Engine wont start w/o starting fluid. good fuel pump pressure, new ignition control module, new fuel injector still wont run, have pulse w/ noid light

your testing is no good. (no engine told at all)
the ECM ,only injects using this logic.,

1: fuses good
2: ECM good (i bet yes)
3: CKP and CMP senors dead.
4: if the ECM sees spark dead it cuts all fuel to prevent as seen on TV "CRASH AND BURN" and by LAWs on this fact.
5: some cars have Injector buffer modules between ECM and injector rails.(LOOK OR READ THE FSM)
6: fuel pump dead.
7: fuel filters clogged or it and injectors too (they have 10micron screens)
8: have a NOID light? to see if injectors are not fired by ECM?
the injector plugs all have 12vdc on one pin, do they if not fuse blowN, #1 AGAIN.. USING A DMM, METER.

mostly this list works too BELOW.. (noid lamp fails)
fuses
ckp and or CMP sensor dead. The crank and cam must spin !!!!
if CMP is dead and cam does not spin, well that be cam drive dead.

spark dead, if spark is dead ECM detects it dead and fueling is banned,(blocked)by laws. (fire avoided , win)
way3:
if NOID passes on all injectors (as will spark tests)
fuel pressure gone. we measure it. (bad pump, clogs or bad fuel)

if spark is good test fuel test works.
ever do test fuel on any engine using can-o-fuel or instant start fuel in a spray can, seen engine run for 3 seconds and sounds good.?
RTM FIRST? there are sure more causes, list is common, only. and hard logic truths.

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You have wasted a lot of money buying stuff that is not needed.
Check the pulses from the crank shaft sensor.

does it have spark ?
No Start No injector pulse shorted injector part 1

No Start Testing Basics Spark Injector Pulse and Fuel Pressure Hyundai...

GM Bypass Ignition System Operation part 1

If you watch any of these ,watch the last one .Ignition control module can cause no injector pulse but still have spark

So, it's the injector circuit. There is a 10 amp injector fuse in the fuse block, on left side, 4th one down. Check this fuse. It supplies constant power to both injectors, on the red wire to injector 1, and a white wire splice from this to injector 2. A steady 12 volts anytime key is in on, run, or start. You can check this with a test light or voltmeter. Ground the test light and probe injector connector's red wire on injector 1, and the white wire on injector 2-both should be hot with key on.
This may be why the noid light didn't blink. The noid light must have this steady power signal, and when the computer internally grounds the injector ground circuit for a split second, you get injector pulse-or a blinking noid light.
You can check the ground circuit separately with a test light also for each injector. Place the ground clip of test light on the POSITIVE battery post, and probe the blue (ground) wire on injector 1, the engine must be cranking over, and the test light should be blinking. Do the same for the green wire on injector 2. If the test light is blinking on both ground wires, with engine cranking-the ground circuit is good. You are sending power down the ground wire to computer, and when the computer grounds the circuit, the tester will light up-it will blink because the computer only momentarily grounds the circuit to cause pulsing of the injectors.

If by cranking you mean the engine starts then you are having fuel issues. If the car starts with starting fluid then you either don't have fuel pressure or the injectors are not opening. After starting with starting fluid does it continue to run until you shut it off or does it shut off on its own?

Either way you will need to install a fuel pressure gauge to make sure you have enough fuel pressure. If you do have fuel pressure then you will need to make sure the injectors are firing. There is a tool available called a noid light or injector pulse light. You will need to unplug one of the injectors and plug this tester into the connector. If the light flashes while cranking then the injector is being companded to fire. If the light does not flash then you either have a bad engine computer or a control module. More than likely it is the control module. The control module uses the input from the crankshaft position sensor to fire the coil and the injectors the module may be loosing the signal for the injector.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

These cars where prone to problems in the stock antitheft system. This causes injector shutdown. Might be something to look into. Here's a link on that. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Spray starting fluid or carb cleaner into the air intake to see if it really is a fuel problem. If it tries to start, like firing for a few seconds, it is probably not getting gas to the cylinders. Then you need to check the injector circuit. If fuel is getting up to the engine, then the pump is working, but maybe not good enough-check that by testing the fuel pressure. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail, turn key to on, and you should see high pressure on the gauge, about 50 psi, but check for manufacturer specs for the correct pressure.

The injector circuit uses a fuse for the injectors, then it applies constant voltage to the injectors when the key is in on or run or start. See if you have voltage to the injectors with the key on. The injectors will pulse when the pcm momentarily grounds the injector circuit-it grounds each individual injector internally inside the computer for a split second. This causes the injector solenoid to energize and raises a pintle inside the injector so that fuel under pressure will spray out into the cylinder.

• Cranks but no start condition-do below to determine whether it's fuel or spark issue:
• Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

make sure it is getting enough gas pressure

If the engine will not fire on starting fluid the problem lies elsewhere in ignition. Spark plugs etc. computer has a nofault safety start relay. meaning no spark , no fuel

You need to check and make sure you have fuel pressure, then check for spark at ignition, if those check out then check for pulse width at the injectors. That basically is the electrical signal which tells injectors to spray fuel. Use what is called a Noid light on injector pulse width check. that will eliminate all possibilities other than internal issues with engine. I.E. broken cam, broken timing components, obviously if all I mentioned checks out then run compression test. Good Luck