1987 Dodge Ram Wagon B250 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Did you hook up a professional grade scan tool an check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes? You keep seeing the left rear turn signal is out message on driver panel screen. That's the DIC driver information center. Could be a problem with the TIPM - totally integrated power module. Chrysler TIPM Problems: Vehicle Symptoms for TIPM Failure (tipmrebuilders.com)

It might be the Timing Cover Seal. I'd had to have one replaced on a Pontiac Grand Prix, where oil had been spitting up from it, causing the Serpentine Belt to get oily and slip. The Harmonic Balancer had to come off to get to it. The leak on my car at the time had stopped after that seal was replaces. The tire had to come off, the plastic mud guards, too. Google Search had turned up some Timing Case Cover Gaskets that ran up to around $20. Another site had turned up a Timing Cover Seal for around $7. Autozone sells those parts, too. That could be the part he had been talking about. Not positive. Perhaps the local parts store could advise further.

try this link copy and paste https://www.fixya.com/cars/t3667173-need_diagram_firing_order_97_intrepid https://www.fixya.com/cars/t1682556-firing_order_intrepid_1995

use handheld scanner you can buy one at Harbor Freight for $39.00 or go to autozone and have it scanned., Walmart $19.00 Codes are OBll and are available online free https://www.autocodes.com/ https://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-chart

If the engine light is on then clear the codes and test drive it.

The following are some of the most common causes of the P0508 code.

• The Idle Air Control, or IAC, motor harness could be shorted or it could be open
• The IAC can also have a bad electrical connection due to the motor circuit
• The IAC itself could be faulty
• Dirty throttle body bore

It sounds like the fuel filter could be clogged also other issues to consider i would suggest to hook it up to a OB2 tester you can go to advanced auto or oriellys etc and have them hook it up to try to see if you can get a code up!! sounds like it could also be your cps =cranshaft positioning sensor ,but take in mind when was the last tune up, fuel filter change and filter change as well ? hope this helps!!

online search ---dana 44 to 96 silverado ------- will reveal 100 s+ sites and videos

copy and paste link https://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1xcvg-98-dodge-ram-1500-3-9-someone-put-distributor.html

no info generic answer --common brake light is brake light switch --fuse -wiring -----------------------horn possible fuse -wiring--faulty switch--clock spring

bring back to shop and advise of problem most likely improperly replaced or damaged vent doors/actuator

Does all these symptoms happen at a particular time like morning or night.

Surely you can't miss it. It is a circular thing on a stalk on the side of the engine, unless someone took it and you just have a hole in the side of the engine? This is it https://www.ebay.com/b/Distributors-for-1985-Dodge-D150/33690/bn_87678698 lots of help here and on the images tab. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+dodge+d150+distributor+location ..

in the tank

HVAC QUESTION, ???? A./C not cold, can we have problem told first and not a blind out of context hunt? HVAC IN THE DASH IS THE EVAP CORE AND I BET IT IS NOT BAD. UNLESS COMPRESSOR EXPLODED IN SIDE. dodge says the variable A/C orifice tube provides improved A/C system cooling during city driving and when under heavy loads by controlling refrigerant flow through the two parallel flow paths integral to the orifice tube. Under normal loads, the refrigerant flows through the inlet filter screen, the fixed and variable ports and both metering orifices. As the load on the A/C system increases, the temperature of the refrigerant leaving the A/C condenser increases, which causes the bi-metal coil to expand and restrict the flow of refrigerant through the variable port of the tube. Restricting the flow of refrigerant through the variable port and its orifice provides a greater pressure differential between the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system, resulting in colder refrigerant vapor traveling through the A/C evaporator to help remove the heat from the conditioned air flowing into the passenger compartment.The A/C orifice tube is not serviceable and the A/C liquid line must be replaced if the orifice tube is found inoperative

This is most likely the mechanism inside the air blower unit has a problem. There is a mechanical flap inside the unit that changes the air flow direction. The part that move this flap may have failed. Sadly this is one of those jobs. It is up behind the centre of the dashboard so you might need to remove the centre console or some of the dashboard to get to it. A lot of work.

magnum? a RAM 1500 pickup, i guess magnum is engine jargon? well it is not really stuck in reverse (well unless is. blush) but 99%^ of the time that means the clutch is 100% dead. learn this trick have a buddy wiggle the truck on say flat garage floor, (no brakes set) jug it forward and reverse the whole car and you wiggle the shift lever to N see it does N. the box has hard cut gears and synchro dogs. and if under pressure huge the shifter level sticks. all manuals do that, with a dead clutch. can do it. do not gorrilla the shift lever or wreck the gear dog forks inside. box. fix the clutch. the clutch actuator is dead,. never replace any clutch first gee my 4wd is 15 hard hours labor to that and I never do , unless MUST/ the best plan on any 22 year old car/clutch is a new master cylinder and slave kit. first and learn now to bleed, clutch lines, that are a horror to do . ok? the fluid in the lines run up/down verically and the air bubble float up,. making bleeding super hard and confusing to many . there are tools that make this easy , Pressure bleeding kits. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+1500+pickup,3.9l+v6,1366578,transmission-manual,clutch+master+&+slave+cylinder+assembly,10290 we make sure this is working first. 100% full stroke or the clutch is useless. and locked up fully engaged. at the least it must be bled fully. off all air.

If the gas gauge of your 2007 Dodge Nitro R/T always shows a full reading, there could be a few possible causes for this issue:

1. Faulty fuel level sensor: The fuel level sensor is responsible for measuring the amount of fuel in the tank and sending that information to the gauge on the dashboard. If the sensor is malfunctioning or stuck in the "full" position, it will consistently display a full reading on the gas gauge.
2. Wiring or electrical issue: There might be a problem with the wiring or electrical connections between the fuel level sensor and the gauge. If there is a loose or damaged wire, it could prevent the accurate transmission of fuel level data to the gauge.
3. Instrument cluster malfunction: The problem could be with the instrument cluster itself, where the gas gauge is located. If there is a fault in the cluster's circuitry or display, it may cause the gauge to always show a full reading.
4. Gauge calibration issue: In some cases, the gas gauge might be improperly calibrated, resulting in it always displaying a full tank. Recalibrating the gauge might resolve the issue.

To address this problem, it is recommended to take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic or an authorized Dodge service center. They will have the necessary diagnostic tools and expertise to identify the exact cause of the issue and perform the required repairs. They may need to inspect the fuel level sensor, check the wiring connections, or evaluate the instrument cluster to resolve the problem.

v6 engine not told, let me guess that. ok easy v6 means 3.7 L (226 cu in) magnum v6 I have 3.7L in my jeep. mine is 2010 the service manual covers all this, buy it or rent it? not told which bank needs offing/ left or right. well all engine work here, is top down, and what you see in the way must come off but not told the goal, ??remove the valve cover,you never said that. just disconnect or remove to get to it( just touch the cover that?) just use a hand stethoscope.(held to all places there)??????????? the service manual , this page, called rockers covers. asks LEFT or RIGHT first ,so I toss the coin and land on left drivers side USA left, is LHD driver. side

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect injector connectors and unclip the injector harness.
4. Route injector harness in front of valve cover.
5. Disconnect the left side breather tube and remove the breather tube.
6. Remove the valve cover mounting bolts.
7. Remove valve cover and gasket.

now right.(called in USA LHD , passenger side) RIGHT SIDE

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Drain cooling system, below the level of the heater hoses.
4. Remove accessory drive belt.
5. Remove air conditioning compressor retaining bolts and move compressor to the left.(tie it back gently) no hoses OFF !!!
6. Remove heater hoses.
7. Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
8. Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
9. Remove oil fill tube.
10. Unclip injector and ignition coil harness and move away from valve cover.
11. Remove right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
12. Remove valve cover retaining bolts.
13. Remove valve cover and gasket.

this answer is for only removal to just touch it , is between step 1 and what ever it takes to do you you never told yet. or use youtube, how to remove cylinder heads, so see all steps to where you want to be. (less sure)