How do i unhook the electrical connection from the display to the power wire?

Don’t know the actual resistance but a common mistake that people make when testing heaters are not unhooking the power wires. Unhook at least one side, either red or black before testing continuity. You will then find your problem. Likely a bad limit switch, not coil.

If you have an exact replacement for the thermostat. Draw a diagram of the wires and the location of the connections take a picture of the thermostat with your cell phone. Then compare the drawing to the picture to be sure you have all wires .once you have them all . Then if you have wires that are the same color but hooked up to different connections. Simply place a piece of tape on one of them and make note of it on your drawing . then Unhook the wires and reconnect them to new thermostat. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS off at circuit breaker.

If I understand correctly, you have Sylvania 170 timer and the display doesn't light up.
If you have different problem, add a comment.

A) If this is existing installation and timer display worked correctly before, then it sounds like timer malfunctioned or power to timer is interrupted. Check breaker, and then pull out timer and test for power.

B) If this is new installation, then 2 possible things:
1) Timer defective: exchange for new one.
2) Timer not wired correctly.

Review wiring:
Timer replaces single pole switch.
Single pole switch has two wires
Timer has 3 wires: Blue Black White
Timer has additional wire to run internal clock and to light up display.
If timer not wired correctly, then display will not light up.

Here is correct wiring:
a) Two wires from switch.
b) Connect timer-blue wire to one of the switch wires. Choose either one for now. You will have to choose other wire if display doesn't light up.
c) Connect timer-black wire to other switch wire.
d) Timer-white wire does NOT connect to either switch wire. Look in back of electric box. There are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. These are neutral wires. Connect timer-white wire to neutral wires. This will power the clock and display.
e) If your box does not have the white wires described in d), then connect timer-white wire to bare ground wire.
f) Turn power ON. Does display light up?
g) If display lights up, switch is wired correctly.
h) If display does not light up, then reverse timer-blue wire and timer-black wire shown in step b) and c).

This could a bad temperature sensor or a bad clock.(ERC).
Disconnect the power.
Remove the rear panel.
Unhook the temperature sensor wire and test the temp sensor with a volt/ohm meter set for ohms.
A plus/minus reading of 1100 ohms is good.
If temp sensor reads good replace the ERC(clock).

if they dont unclip or bold right at the tank back track them for about three feet if you can not find a wire plug to unhook buy some heat shrink wire connectors mark and cut wires when u install new crimp wires back together make sure wires are tight in connector use a lighter to shrink the connector and you will be alright while doing any of this make sure to unhook ur battery never mess with and electrical without unhooking if you were not already aware

un hook the incoming power lines, turn the breaker back on, and carefully measure power between the 2 hot wires, not the ground. You must have 220 to 240 volts between these 2 wires, if you dont either the breaker is bad, or the wire is broken somewhere. If you have 240 volts to the heater, with the power OFF unhook the wires from both elements and use an ohm meter to test the resistance on the elements, both should be around 30 ohms and about the same, if not one is bad. Test across the elements after re connecting them and turning the power on you must have 240 volts across the elements when they are on, if you have only 120 or 0 then the trouble is the breaker or the wire.

With power disconnected, ans wired unhooked, connect an ohmmeter or continuity tester to the terminals. It should go from having continuity to being open as the switch is moved.

Check the plug, both the male and female side. Sounds like a loose connection. Check the connections going in the back of the dryer too...remove the little plate (with it unhooked) and check the tightness of the wire.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

The wires may have gotten wet and fried something in the sound output in the stereo.

theadore something is not connected right or something else got disconnected. there is no reset on these mixers. may i ask why you removed the back housing?