Top 20 2002 Ford F350 Super Duty DRW Reg. Cab Questions & Answers

Neutral safety switch is tore up or the wires are melted and shorting. Look on the side of the tranny for the part shown below. Also check the pins on the switch connection.

As I understand these systems the ECM is not what powers the glow plug relay. Any kind of engine controls happen after the engine starts. There should be a power relay which feeds the juice to the glow plug relay. When you turn the keyswitch to start and the light for the glow plugs goes out you should hear a clicking as the glow plug timer cycles juice to the glow plugs. The glow plug side is a separate system from the fuel management side. Someone should check the glow plugs to see if each is good. The diesel system used to be simple and it sounds like you are complicating what should be a simple repair. I could be wrong, but it does not sound like the Dealer is selling you the parts you need. A diesel needs a heated combustion chamber to initially fire and then it runs by compression. Perhaps if you change the power relay from the vehicle you removed the ECM from and tried it in your truck it would work with your old ECM.

that is limp mode there is a problem with the engine and you need a code reader to find the problem cam and crank sensors are prom to go over time but there are other sensors and to find the right problem the codes need reading. also i would recommend you check the diesel round seal on the intake as these can fail. ford want you to by a new unit and so do others, but the seal can be replaced and only cost a few pence. take old one into a bearing and seal supplier and they will locate one in stock, has this problem myself as it cause engine problems with weak fuel pressure.

You mean it starts itself whenever it wants? Or used to? How's the Positive cable? What else was it doing before you changed battery?

Hopefully this video will help you out

coolant or oil? heres a diagram

Its in the engine compartment left hand side rear.

auto shutoff relay or fuel control to the injector pump from the ignition switch..be checking the batteries for connection(or burnt thru solenoid because ecessive cranking will burn these up with all the amperage required to spin a diesel...)

Every diesel has an electric solenoid that shuts the fuel off when you turn the key off. I suspect that is your problem but I don't know where it is exactly on a Ford. It should be mounted on or near the injector pump.

I had a customer with the same issue, f350 sometimes won't start. He had two issues The pig tail on the alternator on these will brake internally due to a pretty tight pull on the connector breaks the ground wire inside and will not have great connectivity for recharging the dual battery set up also not giving the correct voltage to start the truck. Two) believe it or not the a/c compressor will start to go out and will seize up a little bit at a time up until it stops turning completely. When it does seize up it will feel like the motor is locked up all you will get is a hard click, followed by the sound of the belt streaching kind like a (boing ) sound, if the truck gets to this point cut the belt and replace the a/c system .

You will have to pull the side panel on your car door to inspect the linkage and make sure it is hook together. If its electric lock then you will have to check the solenoid to make sure its working . Either way you will have to pull the door panel off.

I would suggest you try to use a code reader from an autozone or o'rielly auto parts because it could be a few things, anything from injectors to a cam position sensor. I had a similar issue and found 2 bad injectors.

your best bet would be youtube

What motor do you have? Go to this site, plug in your info and download manual. https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owner-manuals/

If the scanner or code reader will not communicate with the computer, you need to check the cig lighter fuse first.

Replace the bulb

check the cam position sensor. there was a recall on them from ford free replacement.

If you have a multimeter or 12v-24v light probe attach one lead to body of vehicle (vehicle seat bolt in floor is a good place), in the case of meter, black lead goes here, light probe has alligator clip, then other lead push point into leads on motor red one should be live with ignition on & fan on max, if no power then I'd say check fuses & the fan switch, try removing plug near fan motor & applying 12v directly to the two wires, it should not matter which way you wire this, it will still run if it's going to, but if one is red & the other black, then red is positive.Good luck, these motors very rarely give out, my guess is the switch...

hi! if you are speaking of a stick shift, there isnt one, per say. the truckcan be started in all gears, you have to depress the clutch first to engagethe starter.the neutral safety switch is around the clutch pedal attachingpoint, like the brake light switch. if you mean the automatic, i have notworked on one of them. its usually on the trans by the shift selecter!!you could google this for alocation good luck

It's sounds like its getting air some where...could be the fuel injector...can you specify more clear. My friend had the same year same make and same problem brought it back to dealer I think they changed a bad injector. Maybe there's a recall