Frigidair LTF2140ES3 has no power to start switch, (good power at wall connection)

Its the transformer I just had two with the exact same failure . No sound when hitting start just popping the house breaker and blowing the internal fuse. I thought the same as the rest that it was the capacitor because that is usually the suspected component but nope not on the frigidair ffmv164lsa and also on the kenmore 79080323310 made by frigidair with the same parts inside. Same Mag cap and diode same transformer both had a shorted to ground transformer!!

PF means Power Failure,try unplugging the unit for 20 minutes to possibly clear the computer control inside the unit,then try starting it again,if this doesnt help try unplugging and replugging in all connections in case theres a bad connection,lastly if this doesnt solve it,replace the control board

Hello bidness_67 please check inside of the sink cabinet look for a switch on the back wall. If there is one flip it. Many new building electrical codes require a switchto turn off power to the dishwasher. Sometimes when putting items in the cabinet the switch is hit unknowingly. If there is no switch check outlets (the GFCI ones)and press the reset then check the dishwasher.if not those two items check breaker box for a tripped breaker.

Try this; Remove the cartridges, disconnect the usb cable, turn off the machine, unplug the power chord and switch off the adaptor from the wall switch, leave the machine for few minutes while you do some cleaning, like cartridges contact points, clean the rear panel door, also open the front panel door and check for any foreign particles, you should remember that even a small/tiny piece of thread or hair can create this problem. Now connect the power chord, switch on the wall switch, and power on the printer without the cartridges installed and the usb cable connected. Use the Power Button the switch on the printer. Leave it Switched On for few minutes and again turn it off, install the cartridges, connect the usb cable and again reboot the unit. Press the power button once and again keep pressing when it starts booting. If the problem still persists, your printer needs service.
Good luck.
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I can help with this but I need some more clarification. Does the switch on the wall not do anything at all, or does it turn them both off or on. The black wires are the power wires and the whites are your neutrals. You figure out what wires are coming from your switch. If there was a switch on the wall that controlled your chandelier before that there has to be a white and black wire that go to that switch. Look at the switch in the wall. If all you see in the switch box is a black and white wire then they did a switch loop, which means they started the power up in the fan box, sent it out to the switch through the white wire and brought it back to the fan through the black wire in which case the one white wire up in the fan box is a powered wire. If there are four wires in the switch box (2 black two white), then they brought the power into the switch box, tied the whites together as neutrals and connected the blacks to the switch. So then up at your fan the white is neutral and black is power. To wire a switch loop at your fan, find the power wire, connect it to the white wire that goes out to your switch and the black wire from your switch will get connected to your fan motor and fan light. If it was not a a switch loop connect fan to the black coming from the switch and all whites will get tied together. Good luck!!

There is an auxiliary switch in the door lock and switch assembly that is activated at the end of the wash cycle to advance to the spin cycle. When the machine works except advancing to the spin cycle, it signifies that this auxiliary switch cannot be activated and the door lock and switch assembly is faulty. Replaced the door lock and switch assembly (part #131763202) to fix the washer.

Disconnect power to the machine. Open the washer door then look for the retaining hoop securing the door seal around the lip of the door opening. Stretch the retainer spring of the door seal retaining hoop then remove it.

Carefully peel off part of the door seal from the lip of the door opening near the door lock and switch assembly. Remove enough of the door seal to gain access to the door lock and switch assembly.

Remove the screws securing the door lock and switch assembly to the front panel. Once the screws are removed, lift the door lock and switch assembly then pull it away from the front panel.

Take the door lock and switch assembly out of the machine. Disconnect the wires from its terminals then connect it to the new door lock and switch assembly.

Put the new door lock and switch assembly back into position in the front panel and secure it with the securing screws.

Properly put the eased part of the door seal back over the lip of the door opening then secure it with the retaining hoop.

the switch is on your thermostat - look for something that says "system" or "Em heat, heat, off, cool" switch it to "cool" and enjoy. If that doesn't work, call a HVAC service tech. You could have bigger problems than just the system switch. Good luck

Apparently the gfci on the plug (the reset button) has gone bad. The best thing to do is to purchase a new cord and replace it. These switches sometimes go bad. Good Luck

Dave

If the wall switch will not work at all, but the fan still works this tells me the power is not being sent to the switch and back to the fan. If it is a single switch and the power starts at the fan there should be a black and white wire on the switch. (pull switch out of the wall to check...turn power off first!!) If so they did a switch loop and the power wire should be connected to the white wire up in the fan box and the power (black) wire connected to your fan lights and fan motor. You will also see your power feed cable consisting of a black and white wire. Black is your power and white is your neutral. That white wire will be connected to the neutral wires of your fan lights and motor. (Note: your fan will have to disassembled and taken down to diagnose this). Good Luck!!

Unplug your power cord from the socket outlet.
remove the back cover where the power cord connection is housed. visually check the connection, expose wire harness might touches the cover somehow. or the cover was dent that causes the bare wire to touched the cover. correct the dent if any, or tighen loose wire.assemble back cover. Reset your circuit breaker to your Stove because the pop sound might trip off your breaker. That should solve the problem.