good luck Mike if you have time go to rockauto.Com and look up your vehicle and then the switch and the plug so you can see them and if no rush you can order it from them they are the cheapest or a parts store where you are for immediate repair if needed depending on where you are the switch should be about $35.00 -$40.00 rock auto is from $20.79 -$34.79 + shipping auto zone is $38.49- $52.49 but thats for nyc where you are could be more/less so look them up at each site to match it up and others and balance it out for your needs ok good luck stephen

You can yes. The wiring maybe a bit different so hopefully the tape deck will have the wiring diagram on it still as most did then use a test light to find your constant power as well as you ignition power, ground and of course just matching speakers. The only thing I could see being a problem is if the vehicle has a factory amp in the vehicle then the answer would be no

dealer -auto store - junkyard - online search

This site has a lot of torque specs. http://www.championbrands.com/aera-torquespecs.pdf

Hold the lock button in, and they should slide all the way out................

go to google and check all the parts houses you want

reverse lights . Automatic transmission or manual . Principles of Operation The voltage supply to the reversing lamps is provided by the reversing lamp switch on vehicles equipped with a manual transaxle and by the digital TR sensor on vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle. Inspection and Verification

1. Verify the customer concern.

1. Visually inspect the following for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Reversing lamp switch (manual transaxle)
• Digital transmission range (TR) sensor (automatic transaxle)

• Central junction box (CJB) fuse(s):
  • 40 (10A) (automatic transaxle)
  • 53 (10A) (manual transaxle)
• Bulb(s)
• Circuitry

1. If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct the cause (if possible) before proceeding to the next step.

1. If the cause is not visually evident, connect the diagnostic tool to the data link connector (DLC) and select the vehicle to be tested from the diagnostic tool menu. If the diagnostic tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
   • check that the program card is correctly installed.
   • check the connections to the vehicle.
   • check the ignition switch position.

1. If the diagnostic tool still does not communicate with the vehicle, refer to the diagnostic tool operating manual.

1. Carry out the diagnostic tool data link test. If the diagnostic tool responds with:
   • ISO circuit fault; all electronic units no communication/not equipped, refer to Section 418-00 .
   • No response/not equipped for the GEM, refer to Section 419-10 .
   • System passed, retrieve and record the continuous DTCs, erase the continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for the GEM.

1. If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the Generic Electronic Module (GEM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index.

1. If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, GO to Symptom Chart .

Generic Electronic Module (GEM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index DTC Description Source Action B1810 Lamp Back Up Switch Input Circuit Failure GEM If the reversing lamps are inoperative, Go To Pinpoint Test Q . If the reversing lamps are always on, Go To Pinpoint Test S . When the transaxle is placed in REVERSE, voltage is routed to the CJB fuse 40 (10A) through circuit 15S-TA38B (GN/BU). The voltage is then routed to the reversing lamps through circuit 15S-LG9 (GN/BK).

Possible Causes
• Fuse
• Circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH) open
• Circuit 15S-LG3 (GN/YE) open
• Circuit 15S-TA38B (GN/BU) open
• Circuit 15S-LG9 (GN/BK) open
• Reversing lamp switch
• CJB

PINPOINT TEST Q: THE REVERSING LAMPS ARE INOPERATIVE Test Step Result / Action to Take Q1 DETERMINE THE TRANSAXLE TYPE

• Check the vehicle and determine the type of transaxle.
• Is the vehicle equipped with a manual transaxle?

Yes GO to Q2 . No GO to Q5 . Q2 CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE REVERSING LAMP SWITCH

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: Reversing Lamp Switch C1407.
• Key in ON position.
• Measure the voltage between the reversing lamp switch C1407-2, circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH), harness side and ground.
• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?

Yes GO to Q4 . No VERIFY the CJB fuse 53 (10A) is OK. If OK, GO to Q3 . Q3 CHECK CIRCUIT 15-LG28 (GN/WH) FOR AN OPEN

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: CJB C270f.
• Measure the resistance between the reversing lamp switch C1407-2, circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH), harness side and the CJB C270f-9, circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH), harness side.
• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes INSTALL a new CJB. TEST the system for normal operation. No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation. Q4 CHECK CIRCUIT 15S-LG3 (GN/YE) FOR AN OPEN

• Key in OFF position.
• Connect a fused (10A) jumper wire between the reversing lamp switch C1407-2, circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH), harness side and the reversing lamp switch C1407-1, circuit 15S-LG3 (GN/YE), harness side.
• Key in ON position.
• Do the reversing lamps illuminate?

Yes INSTALL a new reversing lamp switch. REFER to Reversing Lamp Switch in this section. TEST the system for normal operation. No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation. Q5 CHECK THE PCM TRANSMISSION PIDs

• Key in ON position.
• Enter the following diagnostic mode on the diagnostic tool: PCM Transmission Range PID.
• Monitor the PCM transmission range PID while moving the transmission shift lever through all the transmission ranges.
• Do the transmission ranges agree with the PIDs?

Yes GO to Q6 . No REFER to Section 307-01 to continue diagnosis of the transmission. Q6 CHECK CIRCUIT 15S-TA38B (GN/BU) FOR AN OPEN

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: CJB C270d.
• Apply the parking brake.
• Key in ON position.
• Place the transmission in REVERSE.
• Measure the voltage between the CJB C270d-14, circuit 15S-TA38B (GN/BU), harness side and ground.
• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?

Yes PLACE the transmission in PARK. GO to Q7 . No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation. Q7 CHECK CIRCUIT 15S-LG9 (GN/BK) FOR AN OPEN

• Key in OFF position.
• Connect a fused (10A) jumper wire between the CJB C270d-14, circuit 15S-TA38B (GN/BU), harness side and the CJB C270d-15, circuit 15S-LG9 (GN/BK), harness side.
• Key in ON position.
• Place the transmission in REVERSE.
• Do the reversing lamps illuminate?

Yes INSTALL a new CJB. TEST the system for normal operation. No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation.

I assume the lights were NOT on while the car was being driven?? If these lights stay on for an extended period (more than 5 minutes) of time after the engine has been shut off, this may suggest you have a faulty instrument cluster or potentially a parasitic drain on the battery caused by faulty wiring or an accessory that is drawing power from the car when it is off. To make sure there are not oil pressure issues ... I would check your oil dip stick level .... and also read any OBDII codes to see if the check engine light triggered anything. If the only issue is the lights going on ... which means there is an electrical issue ... you will probably have to take it to a good mechanic for troubleshooting the problem

very easy just go to reliable-store it has all manuals there many other websites also but in this matter this website is too good

This is likely one of two things: worn rings on the piston, or a slightly poorly-fitting or dirty valve (one or more of the four). You might, before digging into this, consider running a can or two of a good 'over-the-counter' engine 'restorer' at your next oil change. This may help dissolve any gum or carbon making rings or valves stick. Some fuel treatments may help if there is physical gum or carbon holding a valve slightly off its seat when closed. There are more involved treatments for cleaning valves and upper cylinder 'in situ' -- some of which are somewhat snake-oily. Note that if rings are causing the problem, you will get 'fluttery' pressurization at the engine-oil fill hole with the engine running, as the 'lost compression' will be blowing into the crankcase volume. You might check by putting a small quantity of non-detergent oil (or diesel fuel) into #4 through the spark-plug hole and bar the engine over a few times to ensure no hydraulic lock. This should improve seal long enough for a compression test. (It will smoke while the oil burns off, but this should not hurt the cat). On road testing, light haze at start that soon clears up indicates worn valve guides, which might be related to low compression if the bypassed oil has carbonized to hold the affected valve off its seat. Rings might produce haze after high-speed running or heavy acceleration, or produce heavier oil blow into the PCV system (as the oil area is now being pressurized with relatively hot combustion gas). If it is not rings, and an OTC treatment doesn't solve the problem well, you can take the valve cover off and inspect the valvetrain, stems, and cams to be sure all the valves are working freely, there is no binding holding any one of them slightly off its seat, etc. I suspect that if there is anything going on with valves that a cleaning treatment doesn't fix, you're looking at pulling the head, in which case you should plan for a full valve job (as its costs would be relatively slight in comparison with re-timing, replacing the head gasket, etc.)

i need code M001983

The light sensor is on the dash where the defrost vents are and look like a black bubble. i think that light is for your daytime running lights

I would think it's a bit early for a USB port, and if there was one it would be in an obvious location, check the drivers manual

There is a connector from the steering column to steering gear box. It is metal and rubber often with springs. When it wears out it does what you described.

No you can't , Anti-theft system won't allow it .

the ccable on the gas pedal broken

Try removing the batteries from the key that has been wet.and just use the other key to see if alarm fault occurs. If fault still happens take to local dealer or specialist to.check alarm system.

The fuse center in the car is behind a panel under the steering wheel. The park light fuse is #6. Bottom row of fuses 6th from the left.

YouTube question solved

Bit late but thought I'd add my two cents, I've got a 2007 f/focus auto, my shifter became extremely hard to shift the other day, I continued driving to work and left it for day hoping it would come right. Anyway, finished work and shifter was still stiff, on my way back home had my hand resting on lever and i felt the plastic on the stick wasn't up properly and was sitting in the hole for the stick, needless to say problem fixed, hope others benefit from this post as I myself was about to dismantle the transmission!!