I spent 30 minutes trying to manually rip it apart and a further 30 attempting to get tape out of packaging. I ended up with 3 very nasty and avoidable cuts to my hands. Resorted to garden shears in the end.
SOURCE: Does not cut through the tape
Here is what Dymo has to say about this issue:
https://global.dymo.com/enUS/RNW/RNW.html?pg=std_adp.php&p_faqid=68
Here is the text in case the link drops:
Question
Why can't I cut the tape after printing a label?
Answer
Every time a label is cut,
residue from the label's adhesive remains on the cutter blade. This is
a normal occurrence when the LabelMaker is used frequently. It is
important to regularly clean the cutter blade in the cassette
compartment with either the special brush delivered together with the
LabelMaker (located in tape compartment door) or a cotton tip swab and
a soft solvent (e.g. alcohol).
If the solution above does not
resolve the problem, check for tape path obstructions. If the problem
persists, please contact DYMO Technical Support to obtain a Return
Material Authorization (RMA) number. To obtain an RMA number, scroll to
the top of this page and click on the Ask a Question tab. Make sure to include your full name, address, shipping, and contact information.
-Hope this helps
SOURCE: Overheating?
yes - it is cutting out on overheat. there are two fans - which one was replaced - cavity fan or casing fan?
possible reasons are:
faulty casing fan
not enough ventilation
faulty overheat stat
faulty fan stat
oven operating stat faulty but you would be burning your cooking in this case
SOURCE: cutting knife adjustment
Hi,
I have found this info...it mentions both threading and changing the knife width. I hope it is useful.
http://www.singerco.com/pdf/14SH654_threading.pdf
SOURCE: Tape End Sensor Error - UVW1800
these error codes point to possible problems with one or both reel motors.
SOURCE: how do I plane the edge, end and surface of a board?
Are your arms big? Good, cause that is how you do it. With a lot of muscle. They have too many power tools out there now to make it easier. But if you want to do it the old way, you will need a handful of planes, not just one block plane. You need a couple of jack planes, smoothing plane, and scraper plane, to get a nice surface, the jack plane, 12 -14 inches long will go right over the bumps and flatten those edges right out, Keep it square to the edge. Look by eye and use a square to check. Your end grain can be done with your block plane, get it in a vise and take little cuts. Your surface is the tough one, it takes a sharp iron and a steady hand to surface a board, some woods don't like being surfaced, some do. Again, start out with the scrub plane, 8-12 inches, and run it against the grain to smooth, then the jack plane with the grain to flatten, then the scraper to finish. Rip saws are hard to come by, the teeth are at a 90 degrees to the saw. and wide, and you need big arms. The japanese saws have both edges on their saws and they work great. But you can't beat an electric planer. Hope this helps.
The hand
that you are not using to hold the knife is called your guiding hand. It holds
the food and keeps it from slipping around on the board.
You should use something called a claw grip, where you use your free fingers to grip the food that needs to be cut whilst tucking them under so that they wont be in the firing line if the knife slips.
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