20 Most Recent Broan-NuTone FAN CONTROL SWITCH Questions & Answers

Sounds like the load is shorted. You don't say what the switch is controlling. What happens if you jump out the switch and just connect the load, then turn on the breaker? If the breaker trips, it's the load itself that's shorted.

Do you have triple switch or multi-function switch?Is the night light part of the switch?http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#triplehttp://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#BroanSelect correct wire size and breaker:http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.htmlWhich brand and model number switch do you have?What are you replacing?Add comment with more information: If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

4-function switch can be 4 individual switches in a bank of switches, or it can be a combination of switch and timers.Some timers need a neutral wire, while others, such as spring-wound timers do not need neutral wire: each of these items is wired separately.Copy following link for switch illustrations, including 4 function switches.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches#ganghttp://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

well, this is an interesting monster. It appears that the unit needs to have constant power and a control circuit. Here is the manual, wiring diagram is on page 8. So, you will need to feed power directly to the fixture, after this, you will need a minimum of 3 wires and a ground between the fan and switch location. Power goes down to the switch on the orange wire, When power is sent from the switch back up on the yellow wire, the unit is on, when this connection is open, the unit is in standby. When power is sent from the switch up the blue wire, the unit is in hi, when this connection is open, the unit is in low. I do not know about the switch you are trying to use, because you did not provide a model number. If I were wiring this unit, I'd use either two switches or a stacked switch.

You have a triple switch that controls bathroom heat, fan, light combo.
When lights are off inside room, and you flip the heater switch, you see a flash of light inside the switch.

The switch is mounted in electrical box. If flash is inside the box where electric wires are, then that is NOT normal and should be looked after by checking connections and securing wire nuts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html

If the flash is inside the switch, then that can be normal. But it also might be time to replace switch if switch is old.
What happens inside a switch is that 2 brass connectors come together.
The amp draw from heater is large, so a lot of electricity suddenly passes across the brass connections and produces a flash of light.
If flash is accompanied by a sound, for example crackling or fizzing, and/or you smell electrical burning, then that indicates the switch needs to be replaced.

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Wiring a bathroom combination vent, heater, light 3 way switch means more wires. In brief, you need to run two cables - one a two wire and one a three wire from the switch to the fan.

Incoming power will have white black and ground.

The two wire cable for the switch to the fan will have wht, blk, and ground.

The three wire will have red, blk, wht, and grnd.

The switch will likely have 2 blacks and a red coming from it, with two blacks and a red on one side, and a single black on the other.

The fan should have a red, blue, green, black, and white.

On the fan end: Group all green/copper grounds together and use a wire nut to fasten them together. Tape the nut to the wires.
There will be five white wires coming through. For ease of handling, using wire nuts, connect two on one nut and three on the other.
connect the blue to a blck. Connect one red to one black, and the other red to the other black.

The switch will have one red going into the 3 wire cable, a black going to the 3 wire cable, and a black form incoming power to the side opposite the 3 wires, and a blck going to the two wire cable.

There. Confused?

They might be referring to a combination switch. Also known as a stack switch it allows multiple switches in a single switch box. If you have enough wires going to the fan, you can control all the functions separately.

I wish we had more information to go on here.

1) You have 2 cables to to the Heat-Vent-Light
One cable is 12-3 and 1 cable is 12-3

2) That's where it's gets fuzzy.
What color wires are on HentVentLight?
Is power at the ceiling box or at the wall box?
What other wires are inside the wall box?
What kind of switch are you installing?

3) With that number of wires, it sounds like power is at ceiling box.
Power would arrive at ceiling box on one cable that has a Hot-black and Neutral-white wire.

4) Start at wall box:
Let's suppose you are installing a wall device that has 3 individual switches, with one switch for each HentVentLight.
The Hot wire from ceiling box would drop down into wall box on a black wire, and this wire connects to brass screw on switch.
Wire going to heater connects to one of the silver screws.
Wire to fan to another silver screw
Wire to light to another silver screw.

5) Work at ceiling box:
Let's suppose your HentVentLight has 4 wires: Black for light, Red for fan, Blue for heater, and White Neutral.
The white neutral connects to Neutral wire as described in #3.
Black, Red and Blue connect to each of the wires that come up from switch.

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First you need to test your wires to find hot wire.
Hot wire connects to black wires or dark screws.
Electricians test the wires before hooking up anything: buy 5$ multimeter from Home depot to check continuity (ohms) on wires of new device, and test wires inside box for hot and neutral wires.
Electricians also make careful note of each wire and what it connect to before taking out old device.

Next step to clearly answer your question: you should add a comment and say:
> what type of device you are replacing.
> exactly what the previous device controlled.
> The screw-color where each wire was located on previous device.
> say what other wires are located inside box you are working on
> Exactly what new device manual says each wire on new device goes to.
Without this information, my response will fill 2 pages trying to cover every possible option.

If you don't want to provide more information, then click at bottom of page to select a paid answerer who can speak to you over the phone > and then you can give that person the information and they will follow through until your project is done.

I answer questions for free.
I know electrical wiring.
I have an image of the 66V, but it does not show the screws or color of screws.

I cannot find a manual.
SO, if you can 'add a comment' to this post and tell me the color of screws on each side of switch, I can tell you with 100% certainty where your wires go.

Otherwise I will shoot wild and see if I can hit the target.
1) One side of the switch has dark-colored screws and the other side has brass screws. The Hot black wire from breaker attaches to the dark-colored screws. The wires going to Load (fan, light) attach to 3 brass screws.
2) One side of the switch has brass-colored screws and the other side has silver colored screws. The Hot black wire from breaker attaches to brass screws. The wires going to Load attach to 3 silver screws.

I know wiring and we can solve this problem.

A better description of your wires in required.
Then 'add a comment' at bottom of page, and it e-mails me, and then I can hook up the wires for you.
The following 8 questions are key to solving the problem.

The heater-fan-light has how many wires?
Exactly what color are the fan wires?

How many cables enter the fan-light-heater box?
Does each cable have a black-and-white?
Are all these cables from the switches?
Are there other cables that enter the fan-light-heater box?
How many switches control the fan-light-heater device?
Is each switch a simple on-off switch or are there 3-way switches too (a switch at each end of a hall is example of a 3-way switch)

Oct 2010
If you 'add a comment' I'll be here for next 3-4 hours
We'll get it done

Hi,
You just need to take another wire off of the hot or black wire of the outlet and run it to the switch for the fan...wire the light and the outlet just the way they are now...you are just adding another circuit to the mix...jumpering off of the outlet will be fine because the fan does not draw much power at all...

heatman101

Oh Boy! ...Oh Boy! Lol...:) Put the Earth/Ground, (usually green and yellow) wire in the on screw side.

Then, get the Fan's black wire, and connect with the Light's white wire,...then put it in the any one of the Screws, (usually a hole where you put a wire through and screw down to hold. Golden ~ like in color).

Then, get the other Fan's white wire, and connect with the Light's black wire, then put in the other Screw hole. :)

And Whala :)

I would add a second switch. Jumper the present black wire to feed both switches and then use 14-3 to go to the light with black wire and the fan with the red wire. You can get the double switches in a type that will fir in asingle box. They are the double switches that are one above the other where the levers are horizontal. hope this helps you. Jeepfxr

The red and the black are the hot wires. One will be the fan and one is the light. The white is the 'common' for both fan and light.
It sounds like the new fixture has got one hot for both the light and fan, they will both run all the time from one switch. This is the blue wire. Hook it to the red or the black, which ever one comes from the switch you want to control it. Hook the white to the white on the new fixture.
The green is just a ground. hook it to the new fixture green or ground terminal. Cap or the black or the red that you don't use. It won't be need for the new one. The switch that it comes from will not control anything now.
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You are correct.

Yes

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