Kohler 1014-H2-96 Portrait 5' Whirlpool Bath Tub Finish: Biscuit - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

did your old diverter have a shut off knob on it? if so you may have not noticed it leaking, -what causes that is the existing shower faucet may have been mounted to high from the spout below -or the pipe going down from existing fixture to the tub faucet spout pipe may not be at least 3/4", -if its 1/2" it will always do that

either flapper needs replacing or water level float set to high

you can try to remove it or you can go to a plumber supply shop and get a new level controller faster easier and gives another 10 years of service you may have to remove the unit from the cistern to get enough force applied to turn the cap so the job is half done anyway

Never heard of such a thing. You'd better contact Kohler on this one, bro. . .

CLR .works well

first check the air switch hose that connects to the "button"
Open the access for the pump there should be 1/4" poly tubing (probably clear) that connects to the pump motor. It just slides over a barbed nipple usually located somewhere on the back of the pump housing opposite the pipe connections. Make sure it is in place properly. If it is in place then look else where. The tubing also connects to the back of the air switch "button". This button connection rarely fails, especially if the tub was working and now does not. But if the tub is newly installed and may have disconnected during installation. this connection is probably going to be difficult if not impossible to verify since it is usually concealed after installation.
Some pump motors have resets some do not. If it does it probably is on the very back of pump opposite the pipe connections.
Also check to make sure that any electrical outlets in the bathroom, or any where in a nearby radius of the tub, to see if they have "GFI" reset buttons and make sure that they havn't tripped by pushing in the button between the plug-ins named "reset". Usually the circuit for the pump will be tied into one of these switches to add ground fault protection to the circuit.
If your pump is not working after checking these things it may be dead. Does your pump "hum" after pushing the button? Do you smell any type oder around the pump that would suggest a "burnt motor"?
If the pump is dead you will have to replace it.
Come back here and post more if your problem isn't solved. Or ask how to find and replace a new Whirlpool pump.
Hope you figure it out. T. Wood CFE Plumbing

you are in the toilets and bidets catagory so go to a plumber supplier shop and ask then what unit will replace the item

replace the seal in the unit or replace the valve

need to keep adjusting

How is it broken provide details as there are many issues you could have need to know how to answer your specific problem

they use seperate pumps and one of them is bad or needs new capacitor.

Hello there,if you check on line you'll see there is either a funny looking piece of metal that hooks to the tube and refill pipe.They also sell a circular piece to fit over fill tube with a hole in the centre to push your tube into it.First off check and see if these didn't fall off into tank.If not Canadian tire, homedepot can help with this just have makers name of toilet or model

Your air vent to the roof for the toilet is simi clogged. clear it. Mike

To open the assembly, first line up the flush buttons with the float mechanism. This aligns tabs on the button mechanism with a slot on the mating surface allowing you to 'pop' the button assembly off with the help of a screwdriver. It will also prevent breaking off the tabs. If you break off the tabs, the button assembly will not lock in place when you reassemble it (speaking from experience).
2. Carefully pop off the button assembly with the help of a screwdriver.
3. Disengage the lever from the valve assembly by carefully prying with a screwdriver (see video).
4. Pop off the lever from the axle on button assembly and remove.
5. With some fine grit sand paper or emery cloth, polish the casting marks off of the axle.
6. Reassemble the mechanism. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-fix-leaking-Water-Ridge-dual-flush-toilet-f/

Typically it's one of two things. Either there is debris (Sand, gravel or hard water deposits) under the seal diaphragm inside the fill valve or the diaphragm has deteriorated. Shut off the water to the tank, take the cap off of the fill valve and remove the diaphragm. If the diaphragm has deteriorated, replace it Kohler #83143. Otherwise, rinse it off, turn the water on just a bit to let it bubble over the top of the fill valve and rinse out any debris. Then with the water trickling, put the diaphragm back in and replace the top assembly. When all is secure, turn the water back on to full.

Usually this is caused by a sticky valve. The "low-tech" repair method is to just thump the top of the valve fairly hard with your fist. The correct method would involve disassembly and cleaning of the valve interior, or even possibly replacement.

I would suggest a new plunger that will seal.

A grommet seal has disolved. You need to turn off the water main and replace or rebuild the affected shut-off valve or faucet. Use a Monkey wrench. .

not really as the flush time is set by the manufacturer in the design what can be adjusted is the water level in the cistern the more water , the longer the flush before the reset ( shut off)action is activated adjust that by the float screw ot water level adjust screw on the inlet stem

are there any floor drains in the room and an unused bathtub or shower? if so the water may have evaporated from the trap and allow the sewer gas smell. try pouring water into all the drains and see if it is still happening. more elaborate problem may be a broken vent stack in a wall.