20 Most Recent 2002 Ford F350 Super Duty DRW Reg. Cab - Page 6 Questions & Answers

hello the cars today have safety features that could be what it is if the battery volts and amps get to low the pcm will start to shut down the accesseries as you are driveing one way to tell is if the ac system and windows doesnt work the system is going into battery save mode it allows you to get to a dealer without stalling also seen people goto shop get alkinds of stuff replaced and still have same problem thats were i would start to look at the charging system and batterty. hope this helps thunderboltz

Most likely your HPOP.

If the transmission fluid is not low the filter may be clogged. If changing the filter does not help an internal valve may be sticking and leaking

I can't get access to the diagrams as most all the suites require you to pay, however what I would try to do is spray those latch /cable assemblies with a lot of WD 40, seems if they were left ajar for a log time the elements found their way into the mechanismns and probably rusted them up...a good soaking should free them up, a good prying should mess them up ...I would soak first and let stand for a good 24 hours using a heavy spray on the cables and the latching mechanismns, even use brake cleaner along with the wd 40 just be careful the brake cleaner don't take the paint off with it, put a few dry rags in the bottom to catch it on both sides.
Once it finally opens I doubt any adjustments will be needed if they dont...my thoughts are the lower mechanismns may be seized up and the rust buster saoking should do the trick!!
Keep me posted Mike.
Happy Motoring!!

I can give you some suggestions;
First it was used for trauma, use good gloves and protective gear, and bleach, vinegar and other disenfectants as needed.

If you are in a state or locality where vehicle fitness iinspections are done, check with em before continuing.

Then make sure all electrical hot leads are removed or disconnected,
Same with any plumbing and communications hardware,
Then, unbolt and remove all you can with wrenches, some may need to be cut out depending on your needs, if you cut fiberglass wear a respirator, eye and ear protection too. Sawzall's work great with minimal dust, less than say a high speed angle grinder.

Be aware that some inner structure may affect the outer structure of the vehicle, if you remove this replace it with adequate structure suitable for your use.

Local dumps like small pieces, check with your local dump,transfer station, or garbage collection agency before assuming they will or won't take it.

Some of the stuff you remove can be sold, or given away on such sites as craigslist.com and your local freecycle network.

Hope this helps

This could be a lot of things either electrical or fuel related. Have the code read at a local auto parts store and post it. Once you have that code you can start diagnosing the problem instead of just trying things a wasting money.

The core is about to break ... replace the speedo cable.

This vehicle has the capability to store codes in order to start diagnosing this. Your best bet is to get them, but the problem is only the manufacture has the tool to do so. I know this is not what you want to hear but you have possibly three expensive parts options.

Now if you would like to diagnose this yourself you can go to.............

mitchell diy online

and for ten bucks get all the diagnosing material a professional has.

How many miles on this truck?
You maybe having an issue with your injector pump or the controller.

Not a problem that very many people have the ability to solve at home

check out all of the bearing and bushing give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if it is the transfercase checkout a good salvage yard for one give this website a try to find one close to you www.junkyarddog.com wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

Similar problem. I disconnected the battery & reconnected. All the electronics reset themelves. Maybe this will help. Good luck. Joey

IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR SOME HAVE A MAGNETIC SWITCH / IF YOU DON'T SEE A MACHANICAL SWITCH

Your Bulb Behind The 4wd Light.

Yea I worked for Ford and have seen this before. Your pump is cavatating. It has air somewhere in the system. Ford pumps are known for being noisy. To get the air out correctly you have to jack the front tires off the ground and while the engine is on turn the steering back and fourth with the cap of the pump. You need to get a small bottle of Fords Friction Modifier and put it in this pump after you get the air out. If your truck has Hydraboost steering then the hydraboost could have a bad seal init allowing the pressure to go backwards through the system. The Hydraboost system is easy to distinguish because it has hoses that go up and attach to the brake booster system. Some trucks came with these and some did not. Hope this helped.

It almost sounds like something may be wrong with your Ignition switch. Other things to check would be wires going down to starter, wires at starter cellenoid on fire wall.

Check the relays in your engine side fues box. Look for the one that operates your IDM and the one that runs your IPR. Could just be a weak realy and it could also be a bad connection at your IPR. these are quick easy checks. You may have a fuel relay kicking out as well check for fuel related relays and also your fuel pump pressure. I have seen the pumps work but drop below the normal pressures needed to keep the truck running.

Thar is a small weir that plugs.. in the side of the tobing on some do you have one.or disconnect the battery for10 minutes

sounds like a bad wheel bearing, a number of things can cause vibrations / grinding, a little more information would be helpful.