I am replacing existing three way switches to a bathroom light should both be wired the same? ive got one white wire one red and one black on each i hooked the red ont top with the white underneath black on other side only hall switch will activate bedroom switch in in the on position then bedroom will work off and on hall switch will only operate if bedroom is in on position if either switch is off other switch wont operate

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

The other two are travelers and if the circuit was previously hooked up correctly you can connect the white and red to either screw.

Sure George.

These in-wall timers have extra wire to operate the electronics located inside timer.
You said your old switch has 3 wires.
The new timer can only replace on-off switch that has 2 brass screws and a green screw.
If old switch has 2 brass screws and a dark screw, that is a 3-way switch.
Typically a 3-way switch is found at both ends of hallway.
The Woods 95008 countdown timer is not made to replace 3-way:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#59000

Here's what to do:
1) Switch has 2 wires (plus bare ground wire). Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
2) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires. This wire will power timer electronics.
3) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground, along with timer-green wire.
4) Turn on electricity, and push override button located below the OFF button. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.

Add a comment if your need more assistance.

Right now a single switch turns on both light and fan.
You want to put in a double switch to control light and fan separately.

But the problem is there is not a separate wire to each the light and fan.
You need a separate wire to each, but the circuit wasn't wired that way.
Usually when the circuit is wired for separate control, there is a red wire that also goes to ceiling box.

Unless you run another wire to the ceiling box, it won't be possible to control light and fan separately.

Electrician can do this pretty easily if there is attic space above bathroom.

Ok you only have two switches, so you would use one switch for your bathroom light, and the other for both the fan and the light, the light will come on when you turn the fan on.Connect the incoming black (hot) wire to both switches. Then connect the black wire to the switch you want for your light. Connect the other black to the second switch that goes to your fan and light. Connect the three white wires together (neutral) Connect all ground wires together, and leave a pigtail to connect to the ground terminal on the light switch. If you want separate switches for light in the fan and fan, you will need another conductor and a three gang switch.

Please note that there are many ways to wire this device.
In general, this is how the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT device is usually wired:
There are 3 wires permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are for switching _only_ and are in no way connected to the GFCI receptacle at the factory. The black is "common", which means that this is the wire that is connected to the incoming HOT (black) wire _from_ the circuit breaker (or source). When making this connection add an approx. 6 inch black pigtail to it. (more on this later.)

The red is connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to, pick one, let's say the existing lights. The yellow is then connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to the new exhaust fan.

The incoming white (neutral) wire that is in the same cable as the incoming HOT wire is connected to BOTH the white wire that goes to the existing light and the white wire that goes to the new exhaust fan. Again, when making this connection, add a 6 inch white pigtail to it.

The switches will now work.

Do you now see that to power up the GFCI receptacle all one needs to do is connect the (see above) 6 inch black pigtailed wire to the "HOT" (LINE) screw terminal and the 6 inch white pigtailed wire to the "WHITE" (LINE) screw terminal?

In this case the lower LOAD screw terminals on the device are _not_ used.

Hello. Since the two black wires were capped off, leave them that way. Now hook the red wire to the black in the light bar and the two whites to the white in the light bar.
That's it. Regards, Joe
ps kindly rate my answer. thank you.

You cannot replace the switch with a switch/receptacle combo because there is no neutral wire. The black and white that you see are both used as hot wires. One is the Line and the other is the Load.

You have to install another 2 wire cable or replace the existing with a 3-wire cable. A 3-wire cable has a black, red, and white, plus the bare ground wire

The red and the black are the hot wires. One will be the fan and one is the light. The white is the 'common' for both fan and light.
It sounds like the new fixture has got one hot for both the light and fan, they will both run all the time from one switch. This is the blue wire. Hook it to the red or the black, which ever one comes from the switch you want to control it. Hook the white to the white on the new fixture.
The green is just a ground. hook it to the new fixture green or ground terminal. Cap or the black or the red that you don't use. It won't be need for the new one. The switch that it comes from will not control anything now.


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Wiring a bathroom combination vent, heater, light 3 way switch means more wires. In brief, you need to run two cables - one a two wire and one a three wire from the switch to the fan.

Incoming power will have white black and ground.

The two wire cable for the switch to the fan will have wht, blk, and ground.

The three wire will have red, blk, wht, and grnd.

The switch will likely have 2 blacks and a red coming from it, with two blacks and a red on one side, and a single black on the other.

The fan should have a red, blue, green, black, and white.

On the fan end: Group all green/copper grounds together and use a wire nut to fasten them together. Tape the nut to the wires.
There will be five white wires coming through. For ease of handling, using wire nuts, connect two on one nut and three on the other.
connect the blue to a blck. Connect one red to one black, and the other red to the other black.

The switch will have one red going into the 3 wire cable, a black going to the 3 wire cable, and a black form incoming power to the side opposite the 3 wires, and a blck going to the two wire cable.

There. Confused?