20 Most Recent GE DBXR463EBWW Electric Dryer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Your fuse Location: In this photo they refer to the fuse as the non-resetable limit.
Want to know how to get in there?
Go here:
How it works: GE dryer If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Check the entire vent (exhaust ) system start the dryer and go outside to the exhaust vent ,you should feel a good amount of warm airflow.bet you will fine low airflow. You need good air circulation to help remove the moisture from the clothing warm or hot temps alone would take longer if ever to dry ..this generally happens slowly over time and the next thing you realize is that its running much longer than it use to... plus it cost more....if you still have a concern you may have a thermostat that is short cycling not letting it get hot enough long enough... Hope this helps GOOD LUCK

a huming motor is all ways bad news,,,,the motor has burnt out or is jamed so it cant turn,,,and that will burn it out as well!
most motors have two windings in there field coiles the start up winding and the run winding,,,if the start up winding has a fult in it it cant "kick start" the motor and if it cant "kick" it over the second run winding wont take over,,,so the motor stalls,,and it just humes??? but it gets very hot doing this!! causing a burn out!,,,,thats about the long and the short of it
boring huh? fitting a new motor should fix it,,,if its worth the price of a motor, plus fitting,,,

The lint screen is part number WE18M25. Just click on the links provided to see where you can find it and how much it costs.

you dont you need to take off the front panel and top

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " This should give me an ida of what to look for once I open er up "

If you change the plug on your dryer to a three prong and plug it in that way it will work, however it will not be up to the latest electrical codes where the dryer needs to have its own ground, not share that ground with a neutral. I would recommend running a new wire 10/3 with ground with a new four prong outlet (note: if you already have the 10/3 wire there you can just as easily change the outlet; red and black are hot wires, white is your neutral, and the bare copper is your separated ground) . However if you would like to just change the plug to a three prong you have to make sure your ground bar is tied to your neutral bar and there you only have three wires, 2 hot and one neutral.

The belt is most likely either the wrong size (too long) or the belt has stretched. A new belt of the correct size should solve this problem. Make sure you have the model number when you buy the belt. I recommend that you take the old belt with you and verify that the replacement is a little shorter.

That is probably the rear bearing insert part number we3x75 ($5)
It mounts on the center mount and when it gets thin it starts making a squeak squeak squeallllllll sound. Irritating ain't it? To replace the part you need to get into the dryer and inspect a few things. Also a wire can fall into the blower area and rub. The front of the drum rides on glides and when they get thing they begin metal to metal like bad brakes on some GE models and others not so much. I have repair photos that show how to get into the dryer to repair the problem. You need to fix it because failure to do so can result in the tub falling into the element and that aint good. I have some repair photos HERE
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

u have blocked air flow. check your vent.

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

When a dryer runs for around 30 minutes and shuts off it has reached the maximum operational temperature allowed and is most likely being shut off by the high limit thermostat. This is a safety feature built in to keep from causing a fire due to over heating.

This overheating condition is usually caused by lint buildup in the following areas.

1. The outside dryer vent exit is blocked with lint
2. Flexible vent ducting has lint build-up inside
3. The lint filter in the dryer is restricting airflow
4. The lint filter trap area has a build up of lint restricting airflow across the lint filter.
5. The blower fan / blades / ducting have a lint build up causing low air flow.

Do a tedious insepction for lint buildup and all of the ducting areas that you have access to without disassembly.

Make sure to clean as much of the lint out of the areas that you can see. In the process of cleaning DO NOT use sharp objects to try and free the lint.
If you have to... sacrifice a coat hanger and bend it in half so that it is U shaped to assist you in clearing the lint in stubborn areas.

If you really want to quickly rule out the outside ducting... you can disconnet the Vent hose / duct from the rear of the dryer and then dry a load of clothes. If it does not shut off you know that your external ducting is where the problem lies. Just make sure to reconnect the vent / hose ducting after the test. (Over time can make a large lint mess)

One other thing to check is the dryer door catch to make sure it is not getting weak when the dryer is hot allowing the door open switch to kick off the dryer.


Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

check where the pigtail connects to the drier.

Dave

When you open the door there is a "kill" switch that shuts off the dryer. It could be stuck physically or electrically. If the motor comes on at all then the motor is not the problem. If you have replaced the control knobs then this "kill" switch would be very high on my list of suspects.

The main difference between a 3-wire and 4-wire configuration is how the Neutral and Ground wires are terminated at the temrinal block. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

In a 3-wire configuration Neutral (WHITE) and Ground (GREEN or BARE COPPER) are terminated TOGETHER at the terminal block via a ground strap.

In a 4-wire configuration these two wires are independent of each other are NOT terminated together.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Check Replace Thermostat. The Dryer Thinks Its Not Lighting Because The Thermostat Isn't Working.

The Dryer Has A Safety Mechanism So It Wont Flood Your Home With Gas. When The Thermostat Is Broken The Unit Doesn't Detect The Heat And Shuts Off The Gas.

If You Like You CV

more likely than not the gas coils that operate the gas valve have gone bad.. if it fires at all the safetys, etc are good..
if i had model number i could be more specific as to how to get to them and part #'s..
hope this helps,
best of luck,
ttfn

UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
I am not sure what plastic part you have, but there should be no small plastic parts in your dryer drum or at least not the ones I have worked on before.
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication.
If you have a front loading machine,
Remove the electrical box that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers.
Check your rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If they don't then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps

The part number on a drive belt for the model you have listed is WE12M29. It can be purchased on line at pcappliancerepair.com for about $11. I hope this helps you.

UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers is in need of lubrication.
If you have a front loading machine,
Remove the electrical box that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum,belt, and front seal. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers.
Check your rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If they don't then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
If your front seal is bad, it will cause clothes to be caught, replace it if it is needed, or reinstall if it has come out of place.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps