20 Most Recent 1988 Chevrolet K1500 Questions & Answers

bad actuator or vac leak

security light flashing?

take off wheel remove upper balljoint nut seperate ball joint from spindle remove big nut from center of wheel remove six bolts to inner axle and carefully knock axle out of hub repeat in reverse for install

u may have burned a wire check for melted starter wire or other wires

No. Even if it did, the modulator only controls the 1-2 shift.

go to junk yard buy new used brain and new used tbi unit put them on check fuses then start

you will need to take the door panel off their are 2 metal lines for the door locks and door handles that clip on and off and their are 3 screws on the door also a few on the inside were the handle is

Did you check for vacuum leaks?

I'm just thinking out loud. Turn the crank by hand while you watch the rotor, they should move together, if not, you got a problem. Can you check cylinder compression, if compression is really bad, you may never get it to run right? In the past on older vehicles, some of the them, the check engine lite wouldn't work, but, I could hook up a scanner that shows live engine data, hook- up to the aldl, it would show engine data, of course it wouldn't show codes.

for the best solution of your problem visit this site Best Manuals

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/SBC_cylinder_head_identification

The 700R4 requires no computer. That's what the TV Cable is- Activates the OverDrive without needing a computer. I don't think a 700R4 has a lockup. At least, None of the trucks I have driven have had one.

1988 swb chevy 1500 steering column wiring diagram Google Search This should help!

fuel filter,fuel pump.battery connection.

Replace light cause it is burn out it happens frequently

a full decking of heads, as well as refurbishing at a head shop is most likely necessary, new head bolts, head gaskets, as well as checking the valve/piston clearance.make sure the coolant holes are properly cleaned out, and this could be a good time to port and polish the heads

the points have slipped or the electronic ignittion has failed or a fuse it blown or the distributor isnt right in some way,,,, {the capacitor has gone short} you could find the ignition coils is full of moisture because its housing has cracked check the coil pack and its supply

So, it's the injector circuit. There is a 10 amp injector fuse in the fuse block, on left side, 4th one down. Check this fuse. It supplies constant power to both injectors, on the red wire to injector 1, and a white wire splice from this to injector 2. A steady 12 volts anytime key is in on, run, or start. You can check this with a test light or voltmeter. Ground the test light and probe injector connector's red wire on injector 1, and the white wire on injector 2-both should be hot with key on. This may be why the noid light didn't blink. The noid light must have this steady power signal, and when the computer internally grounds the injector ground circuit for a split second, you get injector pulse-or a blinking noid light. You can check the ground circuit separately with a test light also for each injector. Place the ground clip of test light on the POSITIVE battery post, and probe the blue (ground) wire on injector 1, the engine must be cranking over, and the test light should be blinking. Do the same for the green wire on injector 2. If the test light is blinking on both ground wires, with engine cranking-the ground circuit is good. You are sending power down the ground wire to computer, and when the computer grounds the circuit, the tester will light up-it will blink because the computer only momentarily grounds the circuit to cause pulsing of the injectors.

Lets start at the beginning. Is the check engine light on ? You have an idle air control valve which could be sticking open or shorted to ground. You should be able to unplug it to test. There also could be a gasket or hose that is opening up and causing a huge vac leak.