Nikon D60 Digital Camera - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There are several possibilities: The card may actually be full. It's possible that you did not program the computer to erase the card after downloading the pictures from your last shoot. If that's the case, just format the card in the camera. You can check to see if there are images on the card by pressing the playback button on the rear of the camera. Camera must be "On" to do this. The card may be corrupted. Again, try formatting. If this doesn't fix the problem, replace the card with a known good one and see what happens. If the camera functions properly, then you know it's a card problem. If the above doesn't fix it, the card may not be making proper contact inside the camera. However, if that's the case you should be getting a "no card" error message. My D-90 simply won't operate without a card in place. Finally, if none of the above help, contact Nikon tech support at www.nikon.com. I've found them to be very helpful.

To conserve battery power. Actually, it's only turning the LCD screen off, which is a huge battery hog. If you're out in the field waiting hours for that ___ to come by, you don't want you battery dead from running the LCD screen all the time, but you might miss the shot if you have to take the time to turn the camera on. So the camera "naps" until your subject is in view.

Yes it is compatible with Nikon D60.

You pushed the wrong button! On the left side of the LCD display, there are four buttons. One is labeled "ISO" and the other "QUAL". In the viewing mode, these buttons are used to allow you to scan multiple frames at one time. Each time you press the ISO button, it increases the number of images displayed. Each time you press the QUAL button it reduces the number of images displayed.

upgrade firmware...... or maybe one or more pins are not in contact with the SD chip...... try also cleaning the gold parts of the SD with a pencil eraser

One theory on this is that the camera's software or settings may somehow be corrupted, so you should go through the process of resetting the camera to its original factory settings. If that does not clear up the problem, try another AF lens and conform whether the problem is the lens or the camera body. If the camera is not focusing another lens, then you may need to clean the contacts or look for some sort of damage. If it turns out that it is the lens, the best solution is to send it to Tamron for service and see what they can do about it. If you cannot send it to Tamron, you ought to see whether it is something as simple as some sort of internal dust or dirt collection blocking the mechanical switches and functions of the lens. Start with making sure that you have a fully charged battery for the camera or AC power adapter for the camera. You do not want any of the problems with the camera to be related to having too little voltage available. Make sure that the camera's power switch is switched off. You do not need to have the battery or adapter connected just yet. Next, with the lens off of the camera, switch back and forth several times, firmly, between AF and MF and switch the vibration compensation off and on a few times. Of course, do not drop the lens. Also, unless you need the zoom ring locked, you may want to make sure that the zoom ring lock is fully off. While you are doing this, or after switching back and forth, check the electrical contacts on the lens and the camera body. If anything looks even a little less than shiny, clean the contacts. With the camera's power still switched off, put the lens back on the camera. Either put the battery in the camera or connect the AC adapter. Set the lens to AF with vibration compensation off. Switch the camera's power on. Try getting the camera to automatically focus on something. If it works, turn the camera's power off, then switch vibration compensation on, then turn the camera's power on and try again. It may be fixed, at this point, which means that you can ignore the rest. Otherwise: Turn the camera's power off again and switch to manual focus. Turn the camera's power back on and rotate the lens's focus ring (gently) all of the way through the focal range two or three times. Try taking one or two pictures, just to be sure that everything is working in manual. Turn the camera's power off and switch the vibration compensation, then turn the camera's power back on. Gently rotate the focus ring all of the way through the focal range two or three time, and then take two or three pictures to verify that everything is still working in manual. After that, turn the camera's power off and switch back to AF with vibration compensation off. Turn the camera's power back on. Try to get the camera to automatically focus on something. If it works, then turn the camera's power off and switch vibration compensation back on again. The turn the camera's power on and try to get it to automatically focus on something. If all of this works, than you should be okay with it as it is. You may still want to send the lens in to Tamron to get it serviced, in case the problem was some sort of lint or dirt getting caught up in the gears or servo that moves the lens through the focal range. If it does not work, you could try to force the lens to re-engage the autofocus servo. It will probably void your warranty, if you still have one, so you are better off send it in to Tamron for service, first, before trying it. Also, as the manual and common sense would indicate, if you try to force the lens to adjust its focus ring while it is switched to AF, you could easily break the mechanism in the lens. With that being said, some people claim that they got their lenses to return to proper autofocus by leaving the lens switched to AF and trying to rotate the focus ring manually. One person says not to "force" it, his just took a "firm push". I have not tried this, so I do not have advice on how much force may work or how much will damage the plastic bearings, gears and teeth inside the lens.

Try NOT connecting your camera to your computer. The best way to download pictures from your camera to your computer involves removing the memory card from the camera and plugging it into a card reader (either built-in to the computer or connected via USB or FireWire). This is likely to be faster than connecting the camera to the computer, and won't run down your camera's batteries. Once the card is plugged in, it will appear to your computer as a removable drive. You can use the operating system's drag&drop facility to copy pictures from the card to the computer's hard drive, the same way you copy any other files. Or you can use any photo management program such as Picasa ( http://picasa.google.com ).

Perhaps you did hide the pictures. When you hide the pictures, (the ones you don't want to show to costumers) you only get to see them on the computer. To unhide, goto the playback menu look for the line hide pictures and press. Rest must be simple.

It's not the aperture, it's the shutter speed. It's also not the mirror, but the shutter.The camera's fastest shutter sync speed is 1/200. You must use a shutter speed no faster than that. Due to the construction of the shutter, the frame is not fully exposed simultaneously at faster speeds and thus part of the image is blacked out.Using a flash, the amount of light is controlled almost exclusively by the flash; the exposure is controlled by the aperture and the shutter speed is all but irrelevant.

There can be many reasons why you don't see a thing. Be sure you put the camera in record mode (not display mode) make sure the display setting is bright enough to see what is on the screen. Make sure your camera is not connected to a PC, with a USB cable. And don't try to use the camera while charging, because the display won't show anything at all. I hope something over here you recognise? If not, try the manual, Page 155 trouble shooting.

Sometimes take your eye off the eyepiece and take a photo, does it show an error message that you have no battery left or something? If it does, fix it! :) Try switching to Auto mode, pressing the shutter all the way down and in a rather bright place. Remember to use Auto-Focus mode on your lens!

If you were hoping for a reason to replace/upgrade the camera I think this would qualify. If you want to see if you can save it, find a camera repair shop in your area and at least have it looked at. It may cost you a diagnostic fee but that will give you a better idea of whether it's worth spending the money on.

I thought I saw this one before? When you have taken a picture, the Nikon want to show you where in the picture it captured to much light. These parts are "overblown". You only see parts without detail. So not lighter or darker parts when you shoot in JPG. Only when you are shooting RAW (NEF for Nikon) you could get some detail in these places, when using Photoshop RAW, DxO or any other editing program that can handle RAW files.

This is a normal phoneme. The camera wants to show you where the picture is overblown. In these parts you can't see any details, because in JPG it will show it one colour. Most of the time this will be complete white. When you are shooting in RAW (NEF in your Nikon) most of the time you still get detail, when you work in one of the RAW editors, like Photoshop, DxO and other picture edtors.

Look into the slot, And see if you see a piece of plastic in there from one of your cards, Or look at all your cards to see if one of them is damaged, TC

Maybe those shots you took were in the raw mode, If so then you have to convert them with the Nikon software that camera with the camera,to view them in your laptop, Try installing that software then view them again, Hope this helps,

Job NR is usually associated with the camera's processing time during very slow shutters. If you wait long enough it will show you the image you've taken but because the shutter is very slow, the image will be blurry and unrecognizable. On manual mode or Shutter speed priority change your shutter speed to at least .125 of a second. That should fix the problem.

Hey there,The circular thumb pad on the back will set the display to single or multiple, or with histogram. Just press the upper edge or lower edge of the circular button to find the one you want.

If it is a power problem, then try a different battery. If it tells you to take out the battery and try again it is usually cause dby a failure of the mirror box motor.

Make sure that your battery is fully charged. Check the card in a card reader on a computer and see whether it has black photos. If that is the case, either the shutter is not opening or the imaging sensor has gone bad.