20 Most Recent GE DBXR463EBWW Electric Dryer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Runs but dont heat:
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Runs but takes a long time to dry the clothes:
Sometimes blower wheels will get loose in dryers. Sometimes they will get a whole lump of lint in them or you can hear a rattling noise in the dryer, this is the blower wheel, its worn out and it can cause the fuse to blow too,or it can half *** work and take fifty forever's to dry the clothes.Or it could be just that the dryer needs a good blowing out .I use a lawn blower to get all the lint out of the dryer as well as the vent pipe and vent to outside. I take the filter HOUSING out and wash it also. That is, I remove the housing and clean is good! Making sure that the dryer is properly flowing air is a good thing!

HI. The start switch is the culprit in this situation. you must replace the switch asap. The replacement of the switch will correct this issue. The switch circuit is weak, and not able to maintain a closed circuit.

If your dryer came with a regular grounded cord attached, it is a gas dryer, and you will have to hook up a gas line to the 3/8 pipe nipple at the lower left corner (when viewed from behind). The 4 prong power cord is only used for electric only models. If still unsure, post the model number from the sticker inside the door of the dryer.

Please check your exhaust line fron the lint filter to the outside vent. When I say check, what I mean is take the machine away from the wall remove the hose and vaccum out the drier outlet --- use the crevice tool. When you are done with this, put a nylon over the end of the outlet and turn the drier on. You should have a good amount of air coming out. There will probably be lint - the reason for the nylon is to catch it. If not - do it again. (use the air setting) ... do the same with the hose. If you have access to the other end, disconnect it as well .. check that the door on your outside vent is not stuck shut. If you have a plastic hose, please replace it with a flexible metal hose.

I hope this helps you

a

If this is brand new i assume you will have warranty..First of all try the plug fuse, next make sure the voltage setting is correct for your area, I note what you say on this!..to check a timer properly you would need a diagram and multimeter,I wish you well good luck

There are three things besides what you aleady checked:
1. Open the small access door in front of the dryer and start the heat cycle. The ignitor must glow a bright orange so that it is hot enough to light the gas. If there is no orange glow, then the ignior needs replacement.

2. If it glows then cuts off, then glows, again and cuts off, the thermocouple sensor wire is out of position. It needs to be very, very close to the ignitor. This thermocouple sends a temperature signal when it senses that the ignitor is hot enough to ignite the gas. Unplug the dryer. Re-position the thermocouple wire mount so that the thermocouple wire is almost touching the ignitor. You may also "bend" the wire. Plug power back on and heat.

3. If it still does not heat, then the automatic gas valve that is controlled by the thermocouple sending unit is broken. The automatic gas valve cannot be safely "fixed" and must be replaced.
Hope it's just the thermocouple wire.

All brands and models are similar but different - a models # would help me help you.
Thanks!

it may also be a bearing, you have to remove the outer cover to access the workings

Check for a blown thermal fuse or a faulty heating element. Both components can be tested for continuity using a multimeter or ohm meter. If there is no continuity, the component is faulty. The thermal fuse is located just inside the rear of the dryer and is usually mounted on the exhaust duct. It is about one inch long. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Here are some PICTURES If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If there is no lint blocking the air outlet path, I would next check two things: First, is the dryer in a small, closed room? If there is not enough space for air to get in to the dryer, it won't have good airflow through the clothes. Second, for older dryers, the blower fan may be loose on its shaft or, if the blower has its own separate motor, the blower motor might be dead. In order to find the blower fan, you'll have to be able to open up the dryer. Once you find the fan, see if it turns easily without moving the motor shaft -- if so, you need to replace the fan. Also, be sure there isn't anything blocking the blades of the fan.

You open the door and remove the screws at the top as pictured HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Normal 0 Unplug the dryer. The grinding noise is usually from the front support being worn out. The front of the drum is supported by the seal around the door opening. When the seal wears out the front of the drum tips down allowing the drum to rub on the bottom back. Check this out by reaching into the drum and feeling for the felt seal just inside the opening. Feel the top and the bottom. If there is a larger gap at the bottom the seal needs to be replaced. Some dryers use plastic slides to support the front of the drum. You can determine this after the lid is up. Do you see a mark around the drum where it runs on the slides. If so it has them if not it doesn’t. If a slide wears out the dryer will make a scrapping noise until the drum is cut in two. To raise the top. Slide a thin flat blade under the front of the lid and feel for the two clips several inches in from the corners. Push straight in on a clip while pulling up on the lid at the front edge and it will release the lid at that point. Do the other clip. Lift the lid. There are usually two screws, one on each side holding the front tight. With the screws removed, pry out by each of the push clips on the side. The front should come off. If yours has exposed chrome screws all the easier. Unhook the wires to the door switch. Set the front aside. While the lid is open grab the top rear of the drum and pull up and down on it. If there is movement the rear bearing is bad. If needed change that. Put the front back on, reconnect the door switch, and snap the lid down. The seal on the front and the bearing on the back must be good for the drum to be properly aligned in the housing and ruin quietly. When putting the front panel back on you need to guide the drum and the front panel together at the felt seal. While you are doing all this change the belt and be sure to vacuum the inside of the cabinet very well. To change the bebelt you only need to release it from the moror pulley by springing the belt idler up a little. Take a flashlight and look through the holes in the back of the drum. Do you see a buildup of lint? If you do pull the drum out of the cabinet, remove the air deflector on the back of the drum and vacuum it all real good. The rear bearing is usually released by pulling straight up on the drum at the rear. There is a small steel ball in the rear bearing. Don’t lose this it bleeds static from the drum. It fits in a hole in the plastic housing. Some new lithium grease will keep in place. If not it can be put in from the back after the drum is in place. Don’t get in over your head! A service man is cheap compared to a house fire!

Since you have power to your dryer check these two items:
Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

I need the brand n serial# please to better assist you

Yes. The heating element is controlled by an internal bias thermostat that regulates the temperature that you have the dryer set for. The heating element is not supposed to stay on continuously or the unit would overheat. The thermostat regualtes the internal temperature to prevent damage to the applaince and/or your clothes.

on which setting are you running it. If you are running this on the timed setting then its obviously a faulty timer. Sounds to me though that you are running it on its automatic cycle. If this is the case it could be a couple of things. Somewhere on ur beast there is a moisture sensor, this is what advances the timer and tells it to stop. This may be faulty or it could be that ur vents are indeed clogged which would trap the moisture in and result in the long dry times. The simplest way to go about this one would be to clear the air flow and see if the problem persists.( this means pulling out the dryer clearing all the vents, if using the flexible ones make sure they are not binding up while setting dyer in place. Also if there is a vent that runs through the wall as well you can clear this by removing exterior vent). good luck

yes the felt is cushion and it sounds like it might be the blower fan sometimes they get off balance or just simply out off wack and the blades will rub on the housing

it's over-heating sounds like you have a bad thermal switch