Kitchen Ranges - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Range Top glass, or Oven Door glass? You have to expand the search. My first search would be GE JB910SL6SS (which part) glass There are many companies, some hold stock, some order and drop ship from GE warehouse. The other alternative is companies that only supply or even make tempered glass for ranges. the first hit is Amazon where you may be able to buy by searching the dimensions? https://www.google.com/search?q=GE+oven+replacement+door+glass& Or it's time for a nice shiny new one. ..

I have attached a link with a procedure on it. Give that a try, it that does not fix it the main control will need to be replaced. Good Luck

Have you looked in the usual places? https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=16290

The self clean function is a way for the makers to get revenue from broken parts and lulling you into thinking you get a clean oven. The typical things to break are elements, fans, door locks and control boards. Your either has a broken lock and isn't passing the self check, or the control board has failed. The temperature is just too harsh. If the oven works, get a can of Easy Off. If you want to use the feature, you will need to get a service 932 F° A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters with an extremely high temperature (932 F° or 500 C°) to aid in cleaning. Jan 29, 2020

Why You should Never Run A Self Clean Oven Cycle & A ...

https://www.generalappliancesvc.com > why-you-should-...

4 Solid Reasons to Stop Using Self-Cleaning Oven ...

https://fixappliances.ca > 4-reasons-stop-using-self-clea... A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters with an extremely high temperature (932 F° or 500 C°) to ...

If the cooktop is wired for 220v operation, one "leg" may be out.

Question edited for maker. Question moved from Light Office Equipment & Supplies. Yes the Pop, meant an electrical part has fused or the control board is damaged. Due to the costs involved, call for service, or get your multimeter out and start testing for continuity on that burner circuit. https://www.google.com/search?q=GE+j+b256d+m2ww+cleaning+sensi+temp+button ..

Hi I Have A GE XL44 That Is Running Very Hot I Want To Know How To Troubleshoot Because When I Was Cooking Plantains I Did Burned My Fingers Because Of The Oven That Is Running Too Hot

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You are 2 seconds too short. :>D To unlock the cooktop: Touch and hold the CONTROL LOCK pad again for 5 seconds. A two-beep signal will sound, and the CONTROL LOCK light will go out, indicating that the cooktop is unlocked. If that doesn't work, phone their helpline. https://service.geappliances.ca/medias/PHP900DMBB-user-warranty-guide.pdf?context=bWFzdGVyfGltYWdlc3wxMzY2NTYzfGFwcGxpY2F0aW9uL3BkZnxpbWFnZXMvaDY1L2g0Yi84OTM1NTM3OTAxNTk4LnBkZnxlZTIyNzhiMjYyMzFlOWVmODhlZjdhYzBhNjNhMTQ0YjZiZDA2ZTk0MmI0ZjU5MWQ1MWI0MjljMmQ0ZTE4MzAy This is the second induction hob issue in 2 days. To my thinking, the technology is too new for home use. Do you need help?

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Customer service: 1-800-561-3344 ..

Question edited for clarity. You range is a GE. Energuide is just a label to tell you that it is designed with money saving in mind. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. F2 is and temperature regulation issue. If you have a GE oven, the error code F2 on the oven means that the temperature sensor has detected a temperature in excess of the preset threshold. The cause could be a sensor malfunction. However, that's unlikely because there are several GE oven error codes, and a bad sensor should trigger an F3 error code, not F2. Nevertheless, you should test the sensor anyway. If it checks out, you're probably going to have to replace the control panel because it's likely fried. https://www.expressrepairwinnipeg.ca/general-electric-oven-is-displaying-f2-error/ and also https://www.hunker.com/13416829/how-to-fix-a-ge-oven-showing-error-f2 Parts https://www.partselect.ca/Models/GRCR3960ZBB-1/ ..

This range actually has to model numbers Mary. It is actually a JGSP20GEP1BG as sold by Sears. The proper number is the one in the drawer sticker. Here is the manual. I would caution against using the self clean function. The heat is so severe it causes damage to door locks, elements and even control boards. We see the damage here week after week. https://www.geappliances.com/content/older-pdfs/49-8318.PDF .. https://www.justanswer.com/appliance/5hqq0-purchased-home-ge-plt083-2-drop-stove-oven.html ..

UNLESS YOU ARE A TRAINED TECH I SUGGEST GETTING A NEW RANGE

I think I got this.... my oven clock does run slow for months then perfect for months, then slow again. I believe a repair would be a waste of money since there is nothing wrong with the clock. The problem is with the supplier of electricity. The oven uses 220 so may be related to the coverting 220 to 110 v. The clock is counting cycles in the electricity supplied to your home and that varies all the time.

YES IT DOES DUH CLOCK NEEDS TO WORK

So F71 does mean that your touchpad is failing or one of the buttons is sticking. Try to unplug the oven and use a hair dryer to heat up the touchpad. Rub the buttons with your thumb in case one of them is sticking and then let the unit cool down. Plug the oven back in and if you still get an F71 error, the only thing you can do is replace the touchpad

The left front burner is clogged.

Never Ever use cleaning cycles. 8 times out of 10 they break things, oven elements, door catches and even circuit boards. You will need a service visit. click here https://www.google.com/search?q=ge+oven+repair+near+me ..

Had this happen, was advised that it is most likely the clock board, and that there are NO internal parts available for the XL-44. Turned off the power at the breaker box, pulled the two upper back panels off (the bottom one must be removed first, as the top one has a difficult-to-access sheet metal screw on the bottom inside at either end), then just pulled the common neutral lead (white wire that daisy-chains along the various electrical bits) from the E2 terminal on the bottom left side of the clock board. Applied some heat shrink tubing to the now-disconnected neutral lead to keep it from shorting, and buttoned up everything. The clock is dead, but everything else works just fine and there's no annoying buzzing sound any more.

Control board is going bad. You may have an F5 or FFF error code if your model shows error codes. Control board needs to be replaced.

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