Porter Cable Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

I have had the same problem but only with one of the three batteries I own. I can use that battery on my flashlight without issue but will stop with my drill and my saw. I hope this helps.

It could be. Check there is power going to the motor. If there is, you need a new motor, if not a wire is broken.

ck out this site.... https://nailerpros.com/porter-cable-nail-gun-leaking-air-from-exhaust-port/ And here for kit.... https://www.amazon.com/903775-Overhaul-Kit-BN125A-BN200A/dp/B0BMTS8WHX/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bn138&qid=1688850048&sr=8-4 Best to you. Hope it's somethimg simple like loose screws.

You may disassemble the channel where the nail exits. I have found issues where a burr causes the driver to hang. My issue was on a different type gun.

good guess , look online for rebuild kits.

I too have a Model RN175 Type 1 which will fire one fastener without retruing the driver. This Type 1 does not have the selectable trigger (that allows alternating between single shot and automatic firing). So the previously posted solution (selector mid-way between SS and AS) doesn't apply here. I did a rebuild of the body and replaced the trigger assembly. Still no joy.

I called Porter Cable customers service and technical engineering (888-848-5175 and they suggested check the following items:
1) free movement of the head valve piston and good condition of the spring and o-ring
2) the condition and position of the check seal. This is a rubber sleeve with a lip that must slide up onto the anodized cylinder and COVER THE HOLES. (It has to be installed AFTER the big white plastic cylinder spacer is installed.)
3) the exhaust port to make sure that there was not trash stuck up in there
4) correct air supply pressure
Turned out for me that it was item #2 that was my problem. The rubber sleeve was not stretched up onto the anodized cylinder. This was probably due to initially hitting something hard when nailiing (blew it out of position) then my reassembling it incorrectly.
Hope this helps!
Great nail gun, great company, great customer service!

not car is a Porter Cable PCB370SS (Type 1) 16" Scroll saw

The Porter-Cable CTE 3000 generator uses SAE 10W-30 motor oil.

It certainly sounds like you may need to replace the seals on the tool.

The two main culprits are loose screws or bad seals.

Try tightening all the screws on the unit.

If that doesnt fix then you will need to purchase an overhaul kit for your model or take to a repair shop.

Since you did not give me your model #, Here is link to locate necessary parts:

http://servicenet.deltaportercable.com/

Thanks

That particular battery is defective and falsely indicating it is charged.

There are two screw that attach the motor to the impact head andit seems they have a habit of backing themselves out. the torque of the motor cause the motor to begin rotating in the plastic housing and eventually it pulls the wire out of the back of motor.. I buy and sell tools and almost every one I've found not working it is because of the same problem. couple screws some soldering and threadlock and $$ I bought 3 for 5 $ at fleamarket last week.

it has 2 gauges , one for tank pressure and the other is the regulator output. tank pressure is on left. The pop off is starting to release because is worn and should be replaced. if unit is only making 30 pounds on tank gauge you have other problems . If that is true personally i would replace it. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-c2006-type-compressor-parts-c-129_1662_16249.html

you may have to rebuild it again. inspect nail gun piston cylinder to ensure that it is not worn or scratched. Is the gun lubed before each use and periodically under heavy use?. Water from compressed air will damage gun.Use quality parts use buna n o rings not buna o rings good luck https://www.ereplacementparts.com/repair-center/article/7451/How_to_Install_an_Overhaul_Kit_in_a_Porter_Cable_Nail_Gun.html

sounds like a voltage regulation problem with the generator

First get some teflon thread tape, for applying 2 or 3 tightly wrapped turns around the male threaded quick-disconnect adapters, threaded end on your air hose and compressor before installation.
Note: remember that the female quick-disconnect adapter is also a check valve that will only release air when a male quick-disconnect adapter is inserted, i.e. do not install a  male quick-disconnect adapter directly to an air compressor outlet.
Note 2:Always remember to wear approved eye protection when operating air tools.
Start by installing the female quick-disconnect adapters on a male threaded end of the air hose and on to the outlet port on the air compressor tighten the connections with two open end wrench's. Then install the male quick-disconnect adapters to the other end of the hose, blow-gun tool, and the air chuck tool, (tighten as described above). The other implements in the kit (wire brush attachment, inflation needle, etc...) can be threaded in to the outlet port of the blow-gun as needed.
The operation of connecting  quick-disconnects are as follows: Grasp the tool in one hand, and with the other hand grasp the air line near the end leaving the thumb and fore finger free to operate the spring loaded outer release cylinder on the female quick-disconnect by pulling back on it. With the cylinder pulled back, insert the male quick-disconnect adapter in to the female quick-disconnect adapter, then release the thumb and fore finger from the outter release cylinder, thus locking the two together. check to be sure the lock has engaged by lightly pulling at the tool. Reversing this process will disengage the tool from the air line.
Hope this helps Good luck

The nose tip is most likely stuck in the ready to fire position from too much force being applied when nailing. These guns are small and sensitive to forces being applied. Try bumping it to see if the nose tip is retracting and compressing with each bump. Unplug and unload the gun before trying to pull the tip of the nose to retract if it is stuck. Check for foreign objects obstructing the trigger and safety mechanism

check ram is returning /retracting all the way --debris in feed rails --damage feed rail

Usually dependant upon load and RPM of engine.

This is usually indicative of someone pushing down on the sander too hard while sanding. The motor in this sander is strong enough to pull the belt around even with too much pressure on the sander. This causes excessive heat to build in the sanding belt and sander shoe which causes the belt to break down prematurly. It's also very hard on the sander's bearings and motor. Use an appropriate sandpaper grit that will do the job without excessive pressure on the worksurface. This will make your sanding belts and sander work longer and cooler.