WASH CYCLE STARTS AND FILL TUB WITH WATER AS NORMAL. THEN IT DOES NOTHING. "OL" CODE APPEARS, BUT THE MACHINE IS NOT OVER LOADED.
If your Top Load Washer is Over Flowing Check the Following it is possible that the Water Inlet Valve is faulty.
First check to see if water is entering the machine when it is shut off if it is,replace water inlet valve. If no water enters the machine when it is shut off the water inlet valve is not the problem.
Pressure Switch
The pressure switch controls the level of water in your washing machine. This does this by a small chamber on the side of the tub, this chamber fills with water wich in turns creates pressure in the chamber. There is a hose connected to this chamber that runs up to the switch. When the right amount of pressure is applied to the switch it stops the water flow. If the hose becomes clogged up, gets punctured or cracks and leaks the hose will need to be cleaned or replaced. If the hose looks good and has no holes check the pressure switch by checking it for continuity when blowing on the end of the hose. This will close the switch and simulate pressure. If you have no continuity when the switch is closed replace the pressure switch, this video will walk you thru replacing and testing.
SOURCE: WASHER NOT AGITATING OR WASHING
This
is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing
the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid
switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand
side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece
called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken
off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid
switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing
near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can
be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case,
if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate,
but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to
attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to
replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order
to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the
console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the
front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release
tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has
removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them
from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this.
The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw
under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and
lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be
careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you
will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch
from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to
remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into
the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the
screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will
release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the
opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting
from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain
access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding
it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back
on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the
machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame.
There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the
washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the
front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the
case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before
inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first,
then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some
force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch
receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by
posting comments.
SOURCE: Washing machine won't spin or agitate
It doesn't spin
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
It spins only with the lid closed
For
safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid
closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
SOURCE: Spin Cycle on Wash Machine does not work
The problem is your lid switch. This is a common problem with this model washer, and a very simple & inexpensive problem to fix. Click on the following link for advice on how to replace:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch
You can find a replacment switch at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Cabinet Parts" heading on the next page. I believe thats the heading the part is listed under. Sears has excellent part locator drawings to assist you in identifying the part. Once you have the part number identified, you can do some comparative shopping at other online websites too. Use the part number that Sears provides, however. A new switch usually runs about $25 to $35. In addition, make sure you check the lid strike. This is a small plastic piece on the lid that is used to activate the lid switch through a small slot. If the lid strike is broken off, it will give the same symptoms of a defective lid switch. I hope this information helps you. Please post back if you have any questions.
SOURCE: kenmore stack washer and dryer
gabehart....sounds like belt is slipping. Replace it. The water pump is on a separate smaller motor so is not affected by the agitator/spin motor.
SOURCE: kenmore elite HE4T front load washing machine standing water
This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.
Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:
1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.
Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
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