20 Most Recent Porter Cable C2002 Wk Oil Free Umc Pancake Compressor w/13 Piece Accessory Kit Questions & Answers

First get some teflon thread tape, for applying 2 or 3 tightly wrapped turns around the male threaded quick-disconnect adapters, threaded end on your air hose and compressor before installation.
Note: remember that the female quick-disconnect adapter is also a check valve that will only release air when a male quick-disconnect adapter is inserted, i.e. do not install a  male quick-disconnect adapter directly to an air compressor outlet.
Note 2:Always remember to wear approved eye protection when operating air tools.
Start by installing the female quick-disconnect adapters on a male threaded end of the air hose and on to the outlet port on the air compressor tighten the connections with two open end wrench's. Then install the male quick-disconnect adapters to the other end of the hose, blow-gun tool, and the air chuck tool, (tighten as described above). The other implements in the kit (wire brush attachment, inflation needle, etc...) can be threaded in to the outlet port of the blow-gun as needed.
The operation of connecting  quick-disconnects are as follows: Grasp the tool in one hand, and with the other hand grasp the air line near the end leaving the thumb and fore finger free to operate the spring loaded outer release cylinder on the female quick-disconnect by pulling back on it. With the cylinder pulled back, insert the male quick-disconnect adapter in to the female quick-disconnect adapter, then release the thumb and fore finger from the outter release cylinder, thus locking the two together. check to be sure the lock has engaged by lightly pulling at the tool. Reversing this process will disengage the tool from the air line.
Hope this helps Good luck

SIX

First locate leak with a spray bottle filled with soapy water.Use Teflon tape on the threads so it will seal.Check all fittings.If there is water you need to drain it or blow it out.

Take plug out and wrap with teflon tape and reinstall....should be as good as new.

Everything I read in the owners manual suggest you take unit in for a trained service tech to repair. It could possibly be a few things causing this but from what I can see there are not that many replaceable repairable parts for this. Good luck

No there is not from I can see from the breakdown and manual. They suggest that you check your circuit breakers in the electrical panel, extension cord length or loose wire in the box, If nothing they recommend that you take the unit in for a trained service tech to look at it. If you want or need a manual for this go to Dewaltservicenet.com and in the middle of the page at bottom type in the model number and you can look at both. Sorry but this is all I can find for you.

I also have a PC Model 136 belt sander. Although I don't do a lot of woodworking, it has proved to be a workhorse when I needed it. I don't have a problem with breaking belts - the last ones I bought at OSH. The problem that has developed with mine is getting the belt alignment adjusted, after a belt change, to not run against the sander body. A little banging (with my hand) will correct the problem. I have serviced it to free up the fulcrum, but it still jams most of the time. This doesn't address your problem, but it is good to hear of someone else who appreciates the fine older tools. Just a further thought - the newer belts I have purchased are bi-directional, e.g., they will run either way. I know that the older belts had to run one way and running them backward could - almost surely would - cause them to break. I won't insult your intelligence to suggest that that might be your problem.

The brushes are not replaceable - it is an entire motor assembly. 1) remove the 2 screws holding the top handle on 2) remove the 2 screws on the top of the housing (front either side of switch) 3) remove single screw holding cord hook (rear side of housing) 4) remove small torx screw in the shaker handle and remove the handle Flip over and using a screwdriver begin to pry the top cover off the housing (easiest to get the front side off first)

any word on type of nailer?

call this company, they have the different types I purchased from them and no complaints https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-7800-

first you need to remove the tank and get rid of the rust with a rust kill agent, vinga or chemical type with corrosive converter, then liquid paint the inside of the tank, swilling the paint inside and leave to drip out. then find a high pressure line filter, these are a solid filter and put in line. to stop this happening again to the tank you can also put a drop valve in place and when not in use press to release the air inside as this is what rusts the tank. but after the restoration it should be fine without a filter.

Is this it? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/132302/Porter-Cable-Bsv750.html

I suggest that you make sure that there is no air he tool so, remove the air supply. Then if you remove the cover from the nose (Making sure that you also take out all the unused nails first) it should allow access to the front nose plate. If you remove this, it will allow you to carefully remove the nail. While you're at it, check that the driver blade tip doesn't have any burring or damage to it. If so, you might need to fettle it back into shape or, replace it?

take it back for a warranty exchange make sure that the voltage listed on the machine is the same as used in the house

Remove the screws holding the 2 sides together and expose the wiring. Remove the remnants of old cord and replace with new one. Reassemble.