20 Most Recent 2002 Ford F350 Super Duty DRW Reg. Cab - Page 7 Questions & Answers

could be 3 things

Firstly you can test the glow plugs if you take them out and connect them to a batery charger if they glow in 5-15 seconds they are fine if they dont then are on there way out sometimes they crack due to being very cold then very hot quickly.

Secondly you may have an air lock in the fuel or fuel pump failure. if you have an air lock you will have to bleed the system through to make sure there is no air in the pipes. let me know if you need me to explain how to do it?

Thirdly air mass meter, although this is unlikely to stop it from starting.

If you dont want to spend any money then I would do both the forementioned things, 99% of the time this is the cause of these faults. and you can do it yourself. let me know if you need anything else?

the glow plugs either need replaced, or the cable that feeds them is corroded or broken, they need a high current clean supply to heat effectively and the engine will be a ***** to start if they arent heating correctly.

Using a meter or test lamp, check each heater plug head (the bit with the nut where the link cable connects to each one) to earth an see if 12v is getting to every single plug, if there is a break in the chain then all the plugs after the break will be off and not heat.

Make sure all connections to them are clean and tight, then if that doesnt work, measure each plugs individual resistance to ground with all wiring removed from all plugs and no power on (ignition off) - any that are open circuit or much higher resistance than the rest are bad, they should be 1 to 10 ohms each but should be roughly the same value on a good set to within 1 ohm of each other.

if your talking about turning the driveshaft both ways and feeling that slack,no that is just wear and tear on the pinion gear and ring gear.

that fuse powers pcm fuel heater and some other things. when the fuse blows the pcm shuts down. causing it to not run. usually its the heater that is bad. it is located at the back driver side by the fuel pump. you can unplug it and see if it starts. if so you will need to replace the heater

If they are breaking, check the flywheel for damaged teeth. If they are failing electrically, it is probably heat. Make sure there is not a missing shield between the starter and the exhaust manifold. If you are towing, consider wrapping the exhaust in that area with special heat insulation tape (kind of like ace bandage)

I would check the connection on the back side if the turbo some time that clamp fails and the down pipe losens up you can get some fumes that way or check the other end of the down pipe it could be leaking there. a good way to tell if it is leaking on the back side of the turbo is look for black around the clamp.

You need to check the grounds to the lights if you are getting power and have no blown fuses.

you either have a bad lamp on both left and right sides that will kill the flasher until replaced, but I would bet the flasher itself is bad

WELL IS YOU COOLANT LEVEL RIGHT AND IF SO WHEN TRUCK IS WARMING UP CHECK THE RAD HOSE'S AND SEE IF THE LOWER ONE IS GETING WARM ARE NOT OR IF THE TOP IS COLD BUT I WOULD START WITH THERMOSTAT IT'S SOUNDE LIKE IT IS COUSE FLOW ISUSSE HOPE THIS HELPS BUT IF BOTH HOSE ARE HOT AND YOU TOUCHE HEATER HOSE ONE HOT THE OTHER IS NOT THEN IT COULD BE HEATER CORE ISUSES

First check the bulbs. If they are bad replace them. Next check the ground.
You can purchase a little gadget that goes into the trailer plug that will tell you whether your ground is good or not. Finally get a can of electrical contact spray at autozone and give all of the contacts inside the bulb housings a squirt

test by puting a volt meter to the glow plug top and earh and check for voltage

KAM= Keep Alive Memory. has the battery been disconeected? all fuses good? for some reason the computer losing power everytime the truck is shut off. Now internal there may be more to it?

remove the forward access panel on the inside of the door opposite the mirror base, this can be done with a putty knife or flat blade screwdriver (carefully) there will be 3 nuts i beleve that hold the Mirror assembly to the Door, be sure and unplug the wiring harness if you have power mirrors.

Yes you can it takes an allen head socket or wrench to take loose. I have not yet seen this part in an aftermarket replacement, will probably have to obtain from the dealer.

Here is a diagram for the 5.4L and 6.8L with a/c.

5.4, 6.8 no ac



Diesel

welkl depending on how many miles you have you might want to consider replacing the wheel bearings and brake pads since you have the front hubs off the job is moderatley difficult but if you have the tools and a mechanical ability you will be fine, maybe you might want to run by your local library or auto parts store and check out the frepair manual just to get a look see or even buy it to have for a reference in case you get stuck as far as tools if you have a good socket set and allen wrenches and screwdrivers mostly basic mechanics tools youll be fine