20 Most Recent Amana NAV5800A Top Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The system needs to know the lid is closed and locked before it will move onto the next stage of the programme - it needs feedback from the lid switch.

Defective cycle timer

Remove the rear panel to find and disconnect the hose.

If power is going into the machine, through the power switch and into the controller and everything as far as possible is either new or in good condition, power should be going out of the other end of the controller into the water solenoid valve, pump and most importantly the motor. Clearly that isn't happening or your new motor would be happily doing what it is supposed to be doing. I think you should ensure the power switch is good and power is being delivered and if it is, suspect the controller is defective...

The top-loading NTW4610YQ0 washer lid lock has two main parts. The catch is in the lid on the right hand side. (It's part 8 here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/4iuyzkgib8-001268/amana-ntw4610yq0-washer-parts .) The lock assembly is inside the top of the cabinet in the same area (part 14). (There is a bezel around the lock opening, part 11.) Some of these top-loading washers have a small magnet in the catch. If that has fallen out, you can get the door lock failure. You may also need to check the wiring between the lock assembly and the control board. Look for corrosion on the contacts and check the conductors for continuity. If replacing the lock assembly and catch doesn't solve the problem, then the control board may be faulty. (The control board might not be communicating the lock command to the lock assembly.) I hope this helps. Another source of the parts and diagram is https://www.partselect.com/Models/NTW4610YQ0/Sections/Top-And-Cabinet-Parts/?ModelID=6786639&ModelNum=NTW4610YQ0&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=FFBE4A55BE392F882CA1266B39A1F1C1FB32E669&Position=5&mfg=Maytag&Type=Washer&Mark=5 . Cindy Wells

Your pressure switch is having problems. Or could be the hose is pinched or some how was disconnected. Here is what the part looks like and you can buy it here. https://www.genuinereplacementparts.com/amana-ntw4800vq0-water-level-pressure-switch-genuine-oem?msclkid=3b99d76add8f196fb92d88442ec2a1ab

The F8 E1 code indicates a problem with the water coming into the washing machine for most Amana washing machines. This could indicate a problem with the inlet valve of the washer, the water hoses or your incoming water pressure. First make sure that the shut-off valves for the washer water lines are open. Close these valves and disconnect the water lines. Keep a bucket handy to catch the water in the hoses. Check the filters for debris and clean out any clogged filters. (Check both at the shut-off and the washer inlets.) Connect the hoses to the shut-off valves and check how much water flows into your bucket. (Some hoses are designed to limit flooding and restrict the flow when the hose is damaged. Replace the hoses if they are older or limiting your water flow.) Connect the hoses back to the washer. Next do you get water flowing into the washer when you start the machine? If possible, try both a hot cycle and cold and check for different flow rates. (We had the inlet valve on a washer fail to provide full flow for hot water. Replacing the valve cured the problem.) Replace the valve, if it's not opening properly. If you are getting good water flow, you might have a problem with the water pressure/flow sensor. There could be dirt blocking air flow in the tubing to this sensor. Clean out the tubing or replace the sensor. The problem could also be with the wiring or the control board not getting the messages to and from the inlet valve or pressure sensor. I hope this helps. The parts diagrams for the NTW4516FW2 are available from Sears Parts Direct: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/1l5hhsznio-001268/amana-ntw4516fw2-washer-parts . Cindy Wells (With the faulty inlet valve, we were able to improve the water flow temporarily. We took off the hot water line and filled it with household vinegar while turning on and off the washer. This dissolved the calcium carbonate deposits inside the valve.)

Try unpluging power cord to reset. Otherwise, Owner's manual, no manual? Try https://www.manualslib.com

Am technician I need you support me voxy not working engine

Washer will not drain: Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed. If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is free cuz God is good!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFLbBdZGjDg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Nx8_nbqCVw A grinding noise is commonly caused by a malfunction or failing of one of the following parts of the machine. ... They consist of four small pieces of plastic which, over time, wear out and begin slipping, which produces the grinding noise when the machine is in the agitate cycle. https://www.appliance-insurance.co.uk/appliance-insurance-articles/help-my-washing-machine-makes-grinding-noises/

Did the prong break on the lid?

The model number is probably NTW4605EW0. Most appliance models from this manufacturer end with a number. Sears Parts Direct has the Use and Care manual for the NTW4605EW0 here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/sblu1hn6dz-001268/amana-ntw4605ew0-top-load-washer . Amana has addtional documents for the washer on their support page: https://owners.amana.com/user-manuals/ . Use the drop-down menu and search box to locate the manuals and installation guide. The current link to the manual (in English) is http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%20W10740545.pdf . I hope this helps. I don't see a printed copy of the manual available from Sears Parts Direct. You can print it yourself or take the file to a print shop (Kinkos, UPS store) later. Cindy Wells

if the lid lock is broke it shouldn't be doing anything. If it is broke, it needs to ne fixed/replaced. If it is doing other things, more troubleshooting is necessary.

Add 1 cup vinegar then 1/2 cup baking soda to water It will fizz & clean &

For the Owner's Manual and information on your Amana, go here: http://owners.amana.com/user-manuals/ Good luck.

control switch failure

Is it heating the water? Many machines won't continue the wash cycle if the water temperature isn't achieved. Usually caused by blown heater element. I'm not familiar with your machine but generally it's a matter of removing the back panel, disconnect the terminals to the heater element, undo fixing bolt and pull it out. Should have a resistance of around 50 ohms, but if you're water isn't getting warm it's probably open circuit, ie infinitely high resistance. Replacement element is usually around £20.

Clogged screen on water valve. Turn off both water faucets.Remove hose from valve. Pop out mesh or plastic screen. May be debris. Could be low pressure too if this doesn't help.