2005 Ford Focus ZX4 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

See: https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2009_Ford_Focus_SE_2.0L_4_Cyl._Sedan_(4_Door)/fuse_interior/replace

vehicles do not throw codes otherwise you have to pick them up, thy are displays all codes are on line . P0320 OBD II Trouble Code Ignition Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit... OBD II Trouble Codes Home

Here are a few things to try and get your Ford Key Fob working again: 1) Change the battery Batteries don't last forever, you'll be surprised how often it's just a dead battery! Click here for a video on how to open a GM key fob, or search our YouTube channel on how to change a battery for your specific year, make, and model! 2) Wipe the board The board inside your remote can get a lot more filthy than you think! When the board is dirty it can prohibit the contact to the circuit board when you push down on the button. Simply wiping the circuit board off can make your key fob like new again! 3) Get it checked Go to your local hardware store like AutoZone or Oreilly's. They usually have a RF frequency tester. This little gadget will let you know if your key fob is sending a signal. If it is, you may need to reprogram your key fob to your vehicle 4) The old car battery reset trick I know this sounds absurd, but it works sometimes and is worth trying. If you exhausted all of the options above, disconnect both terminals on your car battery for 10 minutes. Then reconnect them and try your key fob. This has worked for many people and I have no idea why. If you do, please comment below to explain. 5) New fob! It might be time for a new key fob! No need to dread over the expensive costs of a new key fob, at Keyless Entry Remote Fob Inc., you can get a refurbished one for a very affordable price! You won't even be able to tell the difference. Just search your vehicle make, model, and year to find your key fob or give us a call at 402-671-5100.

The body control module is malfunctioning.

I recently tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. It would'nt move forward or reverse, engine was good both solenoids for forward and reverse worked, but still couldn't diagnose the problem. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and now it works perfect! covers wiring, codes, diagrams, torque specs, PCV, everything got it from www.reliable-store.com

Under the hood.

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website www.reliable-store.com that i used to get manuals from, and they have all models online. I also brought for my 1989 BMW, such old model, they had it and it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

Wiring, schematic, electrical diagrams, fuse diag, error codes, torque settings etc are basic contents of these online books they have here on this website www.reliable-store.com I have attached. Must check it out

Go to www.reliable-store.com you will get all info and solutions there definitely

Nigel, Check out this link: http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-electronics/3350-instrument-cluster-display-brightness.html unfortunately,...it doesn't sound like there are a lot of options

If you're comfy with manuals then i know few websites that can help you with it. Bcause I've got it from various websites so I know how each site deals. try www.reliable-store com . Very helpful

When rocking the steering there is usually some noise from a steering system that has a few miles on it especially from the majority of power steering types as not only is the rack slipper bearing likely to make noise but also the hydraulic spool valve and possibly even the rack end bush. Sometimes the clunking noises can be worrying they are so loud. If there are steering stops on the lower arms and hubs the noise can be very loud on full lock and a moving vehicle. There might be track rod problems but there is no point guessing - the car has to be inspected, jacked up and the wheels shook to check for wear and free play and on the ground the steering wheel has to rocked while the steering gear is inspected. If inspection finds nothing the noise is clearly caused by "acceptable" wear...

I always fix these vibrating focuses by changing the motor mount on the right front (passenger side here in canada) BUT IT MUST ONLY BE A NEW FORD OEM MOUNT!!! No other will remove the vibration.Fixed 68 so far with this fix.

When you say will not crank over,do you mean it won't run or the starter won't turn the engine to start? IF the starter is turning the engine BUT it won't start,look on the side panel forward of the passenger door under the glove compartment area,you will see a hole.put your finger in and push down on the fuel reset switch,the car should run now.

What year is your focus ? Maybe controlled by a GEM - electronic module .

hiya cars dont have relays for brake lights as its too low power. If you have power across the switch you may want to check the connections to the bulb holders and then check the bulbs themselves. If no power at bulb holders you need to check the loom which, unless you have had some welding or similar disruption would be very odd. Check for a good earth at rear bulb holders too, quite oftena poor earth will cause many faults.

Has the vehicle been in a crash or minor accident recently? Have you installed any amps or anything under the seats? Are seatbelt tensioners working properly? These are typical issues. Here is a list of airbag codes: Air Bag Fault Code Table AIR BAG DIAGNOSTIC MONITOR FAULT CODE PRIORITY TABLE Priority Code Component/Fault Description Highest -- No Air Bag Lamp - Inoperative Lamp Circuit or No Ignition Voltage to Diagnostic Monitor ' -- Continuous Air Bag Lamp - Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative ' 12 Low Battery Voltage ' 13 Air Bag Circuit or Crash Sensor Circuit - Shorted to Ground ' 21 Safing Sensor - Not Mounted on Vehicle Properly ' 22 Safing Sensor Output Circuit - Shorted to Battery Voltage ' 23 Safing Sensor Input Feed/Return Circuit Open ' 24 Open in Circuit 944B or Low Resistance in Crash Sensor(s) ' 32 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - High Resistance or Open ' 33 Pin 7 Not Grounded at Diagnostic Monitor ' 34 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - Low Resistance or Shorted ' 35 Low Resistance Across Pins 8 and 9 at Diagnostic Monitor ' 41 Crash Sensor Circuit - High Resistance or Open ' 44 RH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 45 Center Radiator Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 46 LH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 51 Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse - Blown and Short to Ground No Longer Exists ' 52 Backup Power Supply - Voltage Boost Fault ' 53 Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault Lowest -- Rapid Continuous Flashing of Air Bag Lamp - All Crash Sensors Disconnected

I have a 2002 Ford focus lx and my timing belt and tentioner needs to be replaced when I bought the car the guy just told me it was the belt I did try to turn it over but it will not start i put my hand over the fuel in jecter it back fire's and I was told that my timing is way off can you tell me what is wrong with my car the belt looks good and I'm getting fire to the spark plugs what do you think could be wrong. Lucas pitt

This has 1 bolt use an extension grab with pliers

There's an emissions sticker under the hood that tells you if not auto zone or the Internet will tell you